ADHA to DFEV carb/manifold swap on '79

[wetminkey]

I'm sorry to say that I just got lucky that the used intake manifold that I bought already had a factory three port vacuum fitting and a smaller port installed. I removed the smaller one for a cleaner look, and just used the three port.
If your manifold does not allow for other vacuum ports, you could "T" off of the distributor's vacuum hose for the tranny,...
34 ADF will be nice. The hoses to your existing 1979 28/32 ADHA will attach in exactly the same way to your 34 ADFs' water choke., supply coming from your new manifold's coolant outlet nipple.
I've been down the "suspension/steering/bearings/brakes" road with my Spider long ago, now. So I can relate! It has not been on the road much since I bought the car in 2000,...now it's performing quite well and I only need to complete dash, upholstery, and paint.
Best of luck with your swap, volske!

[wetminkey]

Final note on the DFEV,...it has an electric choke, but I guess I am the fast idle control.
And with my electric fuel pump, I DO NOT step on the throttle to open the choke (too much fuel),...I simply turn the key. Starts right up,...I just need to start my 'fast idle' pedal pressure as soon as it begins to run. I 'fast idle' for about fifteen to thirty seconds, and it's ready to idle normally. Of course, this is with summer temps,...I'll learn and adjust as cold weather comes on.
Todd.

[DustyDave]

Todd,
Thanks again for your posts in this thread, very helpful with pics and details!
A curiosity question referencing the pics in your second post ... the new IM has a port on the top center of the IM, engine side of the carb port between cyn’s 2 & 3. You also show the device that I believe goes there in the same pic, that has two hose connections and NO electrical connections? I believe sensor side of the device is exposed to coolant. My car had the same thing, but nothing connected to it. Either PO disabled it, or hose disintegrated since it was parked near 30 years. The hose barbs are broken as well. I removed it and plugged the hole in the IM. Not sure of what it is or what it did? Best I can guess is maybe related to the coolant choke system, but does not make sense to me as the purpose it serves... a way add heat to the already hot coolant???
Again, just the curious engineer in me more than anything, but hoping someone know what it does.
Thanks,
David

[PaulC]

#1 in the photo I presume. That's for a thermoswitch related to the emissions system.
Plugged in mine since that's no longer functional.

[wetminkey]

Thanks, Paul.
And I understand PERFECTLY, Dave. I'm no engineer, but only because I hate math,...I design and engineer all the time. I always demand explanations and understanding of full system functions,...it helps me decide whether to restore, or alter, factory systems,...
I hoped to be a mechanical engineer, but ended up retiring from many years of Operating Room nursing,...
I turn wrenches now,...for fun (?).
See my present collection listed in my signature,...(it does not include my '42 B and '56 420 John Deere tractors)! Collected over thirty years,...

[DustyDave]

Thanks Paul and Todd,
Your comments helped... I took a closer look at my Haynes manual (emissions system schematic on p.202) and associated description... this thermo valve opens at a certain coolant temperature to allow vacuum from a port on the carb (mine is 32 ADFA) to activate the EGR valve. So it disables EGR when engine is still cold which makes sense. There is another electric thermo switch mounted on the bottom of the IM in same coolant passage to control air pump flow to the exhaust. As you stated, Nice to understand the emissions system, so I know what should stay, or in this case go. Thanks again for the good exchange of info, appreciated!
Thanks,
David

[wetminkey]

Just FYI,...heard this from other members before, and found it in my new carb.
CHECK YOUR FLOAT LEVELS. Upper and lower,...piercemanifolds.com has the info on what the measurements should be, and how to set them:
https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/317.htm
My float levels were seriously off,...
New carb from Redline,...You would expect the float to be set, since the extensive installation instructions do not mention float settings, nor do they give settings and instructions to set the float.
Todd.

[wetminkey]

Redline Weber has updated DGV/DFV float level settings.
18mm from gasket to top of float, and 23mm from gasket to top of float. Needle movement should be limited to only 2mm needle travel.

[wetminkey]

Only problem is - those cannot be the proper settings for the DFEV. The DGV and DFV series have different float settings, per parts diagrams on Redline Weber,...
Maybe that's why my car does not run,...!
I've emailed Redline,...

[wetminkey]

And I'm amazed at the gibberish that I got back!
Must be holiday parties going on at Redline Weber,...

[geospider]

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/317.htm

this worked for me

[wetminkey]

Same link that I posted on August 15.
Car ran worse with these settings than it did with the DFEV's original settings,...brand new, Spanish-made, Redline Weber, bought in March.
18mm gasket to top of float and 2mm of needle travel (about 23mm gasket to top) is where mine is set now, per the latest Redline Weber literature.
Too cold to start, set timing, and tune a fresh carb right now. I'll have to wait for warmer weather.
Thanks, geo!

[Royd]

Wetminkey- Could you explain again how you addressed the water line from the old choke?

[manoa matt]

Royd,

You have two hoses coming up to the automatic choke. One connection is next to the #4 runner on the intake manifold. The other is coming off the water pump heater tube and goes behind the cylinder head over to the carb. Take the hose that leads to the water pump tube and connect the now free end to the intake manifold port.

[Royd]

Todd, Thanks for your quick response. I am about to tackle the carb swap this weekend.