Recently bought a '72 with the 1608. I never checked torque on the wheel nuts and it turns out most will not hold even 40lbs. Old bolts are shot, stripped to all hell. Bought new bolts and am doing better; now 2 at 50lbs on most wheels. Took a good look at the whole picture.
The bolts seem to be too short, by about 1/4". Think this is why they were stripping initially as only about 1/4 inch seems to be going into the threads. The threads in the discs also seems shot.
Solution. I could wire insert each hole or replace the discs. Seems that OEM discs are pretty cheap and readily available, but there also seems to be some upgraded options available for disc, calipers & pads. I am thinking that when I start to dismantle what is there, I am likely to uncover a can of worms so am leaning towards biting the bullet and replacing the whole shooting match, but with OEM or upgrade?
I am looking for recommendations and/or reviews of some of the options out there.
Thanks in advance.
New brakes on a '72
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131
- Posts: 672
- Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 1:13 am
- Your car is a: 1982 131 Superbrava warmed 2.0 litre.
- Location: Tasmania, Australia
Re: New brakes on a '72
There are no threads in the discs. If the bolts are too short, get longer ones.
Mick.
'82 2litre 131, rally cams, IDFs & headers.
'82 2litre 131, rally cams, IDFs & headers.
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So Cal Mark
Re: New brakes on a '72
right, the threads are in the front hubs and rear axles, not the discs
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Onlinebobplyler
- Patron 2022
- Posts: 823
- Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:58 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 spider 2000
- Location: Charlotte, NC
Re: New brakes on a '72
I know a guy who was replacing the front disks on his chevy truck. He told me he took
the wheels off, the caliper bracket, and tried pulling the rotors off.
They wouldn't budge.
He got out the big hammer, and started whacking it.
Still wouldn't come off.
His son pulled one of the new disks, and pointed out that the hub was part of the disk.
the wheels off, the caliper bracket, and tried pulling the rotors off.
They wouldn't budge.
He got out the big hammer, and started whacking it.
Still wouldn't come off.
His son pulled one of the new disks, and pointed out that the hub was part of the disk.
1979 Fiat Spider (since new)
2005 Lincoln LS (the wife's car)
2003 Chevrolet Cavalier (daily driver)
1999 Honda Shadow VLX 600
1972 Grumman Traveller 5895L (long gone).
2005 Lincoln LS (the wife's car)
2003 Chevrolet Cavalier (daily driver)
1999 Honda Shadow VLX 600
1972 Grumman Traveller 5895L (long gone).
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Stevelivingfree
Re: New brakes on a '72
thanks guys. Have been loath to pull it apart as once apart things rarely go back together as one expects.
Longer bolts still only gives me 2 good bolts on each wheel.
Inserts or replace hubs?
Longer bolts still only gives me 2 good bolts on each wheel.
Inserts or replace hubs?
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DieselSpider
- Posts: 2130
- Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel
Re: New brakes on a '72
Your call on spending about $150 for new front hub kits (hubs are about $50 each plus the cost of bearings, seals, etc) while I am not sure on the back however it involves pulling the axle shafts and if pulling the hubs also replacing the bearings, seals, etc or going with inserts.
Some might go with inserts or having a good welder tack weld some high grade nuts to the back of the hubs and go with longer bolts. On the rear axle with the spacer on the hub there is nothing to really keep the rims accurately centered on the hub aside from the two alignment pins and the 4 bolts.
Some might go with inserts or having a good welder tack weld some high grade nuts to the back of the hubs and go with longer bolts. On the rear axle with the spacer on the hub there is nothing to really keep the rims accurately centered on the hub aside from the two alignment pins and the 4 bolts.