
So I am guessing this is not a good thing. When the car is off, I can pump up the brakes, but the pedal still moves after 6-8 pumps. As soon as I start it back up it is right back to really soft brakes.
Thoughts? Do the lines just need to be bled?
http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... &sk=t&sd=a4babycar wrote:I am by no means an expert but after overhauling my brake system this past weekend, I think that you can bleed your brakes single-handedly in about an hour and a half including the wheel removal and installation, jacking, etc. I had help but I tested the theory and it seems to work just as well without help too, just not as efficiently.
I used the method described in the Factory Fiat Service Manual. This method uses a segment of clear tubing (standard air tubing for a fish tank - $1.50/8ft at Walmart) and new bottle of brake fluid and and another bottle/container filled with a couple of inches of brake fluid (I used the near empty bottle of the fluid that was knocked over earlier in the day.). Cut about a 2.5ft segment of the tubing and force one end over the end of the bleed screw and place the other in the container with the small amount of brake fluid, making sure the end of the tubing in the bottle was completely submerged. Now just barely crack the bleed screw and start pumping the brake pedal. Air and fluid escape through the screw and into the tubing and finally into the bottle. As long as the other end of the tubing stays submerged in the other bottle of fluid, air cannot return through the hose back into the caliper. If you have the jar jacked up, as I did, there will be and gentle arc made by the tubing from the caliper down to the bottle. This arc in the tubing is important if you are bleeding yourself. Air bubbles rise to the top of this arc and remain there until they are forced out of the bottom of the tube. If you are doing this yourself. Pump the brake and then check the tubing if you can see any bubbles left in the tubing you need to keep going. If there are no bubbles and the fluid is clear then you can close the bleed screw and remove the hose. In order not drip brake fluid, pinch the tube at the top of the bleed screw and hold vertically above the other end in the container and gradually release pressure, excess fluid will drain into the container and you are off to your next caliper.
That is what I was doing. Still waiting for the seal kit, but at least now I can bleed the lines and maybe get out for a cruise.pluktv wrote:Or do what I did and just keep topping up the fluid for a summer. It was the tiniest of weeps. Problem was that the brake fluid splattered onto the rear wheel and took the finish off. Not good.![]()
All for the sake of a less than $10 rebuild kit and an afternoon.
Totally! Still waiting on the new seal but got the car up on the jack stands last night ready to fix as soon as it comes in. I am going crazy not being able to cruise.BEEK wrote:the worst part is where there is a weep, there is potential for complete failure. just would not want to take the risk of driving a car and all of a sudden have absolutly no brakes. especially when it could have been prevented
I thought you was going to say, wife and kids in the car waiting loljclarkey wrote:Part arrived earlier this week, caliper remove (after an hour and lots of cursing) and the wife and kids are out of the house tomorrow! Time to get this leak fixed! Miss my car!