95 amp alternator conversion

[Robertglab]

I just picked up the 95 amp alternator from autoricambi and the old one had one stud that had three terminal connectors on it and one blade connector. The new one has a stud type connector that I'm assuming the three terminal connectors go to and a small blade type connector that is probobobly the same as the old one. But there is a three wire connection coming out if the new one as well. I'm just curious if anybody else has Done this. My plan is to connect the three ring terminals to the stud connector and the blade connector to the blade and just leave the three "new" wires un connected.


Any advice?

Rob

[majicwrench]

Advice?? YES, call the people you got alternator from!!!! I would NOT just go hooking up wires unless you truly know what you are doing.

[Robertglab]

Thanks majic, the autoricambi site has undoubtably sold a few of these, I was curious if anyone has done the same conversion.

Rob

[4uall]

I did the same. Mine came with instructions and it is plug and go. Call them, they are awesome

http://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php ... alternator

[Robertglab]

Thanks jay

[4uall]

[nalle]

Why do you want to use 95 A alternator?
Do you have some extra load (subwoofer or amp. etc)?
If you have and you really need 95A, then you have to make also ne wires between load and alternator.
If you do not have any extra load, only thing what you get is alittle bigger fuel consumption.
I have nothing against bigger alternators, I'm just curious why to use them.
Normally bigger alternator do not make any problems. Maybe voltage regulator is not so accurate, but the battery is very good load balancer. But If you really need the full capacity of alternator then you might get problems with wires.

[spider2081]

I agree unless someone has installed some high current draw items the stock 65 amp alternator should be ample. I have found a few cars voltage regulators are set close to 13.5-13.7 volts which by today's standards is a little low. Replacing the regulator with one with a 14-14.5 set point makes a big difference in alternators performance. I have not checked but would expect the 95 amp alternators have a regulator set point close to 14.5 volts.
Maybe someone who has made the conversion could measure the cars voltage when the engine is turning about 1500 rpm and post it.
Also from looking at other cars batteries it seems lots of Fiat owners skimp o battery size. I would buy biggest battery that fits in the box. Usually bigger size means more amp/hour rating.

[nalle]

Yes you are right and there is mind , if there are differences between the voltage regulators.
Have you done any reasearch about voltage regulators compatibility between two different Bosch alternators?
Regulator is quite easy to change and if you get alittle bit higher voltage then it is worth of it.
It even might be possible. Regulator is quite simple piece of electric and if brushes are same size I do not think that there will be any problems. Field current is any way quite small.
Maybe I have to look some where bosch catalog...

[spider2081]

This is not manufactured by Bosch but so far has been working good

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LP ... UTF8&psc=1

[vandor]

> Why do you want to use 95 A alternator?

It is rare for someone to actually need 95A. However, an alternator is not able to put out its max rated amperage when the engine is idling or is at lower rpm, so a tired, stock alternator may not be up to the task when several accessories are on.
The stock alternator has not been available new for quite some time, so when you get a reman unit the chances are that it has been rebuilt several times already. I doubt that helps its reliability. The 95A alternators are brand new.

And lastly, the 95A units put out about 1 more volt than the "lazy" Bosch ones, so everything works just a little better: the fans and wipers are faster, the lights are brighter. I've had a 95A unit for over 5 years and I can't imagine going back to a stock unit. Most people I have talked to who have installed a 95A unit have been impressed.

[nalle]

Yes I agree that new altermaror is new and it should be better than old one.
But if the alternator is otherwise ok, then it is possble to just change the voltage controller to get higher voltage level (as Spider2081 told). On the other hand is it always good to raise the voltage level.? I tried to find L-Jertonic specs to see nominal operating voltage levels, I did not found it .L-Jetronic is so old system that I really do not know how the computer internal voltage levals are regulated (is there an internal regulator or do they use only alternator regulator). Problem is that higer internal voltage levels (higher than nominal) will shorten the life time of the computer.

The max Output current with low rpm. I agree. Alternator operating curve (quit commonly) shows that with 4000 rpm (alternator rpm) it gives app.90% of its nominal current (200rpm eq. idle app. 50%).Spider has quite big belt wheel in alternator, about 0,5x crankshaft belt wheel => 90% will be reached at 2000 rpm (motor) is that enough or not, I do not know it depends the usage. Anyway output voltage is not depending on rpm. Voltage is what makes light brighter and motors running with higer speed.

Maybe I think it little bit too theorical way. You have shown in practice that bigger alternator works and gives you good results.
And that is good to know.

[johndemar]

Rob, did you get the wiring resolved?
If you had an external regulator that will factor into the equation as well.
I put one in over 5 years ago and don't regret it at all, everything works better.

And I agree, Csaba and Ramzi are top notch guys, if the instructions didn't come with the alternator, they will walk you through it.

[spider2081]

Also agree new is the best. Hope my previous comments did not sound like I was disagreeing with upgrading where needed.

An alternator only puts out the current that the car is demanding at any given time. So normal day operation the car is probably asking for less than 20 amps. Night operation around 35 to 40 amps. Regardless of the alternators capacity 65 or 95 amps it supplies what is asked up to about its rated value.

When installing equipment in small aircraft we had to calculate the total continuous current draw to be sure it did not exceed 80% of the alternators rated output. So for a 65 amp alternator we would not want continuous draw to exceed 52 amps. I don't think with everything being used in a stock Fiat Spider that number is reached. The time it could easily be reached is if the battery is dead and the car is jump started. The battery will ask for a huge amount of current and the alternator will put out as much as it can to satisfy this demand.
My wire diagram shows a #8 wire connecting the alternator to the starter solenoid. I have found on a couple cars a wire that is closer to a #10 wire and this wire has been burnt or over heated. I think the overheating of the wire happens after a car is jump started. I would check to be sure the wire between the alternator output and the starter solenoid is a # 8, or better yet, a #6 wire for a 95 amp alternator. This will better assure the alternators full output is reaching the load.

[obdulio39]

I just put a 95amp alternator and when I turned the lights on the car stalled. gave it more gas to compensate but when I turn the lights the rpm drops 200. so what could my problem be? it did it with the old alternator but it was minimal.