newbie to the forum... with some elec. issues

[restonko]

Its the same rotor, maybe I just didnt describe mine that well. But you have a different rotor for sure. Mine is the same as the black and white diagram you attached. My cap is brown, but rotor is black and there is an indented arrow pointing opposite of the contacts. Maybe this picture will help:

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu35 ... /dizzy.jpg

So that just confused me if i should line up the metal with the tab on the distributor or the indented arrow with the tab.

[launieg]

I'm still not sure I understand you, but if you look at the bottom of the rotor (after removing the two screws and turning it over), you will see that it has a small square bump, which only allows it to be attached to the centrifugal advance plate (with the two screws) in one position. You don't have any choice. Apart from that, it has no particular orientation with the distributor - that is, it does not line up with anything on the distributor housing, because it spins around in the housing as the shaft of the distributor turns. But when you loosen the distributor clamp nut and turn the housing, the rotor stays still, and that changes your timing. I'm guessing you know that

Now, when you put the cap back on, be sure to look at the underside of it also, as it too must go onto the distributor housing in only one way (can't be reversed unless someone has messed up the bottom of the cap where it fits onto the housing).

My distributor is also identical to the exploded drawing - only difference from yours is my rotor is brown.

[restonko]

alrite, well i still havent tackled the distributor nut so i guess the timing is still the same. just wondering if i can get away with not resetting the timing cause i havent taken anything out. just replace the pickup on the spot.

But if it is really necessary, then i would do what this diagram shows:
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu35 ... timing.jpg

For our 2000CC engines, advance should be 10 degrees. So rotate the engine until the tab lines up on the crank wheel with the 10 degree tab. Then i guess i dont have to worry about the camshaft since that should be in sync with the crank.

As for the distributor rotor, what is the way to make it point to spark plug #4?

Just there is a tab on the distributor housing of mine, and i thought that was what is used to line up the rotor and cap to point to plug #4. Maybe that tab is nothing, just how the piece was machined from the factory.

Anyways, i guess when the crank is set at 0 or 10 degrees with the marks, then mark down where the distributor rotor is facing, so when its time to put it in, just make it face the same way as before. Is that the right way?

[launieg]

At this point, I suggest you just put in the new pickup (following all instructions), try to make sure it just clears any of the cams on the shaft, and don't move the distributor. With luck, the car will run good and you can take it to the mechanic for timing. You need to use a timing light with a magnetic pickup. Unlike distributors that use points, you can't do static timing like you are suggesting (if I understand you correctly).

The only thing that concerns me is that you make sure the new pickup just clears the cams - you don't want to trash it by having it wack a cam! So it would be much better if you loosen the distributor clamp, move the distributor body back or forth to make sure you've adjusted the pickup to clear the cams by about 0.5 mm (approximately the thickness of a matchbook cover) and then turn the body of the distributor back to where it was. With luck the timing was right to begin with and this would get you going.

[restonko]

thanks for all the tips Launie, I'll give it a go tomorrow morning, and let you know how it goes.

[restonko]

hey everyone! the car runs!

i put the new pickup in, and had another car give me a boost, and she fired right up. However, she wouldnt idle, so had to keep my foot on the gas. And i forgot to address the water outlet leak, since i was going to do it after anyways if it would actually start, afraid that i had to take the timing cover off again. Then it shutoff, not sure if it was too hot, or i let of the gas to see if it would idle then shutoff.

So i have to fix the water outlet leak, and get a new battery. Is my alternator still good? how can i check that? because the start of this whole story was that i put the battery in reverse.

Right now just letting it cool down and then will fix the leak. Hope everything is still good,and didnt screw anything new up in the process.

[launieg]

Great! Glad you have it "running". I can't answer the question about the alternator. Testing them is not easy for DIY. The reversed battery could have blown it I suppose.

Good luck with getting it sorted out.

[restonko]

thanks Launie for all your time and help ... just 1 more question.. it runs.. just wouldnt idle... is there an idling screw somewhere on the carb that i can adjust? and where exactly is it on the motor?

my battery is being charged, i get it back tomorrow morning. and i used Permatex gasket maker to seal the water outlet. Happy that is coming along, thanks everyone!

[launieg]

Sorry, mine is fuel injected, so I can't offer much help with the carbs. Hopefully someone else can help you out.

[restonko]

hi need some help again... my car runs as a described before, will bring to my mechanic to fix the timing and idling, once i have insurance on it.

But when i turn on the radio or the electric fan, the engine misfires or revs weirdly and wants to quit. Is there some bad grounding or wiring i can check?

Also, the car runs a bit hot. I think the water outlet is not leaking anymore since I used gasket maker to fix it. And the battery light is still on, even with the new battery. Shuts off when i turn the switch.

Thanks
Reston