Just running bad (Video attached)

[BartusCompater]

Hey y'all. To start, I just want to say I really appreciate your help and support. I've posted a few threads here in the past couple weeks (relating to the timing belt, oil seals, and a part needed) and all of the help and advice has been really great.

Today I was just hoping to receive some general advice. My 81' has been running really poorly, and after a long overdue timing belt change, new front oil seals, tune-up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter) the problem has not been solved. I wanted to post a video just to see if anyone has any knee-jerk reactions as to where I should start looking.

Here she is: http://youtu.be/rwqiNNO2eJg

P.S. You might notice that it's really loud and angry sounding. That's because the muffler fell off a while back. Low on my list of things to take care of right now though!

P.P.S. I have inspected the AFM flap-it has been backfired onto before and so is slightly warp but isn't sticking at the moment.

P.P.P.S. I would like to check my ignition timing using a timing light but I can't seem to find any timing marks on the cover where they're supposed to be (on the bottom near the crank pulley). I don't think they're there. Frustrating.

[rlux4]

The 2 liter engines don't have the timing marks on the cover any more, there's an indicator bracket mounted above the crank pulley with three points on it, 0,5 and 10°.
As far as it running rough, pull the plug wires one at a time and see if it makes a change in how it runs. If you find one that makes no change check the condition of that plug, wire and that position of the dist cap. If they're all OK, check compression on that cylinder.
Ron

[BartusCompater]

With that timing bracket on the 2 liters I noticed that it is adjustable (you can slide it up and down because the bolt holes are oversized), I'm worried that timing isn't going to be exact because of that. Is that bracket supposed to be slid all the way to the top or bottom, or is it just a guessing game?

[azruss]

the timing mark should rotate on a pivot and bolt tight on the other point. I've never seen one with enough play to alter the timing more than a 1/2 degree. You would have to dyno your engine to see a difference in that small of a change.

[azruss]

watched the video. sounds like it is firing on all 4. may want todo a general tune up (plugs, cap, rotor, wires, etc). check your mag pickup in the dizzy and see how the wires and the gap look.

[narfire]

If the plugs are NGK, make sure the porcelein is not cracked.(I've had 3 over the years that were out of the box pooched) Turn out the lights and have a look under the hood when the car is running.Any arcing? My car is not running exactly perfectly at the moment. I found a loose exhust manifold bolt...quieted the engine noise. Found a leaking brake booster that was allowing unmetered air into the intake (check hose connections with a propane plumbing torch without flame ) Found the clearences on the valves were out from spec... when all is done then have to re-set the throttle position sensor.
Are all the injectors workng well, rubber seals in good shape? no fuel hose leakes? fuel filter in good shape?
As mentioned the timing mark is just under the water pump. I'll put a dad of white paint on the crank wheel cut and 10 deg btdc mark on the pointer.
When the crank is at the TDC mark, are the cam wheel holes lined up as close as possible with the raised ribs on the front end of the cam towers? One tooth out will still allow the car to run but not the same power as when all is lined up as close as possible.
Chris

[BartusCompater]

Narfire,

It has new plugs, a new fuel filter, no leaks or bad hoses on the fuel injection... things I haven't checked include valves, timing, etc. Don't have the timing light any more but will keep everyone updated.

[JConnerly]

Incorrect valve adjustment will make this engine idle poorly but I'm not sure if would be as rough as yours sounds. One thing that will cause the FI cars to barely idle is a bad connection on the temp sensor that connects to the T that comes out the front of the engine between the cam towers. Another guy posted a video last year and his engine sounded like yours when he pulled the connector off of the sensor. Make sure that connector is in good shape and that there is no corrosion or broken wires.

[wizard124]

Try wiggling the wire and plug at the connector to the AFM. I wrapped mine with electrical tape to offer protection because of a crack in the protective boot. This caused a short or a bad connection which caused the engine to run rough and throw carbon soot out the tailpipe. Once the tape came off, the car ran fine.

Maybe yours isn't seated properly after your inspection of thr AFM plate?

[76was124]

I am no expert, but sure sounds like a timing problem....so this is a stretch, but if you've check'd everything timing and AFM related, you could try unplugging the electrical connector on the cold start injector after the engine starts. Maybe it is not turning off and running rich?

Sound like it runs better at higher RPMs, what happens if you unplug the vacumm advance hose from the distributor, do you notice any change at the higher RPMs? Is it worse? If so, would indicate timing is retarded,

[BartusCompater]

Hey y'all,

I appreciate all of the input. I ended up taking the car in to a mechanic who I trust and who happens to own 2 Spiders. He found that the auxiliary air valve needed replacing, and popped a used one in. They also inspected the timing and it was spot on. The car runs better than it ever has now.

[dmwhiteoak]

Good deal. Glad you have the issue resolved.I'm learning alot about FI spiders and dont even own one. Oh well, maybe someday.

[BartusCompater]

After giving it a few test-drives I've found that now it randomly dies when I come to a stop. Doesn't always die, and when it does it starts right back up. Always something...

[rlux4]

Two things you may try checking; the setting on your throttle position switch and that the flap of the AFM is smooth throughout it's range of movement.
Ron

[BartusCompater]

I've never delved into the throttle position switch, how would I know if it's positioned incorrectly?