New ignition switch, part 2

[cartoonstrips]

I purchased a new ignition switch for my '76 Spider;
I bought this car with a key broken off in the switch, and the harness was not connected to that switch.
So - the new switch makes a connection between "int" and "30" with the key out - that in itself tells me that the new switch is faulty but I wanted to run it by others first before I returned it.
My old switch (using a screwdriver as a key) does not make any connections with the key out.
If it matters - My connections are:
Black 30/1
Brown 30
Pink 15
Red 50
Blue and Blue/red INT
Green/black and gray INT (the fuel pump runs off of these, maybe other things, I'm not sure yet)

So - with the new switch and this wiring, the fuel pump runs with the key out, then goes off in the second position - and back on again towards the crank position - somethings not right, huh?
Here is the link to part 1 (with pictures)
http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7229
Thanks,
Jamie

[vandor]

Hi,

The new switch is wired totally differently form the old one.
Did the vendor not provide a wiring diagram??? It's kind of lame to expect the
customer to figure it out... Have you called them about this?

bye,

Csaba
Auto Ricambi
http://www.autoricambi.us

[tglancy]

I ran into the same issue when I replaced my Ignition Switch. There are a couple of issues with the rewiring for the new switch.

-One is the power for two circuits are now going through one set of contacts.
-Contact 16 needs to bypass the oil pressure switch to run the electric fuel pump and help startup until there is oil pressure. Many new switched do not have contact 16. The idea is to stop the electric fuel pump if the engine is not running (such as an accident)

I actually modified the internals of a new switch so INT and 30 are not connected in the off position. It is not too hard if you are skilled it that area. It required disassembling the switch and cutting the contact surface in the correct location.

[cartoonstrips]

After posting this, I did take the switch apart and it appears that it was meant to work this way - I think??
No wiring diagram was included, it would have been good to see one, it might verify if INT and 30 are supposed to stay in contact with the key out.
The attached picture shows an arrow pointing at the area that I think tglancy is talking about. In the picture there is no connection, but with the switch assembled and the key out, it does not rotate off of that area and remains in contact.
I thought maybe I could mess with the tumbler to get more "turn" out of it but I think I will try the other options mentioned here.
Thanks for the tips and for the confirmation that this switch is not defective - just re-engineered.

[tglancy]

To bring it back to original you will need to cut the contact pad. You will notice that INT and 30 do disconnect as the key moves from run to stop and then makes contact again.

You need to carefully cut the contact pad so in stop position that it disconnect from the circuit. Essentially it almost looks like the key turns too far. The contact area needs to stay in place so the contact can slide. The slit needs to be very small. I used a tiny amount of nonconductive epoxy to bridge the gap and ensure the pad is solid.

Put a meter on it and turn the key slowly to see what is happening by tracing the contact surfaces.

Write me if you need more help.

[pope]

I dont know why you didnt take the old ignition switch to a locksmith who would have extracted the portion in the lock and cut you new keys from it.

[cartoonstrips]

Thank you tglancy - this really helps.
pope - you are right, I wish I had done that, I'm new at this and figured I'd solve the problem as well as have a brand new switch for $70, didn't turn out quite like I planned.