Motor is out

Make it go fast! Kick it up a notch. Post tips in here.
Post Reply
basarabam
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:56 am
Your car is a: 1980 Spyder 2000
Location: Alabama
Contact:

Motor is out

Post by basarabam »

Well I got my motor pulled this weekend, I think the starter was the hardest part of the job, that top bolt could make a preacher cuss!! I still need to pull the clutch and pressure flywheel then get it mounted to my motor stand so I can pull the heads and roll it over to take the bottom end apart.

I can tear down and rebuild a car with stock components, but when it comes to performance, I am at a huge loss for knowledge. I know this doesnt take much to just take apart and put back together, hence why I am looking for the advice from guys that have been there, done that.

I could really use some advice on this build. I have been advised on a book, Guy Croft, but when I looked for it on Amazon it was $400... Not so much...

I know I will need to make decisions after it is tore down to see the wear on the cylinder walls and bearings as far as over sized pistons and undersized bearings, so the size in diameter isnt an issue, yet, but in regards to compression and lightening the crank and flywheel, advice on where or who to get this done by? Who have others used for pistons, rings and bearings? Can I get ordering/contact information?

What do I should I be looking to do to the head? I have seen some talking about larger valves and I have to admit I am a loss on where to start looking for these parts and what direction to give the machine shop.

I am not one with the fantasy that I will be dragging 200+ HP out of this little beast, but a little more spunk and a groovy growl is always a bonus.

I have talked to Mark at allisons about cams, intake, electric ignition, and exhaust, so that is covered, even though as far as the cams go, I still dont know what I need. I would assume I need to make sure that the valves and the cams work well together, other wise will be a lot of wasted money.

I would love to get rid of the manual fuel pump and put in like a Walbro electric, is there a cap to cover the fuel pump spot and will it hurt anything to leave it out? Where do I find one?

I have seen pictures of other's motors and they have the front ugly yellow cover removed which looks SOO nice, can the shroud behind it be left off also? Will this hurt anything?

What parts should be balanced?

Can anyways suggest a vendor who can be contacted that can lend advice and have the parts to back it up?

I know these are a lot of newb questions and people are going to sigh, roll their eyes, and say, geez another one wasting our time, for those I am sorry, for those that answer, thank you so much, your experience is more valuable that I can express.

While I collect this advice I am going to tear out the dash and start re-wiring the whole car, it is pretty nasty and I want it looking decent.

I am going to redo the whole grill area to make it look a little meaner and fabing some mounts for projector headlights and some custom LED tail lights that I have already started. I am more of a mod and fabricating person that a performance mechanic.

Thanks to all that can give a hand,
Matthew Basaraba

1980 Fiat Spider 2000
MNspiderman

Re: Motor is out

Post by MNspiderman »

if you want to see some pretty pictures go to http://www.midwest124.com
basarabam
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:56 am
Your car is a: 1980 Spyder 2000
Location: Alabama
Contact:

Re: Motor is out

Post by basarabam »

Ok, I guess I will have to send them the bill for a shorted out laptop now, the drool destroyed everything! :D

VERY NICE! I will see about giving them a call, and check pricing and services!

Thank you so much!
Matthew Basaraba

1980 Fiat Spider 2000
User avatar
manoa matt
Posts: 3442
Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii

Re: Motor is out

Post by manoa matt »

Don' bother with crank lightening, if you want to lighten the flywheel talk to Jason Miller of "miller's mule". Pistons, bearings, internals, and othe parts: go to Autoricambi.com For the head: stock size valves, 3 angle seat cut, and porting and polishing will be a good bang for the buck. Big valves will require more money, more machine work, with little overall gains unless its an "all out"/race motor.

Any of the manuals will cover in detail all the teardown and rebuild aspects of the head and engine with specifications, you found Croft's old book. He's written a new one with much more information and its a bit cheaper. Go to guycroft.com if you realy want to drool.
Mathew26

Re: Motor is out

Post by Mathew26 »

So something shiny and powerful is what you're looking for?

Image
basarabam
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:56 am
Your car is a: 1980 Spyder 2000
Location: Alabama
Contact:

Re: Motor is out

Post by basarabam »

Mathew26 wrote:So something shiny and powerful is what you're looking for?

Image
In the bottom right hand corner, is that a fuel filter with a glass bowl???? The whole thing looks amazing but that especially caught my eye!
Matthew Basaraba

1980 Fiat Spider 2000
basarabam
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:56 am
Your car is a: 1980 Spyder 2000
Location: Alabama
Contact:

Re: Motor is out

Post by basarabam »

manoa matt wrote:Don' bother with crank lightening, if you want to lighten the flywheel talk to Jason Miller of "miller's mule". Pistons, bearings, internals, and othe parts: go to Autoricambi.com For the head: stock size valves, 3 angle seat cut, and porting and polishing will be a good bang for the buck. Big valves will require more money, more machine work, with little overall gains unless its an "all out"/race motor.

Any of the manuals will cover in detail all the teardown and rebuild aspects of the head and engine with specifications, you found Croft's old book. He's written a new one with much more information and its a bit cheaper. Go to guycroft.com if you realy want to drool.
Hey I appreciate all the advice. I tried going to Autoricambi.com but it is in a language I cant read. Is there something specific I should be clicking on?
Matthew Basaraba

1980 Fiat Spider 2000
htchevyii
Patron 2022
Patron 2022
Posts: 1807
Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:31 pm
Your car is a: 1982 Spider hers 1972 Spider his
Location: Hydesville, CA (NorCal)

Re: Motor is out

Post by htchevyii »

Trey
Image
1982 SPIDER 2000, 1964 CHEVYII, 1969 Chevy Nova, 2005 DODGE RAM, 1988 Jeep Comanche
1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,
User avatar
TulsaSpider
Posts: 1547
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:33 pm
Your car is a: 1978 Spyder 124 2L
Location: Tulsa, Ok

Re: Motor is out

Post by TulsaSpider »

All these things have been discussed at length before. Make sure you search them out! I am going to do a 2L build this winter myself!
1978 Spyder 1800 make that 2L! Finally making real progress!
fiatfactory
Posts: 506
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:22 pm
Your car is a: 1970 128

Re: Motor is out

Post by fiatfactory »

.
Last edited by fiatfactory on Tue Jul 02, 2019 1:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
nothing to see here... move along.
basarabam
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:56 am
Your car is a: 1980 Spyder 2000
Location: Alabama
Contact:

Re: Motor is out

Post by basarabam »

Hey Steve, great reply thank you!

They power is negotiable, if I wanted a racer I would have finalized on my Lotus instead of saying I would rather have this little cruiser. The extra power would be nice, but I am not banging my head against the wall or taking on a second job to do it. I am looking to stick a total of about $10,000 into the car which will include my body and paint, interior and motor. I think that gives me reasonable funds to give it a little extra juice, and still acquire a nice sound.

I really liked the dual carb setup I seen and HEARD from Allison's Automotive and the headers and exhaust from them. The electronic ignition is something else I want to look at from them also which I will need while I am building the motor.

Right now I have about 3/4 of the motor torn down and labeled and ready to start cleaning. I will need to take it to the machine shop before I can figure out what internals I will need. After I figure out how much machining it needs, then I have to decide on cams and valves I guess. Is it bad to go with the stock size valves? I guess I mean, the cost versus the gain worth it?

Still trying to figure out where to get the bearings, rings and pistons. I think I had seen people post about vick's has some slightly higher compression? or maybe it was some midwest124? One of the places I looked only showed a .06 over sized piston, didnt really want to bore it out THAT much but if I have to I guess I will.

Just hard knowing where to start, guess getting the block looked at so I can get more specific which parts I need. still trying to track down this guy croft book. Hopefully I will find one for under $400. Lol
Matthew Basaraba

1980 Fiat Spider 2000
baltobernie
Patron 2020
Patron 2020
Posts: 3466
Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:00 pm
Your car is a: 1973 Spider [sold]
Location: Baltimore, MD

Re: Motor is out

Post by baltobernie »

:idea: Check your rear crankshaft journal for a groove left by an unrepaired rear seal. I did not, and my new motor leaks. I tried to find a thin sleeve to fit this journal, but no luck. If you need to get a salvage crank, now's the time, not after :cry:
basarabam
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:56 am
Your car is a: 1980 Spyder 2000
Location: Alabama
Contact:

Re: Motor is out

Post by basarabam »

baltobernie wrote::idea: Check your rear crankshaft journal for a groove left by an unrepaired rear seal. I did not, and my new motor leaks. I tried to find a thin sleeve to fit this journal, but no luck. If you need to get a salvage crank, now's the time, not after :cry:
Yeah I noticed the rear seal was leaking. Havent pulled the crank out yet, I got the whole top end off and arranged. I am having one hell of a time trying to find an hex to fit the oil plug. Biggest I got is a 10mm, looks like it might be a 12.

Thanks for the heads up!
Matthew Basaraba

1980 Fiat Spider 2000
So Cal Mark

Re: Motor is out

Post by So Cal Mark »

the larger valves will really only help above 5k rpm. If you're going to build a motor to make good power above that range plan on the right cams and valve springs.
As for Crofts' book, he has new updated books for sale on his site now for about $130. It's a really nice book with lots more info than the original book
Mathew26

Re: Motor is out

Post by Mathew26 »

Hey I just saw your kindof question about pistons sizes. Just wanted to let you know that yes we have .4, .6, .8, and 1mm oversize pistons. And they are the 9.8/10:1 pistons with 8mm domes.
Post Reply