Radio dies at 2000 rpm's ??

[riderrich]

Hi everyone. I have a some what stumper,

When I first start my 1980 fiat, I have to let it sit and run for about 1 to 2 minutes and then I have to gas the pedal to keep it from quiting for another 2 to 3 minutes until wormed up after that it is fine. But my other issue is that if I have the radio on while waiting for the engine to worm, If I step on the gas pedal and go over 2000 rpm's, the radio shuts off until I go back down under 2000 rpm's. But once the engine has wormed up the radio down not shut off. Has anyone else had this issue or now what I should be looking for?
The radio is hooked up to the cigar liter
I did the brown wire surgery.
from time to time while driving, If I tap the brake, the car dies and I have to turn the key back and forth several times. to get it started again.
Please help. Thank you.

[DMECMAnderson]

Sounds like you are having similar problems to what I've been experiencing. See "Headlights Killing Engine". I spent a lot of time trying to find what in the end I believe is a bad ignition switch. In my car '81 all the current to run the switched systems, runs through the ignition switch. If found that over time the switch would overheat, that caused the voltage to drop to the coil, killing the engine. I tried a new switch, which worked for some time, but even then that switch started failing. Frankly, it's a bad design. I ended up changing to use my switch to control some relays. This finally seems to have fixed the problem of getting sufficient current and voltage to all the components, including the coil.

You need to patiently run through all the wiring, make sure you have good grounds everywhere. Make sure you have solid connections in all your connectors. Try some contact cleaner at the connector at the ignition switch. As you drive if your connectors get very hot to the touch, that's a good warning sign that those connections are not well mated.

I noted that you are having other electrical issues. I'm an engineer and assumed the worst, It's usually something simple, bad grounds, bad contacts, etc. Check all the simple stuff first before you start swapping parts. I learned the lesson the hard (and expensive way).

[rlux4]

Rich, The '80's could be either, is your car FI or carb'd? The warming up issue has different causes for each. The radio cut out is a puzzler, have you checked the major ground strap under the car?
Ron

[mbouse]

senstive radio. requires minimum voltage, which I bet lunch you are not getting at the extreme low rpm. in the early spring cold weather i have this issue; idling too low when the engine is cold. lights, radio and satellite receiver all grabbing what few amps are being delivered...the radio cuts out.

the cut out at 2k rpm .. is that the ONLY symptom? i am betting there are other telltale signs of issues lurking. is the engine stumbling as well? check the connections at the top of the coil. REPLACE those spay connectors.

Like Ron, I forgot if you have a carb or F.I. if Carb'd...check to see if the idle solenoid is functioning, or even hooked up.

[riderrich]

It is FI. The radio only cuts out until the engine worms up, and also I can not keep the engine running unless I feather the gas pedal until wormed up, then everything works fine after about 3 to 4 minutes. but today I reeved the engine pretty high and the radio cut out even at wormed up conditions. it only lasted about a half mile and then started working correctly again.

I need to check the grounding from the bell housing, I keep forgetting that.
The white connector at the ignition switch only gets hot when the head lights are used. And I did perform a brown wire surgery last week.
I kinda think it is the ignition switch also, sometimes I have to wiggle the rubber boot that goes around the ignition switch to get the inside lights to come on berfore starting it.
Thanks for all the help with this electrical.
I will keep everyone informed as to what I have found.

[rlux4]

I've experienced two things that may apply to your case Rich. Have you slid the boot off the back of the ignition switch to check that all the wires have solid connections. (I know you had it off when you did the brown wire surgery, did you check then) Also, the metal connectors inside the white plastic housing can slide back in some cases. Separate the white connector and push each wire in on each side to see that they are all seated in well. I just replaced my ignition switch because it was doing a similar thing as yours. Every once in a while, I'd have to move the wiring harness (just a very slight movement would usually do it) to get it to start.
Good luck,
Ron

[bradartigue]

Change the voltage regulator. Works wonders.

[rlux4]

Brad, do you mean to replace the voltage regulator with a new one, or a better one? If you mean a better one, do you have a recommendation?
Thanks,
Ron