Installing Ball Joints

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Scott, good news on the ball joints and let's just hope the other side is as easy.

Let us know how the "bleed" test on the brake line goes. Not that I have any pithy and insightful suggestions, but just curious. If your brake line nut is really rounded, well, the only option at that point is vise grips. Or replace the flare.

-Bryan

[ScottB]

Scott, good news on the ball joints and let's just hope the other side is as easy.

Let us know how the "bleed" test on the brake line goes. Not that I have any pithy and insightful suggestions, but just curious. If your brake line nut is really rounded, well, the only option at that point is vise grips. Or replace the flare.

-Bryan

Yes i should be done the drivers side today. Then test the lines.

I researched flaring and it does not look that complicated, and i figure i have enough line in the wheel well to get another flare on it. If i can cut it short which i think i can.

I will update when all is done. I am going to post another question in tech about the wheel bearings. In researching, and inspecting mine, i don't have the snap ring that goes between the inside race and the seal. Likely it has not been there for some time. lol.

Going to throw it out there. Otherwise all systems go.
Thx
Scott

[greenspider]

Bayless has a special flair nut vise grip (Irwin brand). Back to a previous question, which flair is used? Also, are SS braided hoses worth the effort? Thanks Greeny

[ScottB]

Bayless has a special flair nut vise grip (Irwin brand). Back to a previous question, which flair is used? Also, are SS braided hoses worth the effort? Thanks Greeny

Thanks, i have been googling grips for small tube. I will check out Bayless. I am just learning flares but it looks to be a bubble flare.
I doubt SS braided hoses will be worth the effort, especially considering I may have a leak now, but they do look good. lol I will report back on how the brake upgrade goes and the difference in braking power and peddle feel.
Thanks for the Bayless recommendation Greeny.

[greenspider]

Also on Amazon for less ($12).

[ScottB]

Also on Amazon for less ($12).

Thanks. I will be buying a set. Got some other stuff from Bayless to order as well.
This site is fabulous for all the help i have gotten. Really amazing the access to all the parts as well through a number of businesses.

[SteinOnkel]

Bayless has a special flair nut vise grip (Irwin brand). Back to a previous question, which flair is used? Also, are SS braided hoses worth the effort? Thanks Greeny

Nope, not even on our track cars do we use these. Provided that the stock routing is all in place and not chafing.

In fact, most SS braided hoses have one serious drawback: they are made of Chinesium and the rubber liner inside them fails. You then get a leak that you can't really pinpoint easily.

Also @OP a proper functioning brake system on a 124 should feel every bit like a modern car. Firm pedal, no play and ready to make your head nod or give the steering wheel a smooch at a moment's notice. Also, it should be impossible to lock up the rears.

[greenspider]

Thanks Steiny - Wow, my 40yo brakes with original hoses work as you described. Perhaps I should leave well enough alone - nah, new rubber it is. Greeny

[davidbruce]

The flares on these are in fact bubble flares. Not all that common so you may not find a flaring kit at your local store. You can get a reasonably priced one in the OTC brand off Amazon. If you are just learning I would recommend buying a standard 3/16"line from your auto parts store, cutting off the existing double flare and practicing a few flares on it to get the hang of it. You won't have a lot of line to play with on the car. Make sure the replacement line nut is the correct thread pitch. Off hand i don't remember the diameter but have seen 2 different pitches. I believe some of the nuts the vendors are selling have a larger hex than stock which helps reduce the chance of rounding. If you don't already have one, a proper tube cutter is a must. When it comes to rubber parts on these cars. If I don't know the age of it I like to replace it. Don't forget the rubber hose that runs from the centre of the rear axle to the hard line on the body. I had one on my 73 that was almost completely plugged and was causing the rear brakes to stay on.

[RRoller123]

+1, It took me quite a few practice tries to get this somewhat obscure flare done exactly correctly, with a kit from Amazon or elsewhere. And cutting the line without an included angle, and cleaning the edges of the line are very important.

Pete

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Scott, here's another thought I had. At least on my early spiders, it is possible to remove the brake line from the master cylinder to the passenger side wheel well. This can be done with the engine and such in place, and although it does involve some slight bending of the brake line, and numerous different rotational angles as it comes out, it is possible.

Putting a new bubble flare on the end would be considerably easier with the brake line on the workbench. If it doesn't work out, you could always bend an entirely new line (or take it to a place that can copy your original line).

-Bryan

[RRoller123]

That is exactly how I did mine, pulled it and prepped it outside of the car. It didn't fit exactly back in, I had a hell of a time getting it back into the firewall clips, think I missed one, but it is absolutely fine. You can actually process some of the minor bends while installing it.