Column Washer pump switch

[TX82FIAT]

Folks, I know pulling the washer stalk towards the driver activates the washer pump circuit on the 82 spider. I've bench tested my washer pump and it functions fine. My wiper motor works just fine as does all the functions in the column switch with the possible exception of the washer pump activation switch. The wiring diagram looks like switch 03703 controls the washer function. I think I lost my memory as I do not recall the that when you pull the washer stalk towards you it activates the wiper motor to sweep the window as the fluid squirts out. I think it just squirts the fluid. Can someone confirm the proper function? I use the washer pump.... um... never. I was considering installing a bypass switch rather than buy a new column switch as a temp solution. Would that best be done installing a switch from the yellow black wire to the green black wire? Assuming I have both brown wires coming off of the 8 amp fuse 2-B. I'll check that as well.

Thoughts? Thanks, Ray

[spider2081]

I'm thinking pulling back on the stalk will energize the pump only. It does not turn on the wiper blades

I believe there is a single spade connector under the dash near the steering column switch connectors that connects a green/black and a gray black wire together, The same yellow/black wire that powers the wiper motor powers the pump switch. So if the wipers work the power is at the switch.
Checking power at the green/black to gray/black wire connector checks the switch operation.
The steering column switches wires have a ring terminal on them at the switch end. This ring terminal is fastened to the nylon housing with a small hollow roll rivet. The roll rivet becomes the stationary electrical contact. Over time they become loose and intermittent. This is the cause of many headlight issues whit these switch assemblies.

[TX82FIAT]

Spider2081, thanks, that is right along the lines of what I was thinking. I may be a little off on the gray/black as that appears to run through the wiper motor, 2 intermittent circuits and speed control. In theory, I should be able to power the green/black with a switch from yellow black avoiding gray/black all together. This would be in line with the pump only operating the pump and no windshield sweep when pump activated. If a direct connection (jumper) between yellow/black and green black turns on the washer pump when I start the car It would have to be the column switch.

[spider2081]

I should be able to power the green/black with a switch from yellow black avoiding gray/black all together.

I know better than to trust a wire diagram 100% but The diagram i'm using shows the green/black wire from the washer pump switch connects to a gray/black wire behind the instrument cluster. The gray/black wire passes through the firewall to the ares of the driver side ground cluster. Here it connects to the wire from the washer pump itself. I don't think you can eliminate the existing gray/black wire without installing a new wire, from your new switch, routing it through the firewall to the pump wire.

[TX82FIAT]

Follow up and conclusion. Did some testing of the column switch last week and determined I had power into the switch and was able to jump the circuit making the pump work immediately after the column switch. Started taking the switch apart to rebuild and re-rivet and realized I would just need a new switch. Ordered new column switch from Auto Ricambi, arrived and installed on Saturday. Washer mechanism is working again. And... I now have the added bonus of the turn signals disengaging when I complete a turn.

[spider2081]

Started taking the switch apart to rebuild

I have taken a few apart and repaired them. This is not a simple task. very tedious and time consuming. When done it still looks old and never sure the repair will last long enough to be worth while. I think you made good decision purchasing a new replacement.
Great that everything works now.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Ordered new column switch from Auto Ricambi, arrived and installed on Saturday. Washer mechanism is working again.

Awesome, and given the price of a new switch assembly, I think you made the right decision. In my case, because the switch assembly for my '69 and '71 spiders is vastly more expensive, I drilled out the rivets, took it apart, cleaned it up, and reassembled with some combination of 2-56 and 4-40 machine screws and nuts. I "rebuilt" the assemblies on both cars in the last 6 months or so, and so far they work great with a very solid feel to them.

So, a rebuild can be done but I agree with spider2081 that it is tedious and probably not worth the effort if you can find a NOS replacement at a good price. Also, I sense that the earlier switches (such as mine) come apart easier than the later model years.

-Bryan