Body Rust and Paint

Keeping it sharp - paint, wax, detailing, etc.
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yap123
Posts: 100
Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:39 am
Location: Irvine, CA

Body Rust and Paint

Post by yap123 »

The section below my front grill is rusting. Any advice on sanding, priming and painting it? What grit and type of sand paper? Where can I get the paint to match the Avorio (cream/ivory)?

Thanks,
Clint
Paingrin

Post by Paingrin »

I work in a bodyshop so maybe I can answer your questions. First, it depends on how bad the rust is. Any big holes? if so you'll need to grind the rusted area or even cut it out and weld in metal to replace it. fiberglass may also work for small areas. Those things take equipment and some training. It's usually better to have a shop do this for you unless you have the tools or want to try your own hand at it. Practice will make perfect.
On the other hand if we're talking about surface rust you can probably do it yourself. First sand the area with a 40 to 80 grit paper. get as much rust out as possible. if you are using a power sander try not to hit the adjoining areas.
when the rust is sanded use a rust converter (spray or brush-on). It neutrilizes the rust. Permatex is one brand I know.
Sand the rust treament so the other materials will adhere to it. Next up is body filler, otherwise known as Bondo or puttycoat. If you have any dips in the body you may need to apply some. Hopefully not. Follow the instructions for mixing it then trowel it on only where it's needed. Hand -block this with progressively finer paper. Start with 80, then 120. Make sure to feather the edges.
When you're done with the filler or if you didn't need it you're ready for primer. Two-part filling primer is best for this. Four or five thin coats or until the area is completely covered.
After the primer is dry you can block it down. 320 to 400 grit is good (by hand). When you're done is when the area is smooth with no defects and all the edges of the primer are feathered out. If you see defects sand the primer down and apply more coats. After that you're ready to paint. Better yet have a shop paint it for you. Any good shop can paint the primer areas and blend the rest of the panel so it matches better with the rest of the car. Also any good paint shop will be able to colormatch your car. Don't even bother with a shop that can't get an exact match for your paint.
I know this ran on but hopefully you get the idea of what's involved. Is it any wonder body shops charge an arm and a leg? Anything more I can help with PM me.
mdrburchette
Posts: 5754
Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
Location: Winston-Salem, NC

Post by mdrburchette »

Paint and body work is definitely an artform and can be expensive. We used to have a bodyshop but paint, materials and disposal got so high and customers don't understand what is involved.
yap123
Posts: 100
Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:39 am
Location: Irvine, CA

Post by yap123 »

Thanks, it just surface rust and it's not visable unless you bend down under the front.

Clint
So Cal Mark

Post by So Cal Mark »

Clint,
how did the top and clutch job turn out?
fiater

Post by fiater »

an auto paint store can match your paint using your paint code ( mine is under the hood ) and then adjust it for fading. I've never tried blending, so I just paint the panel and live with the results. my cars aren't show cars, they're drivers that pass the "six foot rule" (if they look good from six feet away, they're fine)
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