My '76 so far....

[reidyyz]

Exactly what I did. I got new screws and tap from Bolts+ (hardware superstore in Ontario) all in $20, so after that, it's all going to go back together. For the record, it is a 3x0.5mm thread. And I'm replacing the throttle cable as well.

I am curious: i have a plastic/phenolic spacer between the mid and bottom section of the carb, but also on the bottom where it sits on the intake manifold. The drawings I have show the upper one between mid and bottom, but not on the base. Saying that, the rebuild kit seems to be missing a gasket as it only comes with one base paper gasket. Stacked as an assembly it would be in this order:

1 top piece of carb
2 paper gasket
3 middle piece of carb
4 paper gasket
5 spacer
6 paper gasket
7 bottom piece carb
8 paper gasket
9 spacer
10 paper gasket. (missing)
11 intake manifold

Spacers 5 and 9 are completely different in shape, gasket 4 and 6 are identical and pre-cut to match spacer 5. Gasket 8 pre-cut to match spacer 9 where gasket 10 is not part of the rebuild kit. Is spacer 9 an after market, p.o. install? Again, just curious as I'm going to cut myself a new gasket 10 anyways.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Is spacer 9 an after market, p.o. install? Again, just curious as I'm going to cut myself a new gasket 10 anyways.

I think the order that you have for the spacers/gaskets is the most common configuration. As to whether spacer 9 is aftermarket, I think some people put them in to insulate the carb base from heat (from the intake manifold). As to whether you need gasket #10, I think that depends on what kind of material spacer #9 is. If it is a hard (phenolic) plastic, then a paper gasket #10 is probably a good idea. If #9 is a compressed (hard) fiber material, then #10 may not be necessary.

I haven't answered the question very well, but I think the answer is this: If the spacers are in good condition and a compressible material that will seal up the surfaces, then additional paper gaskets are probably not necessary. If the spacers are worn or a hard plastic material, then a paper gasket will likely help with sealing.

Also suggest checking the flatness of the carb mating surfaces with a straightedge. It's not uncommon for them to warp. Mild warping can sometimes be corrected with a sanding block with 150 grit sandpaper or thereabouts. If the warping is severe, a new part may be required. Warping of the intake manifold surface is rare.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

I haven't answered the question very well.....

Yes, you did. It is plastic/phenolic and i already ran it over with a piece of 320 grit to smooth out the dips and peaks and will be cutting my own paper gasket from a bulk stock I have. The old paper gasket was a pain to remove (slashed my hand, bordering on stitches) and the 320 grit cleaned it off real nice. Based on my previously stated starting problem, the spacer used for better heat dispersal makes the most sense. I'm glad that this is another thing I can reset the clock on and not worry about for some time.

[reidyyz]

Well, topless season is around the corner the carb isn't back in yet and that's okay because there's no wheels. I have the rims out for powder coating. As they're the aforementioned two-tone cloverleaf and not the fanciest, but I like the look and suit the current state of the car. I got a verbal $800 for the two tone silver/black plus mounting and balanced, they should be ready in about a week.

[reidyyz]

Well, I was late in the game getting the car on the road this year, but did get it out for a short trip along a nice tree lined street that stinks of money. 9 kms out, 9.1kms back. I guess on the turnaround where I actually had to use the brakes, unknown to me, my frt lh caliper seized and I started noticing the burning smell, but committed to getting it home 5 kms away. The rim was superhot to touch and it boiled the grease out of the inner bearing. So, the plan now is: replacing the calipers all around with new flex lines and new front bearings. I giggled the hubs and found no play, but figured I'm already in there, I'll zero time the bearings so it's one more thing to add to the "reliable and don't need to worry about it anymore" list with the brakes.

Question: the optimum brake fluid to use is it still DOT 3? Doing a search gets a lot of opinions, mostly conflicting.

Thanks,
Henry

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Hi Henry, DOT 3 and DOT 4 are glycol based, and compatible. You can use either, and DOT 4 has a slightly higher boiling point (which is good).

DOT 5 is silicone based so you cannot use that in the Fiats. Don't mix DOT5 with DOT 3 or 4.

I use DOT 4 for my cars, but I used DOT 3 for decades without issues. Other than the usual Fiat stuff of course.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

Sorry for the delay and as always, thanks Bryan for getting back to me. I haven't been home much lately and I have also been waiting for my parts from Vicks and now just waiting until I have some vac time coming up to really get into it.

Thanks,

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I'll be around if you have a question.

-Bryan