Installing a new top is/was a new adventure for me. I am proud of the way my top came out. Passing on my lessons learned


I didn't take any photos as I was taking the frame and top off the car in preparation of getting it painted. Start by removing the rear seat bottom followed by the back. This allows access to the rear trim plate and side panels. Removal is straight forward. There is a rear anchor bar that holds the rear edge of the top. Loosen the 5-6 screws and slide this retainer up to work the rear edge free. Loosen the cable clamps and pull the wire free of these clamps. There are 2 frame mounting screws (allen head) on each side. I had large fender washers fitted between the frame and chassis. Remove these screws and the frame with top is ready to be removed.
Separating the top from the frame: As my fabric had rotted, the top was not attached to any of the bows. Otherwise, the bow wraps would need to be cut. Pry open the small cable guide on each side to remove the cable. Pry (or cut, if new cables are to be used) the cable loop from the anchor pin at the front of the frame. Remove the front trim screws, to remove the trim piece and the rubber gasket. This gasket may be glued down, so pull carefully. At this point, the only part of the top still attached is the leading edge glued to the front of the frame.
The chrome molding in front of the quarter window have 3 screws holding each to the frame. You will need to remove one of the frame pivot bolts so that you can gain access to remove these. My frame was in very good shape. I simply scraped off any glue residue from the bows (these will be recovered later). I washed the frame with Simple Green and water then rinsed. The SEM 39143 is a fast drying paint. I simply placed the frame over a large drop cloth and rattled away. You need to open/close and flip over the frame as you re-coat so you don't miss any areas. I used an entire can in the process.
Based on the shop's recommendation, I ordered from topsonline.com



Ordering on-line, be sure to ask for installation instructions by filling in the remarks window

I found these instructions to be very helpful. I won't re-print them here but I will add some pointers.
I ordered new cables from AR. The pull strings (that the instructions state are included) were not there. I found that inserting the cable loops from the rear hole and pushing it forward works best.
Use a helper when gluing the top to the front of the frame. Gluing can be a messy process so you will want someone to control the top as you paint on the contact cement. Equally important as you fit the cover over the top's outer corners.

I used Weldwood. Let this set up overnight.

The chrome trim is best cleaned up when separated from the frame. Here is a picture showing the rivets and weather stripping. I reinstalled these after the top had been fitted and the front glued. Install the moldings and check for fit. I ordered new rubber from AR. These needed to be trimmed slightly shorter . When ready, line up the new rubber, poke an awl through the upper and lower rivet holes in the molding to get your pattern. Remove and punch holes in the rubber (I used a leather hole punch). Re-install and use a pop rivet tool. I used 1/8 inch rivets with a washer on both sides. I then pulled the new rubber back a bit and applied a bead of black silicone along the concealed edge of the chrome piece.


Picture showing the rear anchor bar and cable clamps:

Have the bow plastic covers clean and ready to install. After using the contact cement on the bow and fabric, let it set for 10 minutes or so before you wrap the fabric. Snap the plastic cover in place to hold the wrap in place.

I stripped the old interior front frame cover and replaced it with vinyl. In my case, it matches my home made visors.


Finished look:


