Need a new clutch in the spring, so....

[Kingme2]

Obviously I'll need a clutch kit. I push pretty hard, would I need a "performance" clutch kit (some guy named "Mark" selling one on ebay )?

Any other "if you're going to have THAT off you might as well buy a new ..." advice?

Love a lightened flywheel, but will likely be limited budget... what do they charge at a machine shop? Or better to buy one predone?

Wisdom, advice, source for free parts ?

[narfire]

I bought a couple of clutches from Lordco. They sold Beck Arnley and so far has stood up well. Complete kit with pilot bearing and had the alignment tool.
I believe I paid about $50.00 to have my flywheel done. I also had it balanced with the new engine I put in a couple of years ago.
I have a spare flywheel here. I'll ask my neighbour what he'll charge (usually installation fluid and a bit of $$$)
Chris

[azygoustoyou]

since your going to have all that apart, you my as well replace the pilot bearing and rear seal. Having the $3 clutch tool makes installation a breeze.
Mark is a good guy, call him and ask what he suggests.
http://www.allisonsautomotive.com/

[131]

OEM clutches are rated at significantly more HP/torque than you'll get out of these motors unless heavily modified. Jason Miller does lightened flywheels for $60, but you'll have to send him a core.

[vandor]

This is also a good time to replace the clutch fork boot that seems to be always torn. Definitely replace the rear seal and pilot bearing, both are cheap.

I got an aluminum flywheel from Miller's Mule. Most local machine shops can lighten and balance your flywheels. BTW, be sure they know there is supposed to be step between the friction surface and the mounting surface. I think it's 0.020"?

I use and we sell Valeo clutches, as they were OEM on Fiat. Used them on racecars and hi-po applications without any issues, and they also give a light clutch action. I used an aftermarket clutch once, and it was so stiff that it was a pain to drive the car. It came out after 500 miles...

[kmac33]

I have a Valeo clutch from AR and had my flywheel lightened per Jason Miller's specs (he is kind enough to post them on his site, so you can take his spec sheet to any good machinist). My motor is a moderate performance build and I am very happy with the "feel" of this set up.

[So Cal Mark]

I gotta disagree about the capacity of the stock clutch and also the pedal effort of performance clutches. Most of the stock clutches I remove have discs with center hubs that are completely trashed with broken springs, if the owner drives it very hard. Our performance clutches have more clamping power without increasing pedal effort at all.

[Autoricambi]

Mark,

Not to disagree to be diagreein' but.... have you really seen this sort of damage specifically on a Valeo unit? I have seen COME and other similar units come apart but never a Valeo.

I won my SCCA SW Div Nat Championship w/ a Valeo clutch with probably 2 seasons on it. I'm sure there may be better but Im sure we would both agree there are much more which are worse.

Just my 2 cents... But Csaba know more than I do.

Ramzi
Auto Ricambi, LLC

[seabeelt]

To make it interesting, Lets talk about tranny oil one more time

[Kingme2]

lol

[So Cal Mark]

Here are two pics, one a stock clutch disc, the other is the performance disc that I have made. One major difference is the strength of the disc. If you look at the stock disc with the red springs, I've used a small screwdriver to point out the very small amount of material that holds the friction material to the center hub. Compare that to the performance disc which is nearly solid. In addition, our center hub is much stronger and we use hd springs so that the center section holds up under high load engagement and heavy shock. While our standard perf disc uses a hd street friction material, the disc is sturdy enough for ceramic pucks, kevlar or any other racing friction material that imparts a higher load on engagement.

Our pressure plate has similar type upgrades to endure increased hp and high rpm and load situations

[fiatfactory]

.

[baltobernie]

Surprised that no one has mentioned the guibo; if you haven't replaced it during your ownership period, now's the time. I'd also spend another hour detatching the center driveshaft bearing, and removing the drive shaft. Six bolts or so in all. This will allow you to inspect the U-joints and bearing/housing. New ones will leave your shifter motionless at highway speeds. I had one leg of one U-joint completely dry, and never noticed it until replacing them "while everything was apart".

[Kingme2]

Thx, I'll add guibo to the list.

Car parked for the season (but... but... it's sunny this weekend, can't we get her back, just one more weekend??? )

Ordering parts now (spread the cost over the winter), then get them installed in the spring (spread the costs ... sigh)