1969 Spider, No spark from coil

[Nomorewhiskey]

Hi All,
I'm new to this forum so kindly bare with me if I don't do everything just so.
I'm having trouble with a "no spark" problem on my old Spider. The car quit running and had no spark. I checked to find voltage at the coil and have 12 Volts on the + terminal with the ignition on. When I couldn't get output from the high tension hole, I figured the coil was bad and replaced it. Put the new one in and still have no spark.

To make matters a little more confusing. My Spider had a motor transplant done long before I ended up with it. The current occupant of good hood space is a pushrod motor from a sedan. The motor is marked 124.2 and 4177174 on the block.

Thoughts from anyone who has encountered this problem would surely be appreciated. I'm doubtful that I could have replaced my bad coil with a brand new bad coil. I've overlooked something.

Thanks in advance!
Nomorewhiskey

[bradartigue]

Wiring diagram:

http://www.artigue.com/fiatcontent/wiri ... 9_1973.pdf

To the coil +B you should have a light blue/white wire with +12V
From the coil D you have a brown line running to terminal 50 on the tachometer rear
From the coil D you have a wire (it was originally black but are often yellow) to the distributor

Your original coil would have had an external resistor, most likely your new one does not. Therefore do not use the external resistor if the new coil is internally ballasted.

Confirm the wiring is ok and then re-post.

Note that FIAT was kind of ... artistic ... in applying their own engineering standards to wiring colors, so you might have a different color wire. Voltages and direction matter, the color may be different for your specific car.

As to your engine...replace it. A 60 HP engine in a car designed with a 98HP motor kind of stinks. A 1438cc or 1608cc will fit right in that sucker and you will then be hauling the proverbial ass.

[majicwrench]

Two posts almost back to back folks changing their coils with no help. Coils almost never fail.
If car ran with old coil put old coil back on, that way you don't have to worry about resistor you may/may not need with replacement coil.
No spark is likely issue with points. Check with voltment OR test light on - side of coil, key on, engine off. Then crank engine and see what coil - is doing.
Keith

[Nomorewhiskey]

My thanks to both responders.. as a first time poster, I am so happy to have found such a wealth of information. Special thanks to bradartigue for wiring diagrams and the link to so much more information.

I should have mentioned in my first note that I was driving the car when it stopped running. Of course, it stopped on a four-lane late at night. My wife had told me to please put the tow-rope in our Jeep so she wouldn't have to look for it if I didn't make it home. I had been putting the car back together for several days so I was sure I wouldn't have problems... turns out my wife might be a better judge of my mechanic skills. Calling home for a ride was more fun for her than me.

I have eliminated the resistor and wired according to the recommended lay-out. My 12 Volt wire is green/black stripe but all else was as stated. Thanks for the tip that wire colors might vary. Haven't had a chance yet to turn over the engine to see if I have spark as the battery now has problems. But thanks to majicwrench, if I still do not have spark, I'lI know where to look next. I'll re-post as soon as I know more.

Thanks again!

[So Cal Mark]

the resistor is needed with points to prevent them from burning rapidly. Have you turned the engine with the dist cap off so you can see if the dist shaft is turning?