Electronic ignition conversion

[TulsaSpider]

I have a complete electronic ignition on my newly acquired 79 parts car. It works, it fired it up on the first try on Sat.
I am assuming this is a much better choice for power, efficiency and reliability compared to my current points setup. Am I correct?
What would be involved in the switchover? I am not great with electricals.
Thanks for pointers!

[manoa matt]

Power and efficiency, probably. Reliability, maybe...depends on how old the "replaceable parts" are. The caps are about the same price, rotors are about $5. Other parts: Vacuum advance: $30, magnetic pickup: $30, controll module $15-20.

Take the spark plugs out, turn the engine over untill all timing marks are lined up with the engine at top dead center. Remove the old points distributor. Roughly line up the rotor of the new distributor to fire on #4 plug wire/cap contact and drop it in. Time the car at idle with the vac advance disconnected and plugged to 10 deg. BTDC.

You may want to check that the vacuum advance diaphram is still intact. Suck on the hose that comes from the vac advance housing with the distributor cap off and watch to see if the magnetic pickup moves. If you just suck a bunch of air then the diaphram is busted. The vacuum advance signal hose needs to be connected to ported vacuum. Its the small port on the drivers side of the carb above the throttle plate. Make sure when you mount the aluminum finned heat sink to the fender that there is clean metal to metal contact between the fender and the heat sink, as that is the ground path for the coil.

The only adjustment will be the magnetic pickup to rotor distance: .5-.6 mm Use a brass feeler gauge or a match book cover. Its a good idea to carry a spare controll module, cap, rotor, and mag pickup in the trunk/glove box. Electrical components are subject to the heat from the exhaust manifold and sometimes fail without warning.

[TulsaSpider]

Ok I can handle all that. One thing- control module? what is this? Is that inside the dizzy too? Electrical connections.. Does it just need a 12V switched just like the points? Wider gap for the plugs as well?

[manoa matt]

The control module is mounted to the fined aluminum heat sink behind the coil. The coil should be hooked up the same as the points coil. Brown wire goes to the negative side, and light blue/black wire to the positive side. Plug gap depends upon the plug gap specification as designated by the manufacturer. If you are using a plug that is sited in one of the various fiat manuals, then go with what the manual recommends.

I'm running the same electronic setup on my 78, but I can't remember if I jumped the ignition mode relay like you do when switching from dual to single points. I don't think it's necessary. I'll report back.

[So Cal Mark]

IMHO, I think the aftermarket kits are crap. And if you have to carry a complete duplicate system in the trunk as spares, does that spelll reliability? Not in my book. A simple set of points and condensor, with a high output coil works just fine and is cheap and easy to diagnose and repair

[mbouse]

i opt for the '79 setup if you spend the money on the consumables up front. put in a new control module, new cap and rotor, and a new mag pickup.

messing with points and condensor is older than old-school.

[kilrwail]

Mike - On my last birthday my boys (men) told me I'm now older than dirt. Is that older than old school? I've had points and condenser for the entire life of my car and only had one failure about 25 years ago when a set of points broke. I carry a used set as a spare and I've never had to use it.

[racydave]

Clark, if you opt for the switch ( you can always change back ) I would increase the gap, or compair what the 2L plugs are. I would also check the mechanical and vac advances before install. A new pick up in there would be good too. You might want to profile the current dizzy as to how much it advances and when for a good compairison. There are alot of modules offered including a GM replacment. Just dont lean over the fender with Kilts!

[TulsaSpider]

IMHO, I think the aftermarket kits are crap. And if you have to carry a complete duplicate system in the trunk as spares, does that spelll reliability? Not in my book. A simple set of points and condensor, with a high output coil works just fine and is cheap and easy to diagnose and repair

Mark, this is a Fiat electronic ignition setup I am talking about on the parts car I just got. It is a 79.

[TulsaSpider]

Clark, if you opt for the switch ( you can always change back ) I would increase the gap, or compair what the 2L plugs are. I would also check the mechanical and vac advances before install. A new pick up in there would be good too. You might want to profile the current dizzy as to how much it advances and when for a good compairison. There are alot of modules offered including a GM replacment.
Just dont lean over the fender with Kilts!

Ha! I'd never work on my car in my kilt, the kilt is much too expensive to get dirty!

[mbouse]

Mike - On my last birthday my boys (men) told me I'm now older than dirt. Is that older than old school? .

unfortunately, yes.

[NCArachnid]

This is great info. I too am planning this conversion soon as I recently got the '83 parts car, and Mark's unit is financially out of reach. Is there a way to test whether all those parts need replacing or should it just be done? The car fired when I bought it. Can I take it to Autozone for testing or will they just give me blank stares? I've read about people having to rotate the dizzy 180 deg to clear the flat hood in the early cars, is that just for the taller 2 L? Has anyone experience with this conversion on an early motor flat hood car?

[TulsaSpider]

If it works it works. Make sure the advance diaphragm isn't leaking. If it is you can replace it or leave it off. Replace the cap and rotor. They can fail without warning. See my post under "odd dizzy failure" Carry a spare control module in case of failure.
I have a spare setup if anyone is interested.

[NCArachnid]

Make sure the advance diaphragm isn't leaking. If it is you can replace it or leave it off.

Just got my order in for new ignition tune-up bits and while I had the distributor apart noticed the diaphragm is perforated. I thought of leaving it off but it appears to me that the advance plate flops back and forth without being attached to the advance rod. Am I missing something? It doesn't seem like it would work correctly like that. Talk about variable timing. I will probably order the new advance with my next order, but would like to get it installed and running before my next order. Should I just reinstall the advance and leave it unhooked? I feel like I'm overlooking something obvious here?

[TulsaSpider]

I just left it. No ill effects as far as I can tell.