Drilled / slotted rotors

[paintdudeluke]

Its about a time for a brake job. I was seeing some drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pad packages online and was curious how big a difference they make. I'm going to rebuild the calipers so while I'm in there it seems smart to swap in better parts. I can't imagine they don't make a difference, besides they do look cool.

[TX82FIAT]

About 4 years ago I had to rebuilt the entire brake system from the master cylinder all the way to the rotors. Not because i wanted to but because i had to. At that time I ordered the drilled and slotted zinc plated rotors along with ceramic pads from some site on e-bay. There was a package deal for about $95. I dont recall the vendor but for the price i figured I'd give it a try. I can tell you the brakes work great and i have had no issues in four years or about 10,000 miles. They do look cool and I have even considered painting the calipers red. No noticeable signs of wear, no uneven braking and they fit perfecly with stock hub and caliper.

Again, I had to replace everything except the brake booster and rebuilt the calipers. This car does brake much better than the previous Spiders I've owned. IMHO, they are cool but for truly improved braking a dual piston caliper would be best and also much more expensive.

[htchevyii]

I have heard that drilled rotors are more prone to cracking. I haven't had any issues with mine, but the slots do cause a noise when braking. Not sure I would buy them again.

[MrJD]

I have heard that drilled rotors are more prone to cracking. I haven't had any issues with mine, but the slots do cause a noise when braking. Not sure I would buy them again.

I heard that also, but I ran them on my old Celica... and I ran it HARD with no cracking at all.

[AndyS]

on our cars, drilled rotors don't make as much sense, because the holes go through the single layer disc to pads on the other side. drilled makes more sense on cars with two layer rotors (like most modern cars have) i got dimpled rotors instead, and have been very happy with them. BTW, Stop Tech now makes their street pads in a 124 size, part number 309-00541 for the front of our cars. They are amazing pads for the street with very high friction compared to most. I think these cars need help in the braking department, so they are a great choice for improved stopping power without going the full $$$ brake conversion route. They make a little more dust than ceramic pads, but its worth it. they are not noisy.

[divace73]

The cracking is true, I had brembo slotted and drilled. I didn't beleive it at first but I'd did happen, one of our suppliers here in oz have gone to dimpled to solve the problem. I have heard the cast holes are suppose to be better ???? I have slotted only o. The front at present.
Just a note , good pads with fresh good brake fluid should be ample for most applications

[paintdudeluke]

Ordered all new hoses, caliper rebuild kits, drilled/slotted rotors & pads + a 3way block to eliminate the proportioning valve. Looking forward to seeing how much better it will stop. Right now its pretty weak. The front left pulls hard and wants to lock up and the rears stay stuck on half way if I really stand on them. They were all locked on the rotors when I got the car and wouldn't even turn. I got spooked the other day going into a corner pretty hot and they didnt want to do their job so its time for a full redo.

[MrJD]

Why are you replacing the proportioning valve? Where are you getting the caliper rebuild kits? Take pics in the process... Id like to see it.

[TX82FIAT]

Smart move.... IMHO it starts with stopping. I can't tell you the number of pretty spiders I've seen that don't brake for beans. As a side note, my ceramic pads used with drilled and slotted rotors have never made any noise. I may just be lucky..

[paintdudeluke]

Why are you replacing the proportioning valve? Where are you getting the caliper rebuild kits? Take pics in the process... Id like to see it.

I am not confident in the condition of the valve. I've never had one on any sports car and been fine. Also, with the suspension work and wheel /tire combo I'm going with I feel pretty comfortable that all 4 will stick like glue to the road. I got the hoses/rebuild kits/3way block and bleeders from midwest. I might do a photo session when I do the brakes. I just don't have a place to dump all the photos to link here and its a pain in the ass to post. The rotors and pads were from EBAY and should be here in a few days. I'm getting the ro;;bar and exhaust done next week too. These projects come together pretty quick for me. I low-buck where I can, but having a shop and booth and also the experience of having built too many cars to mention its just another job really. I just hate waiting for it to be done so I can just drive it and stop having a list to do.

[MrJD]

Lol. I bet we bought the same rotors and pads. Going to be a month before I install mine though.

[MrJD]

My rotors and pads are in. Didn't realize the front and rear rotors were the same till I looked them up on Autoricambi (same part numbers there).

These are from cbrakes on ebay. I think i bought a set of his once in the past for a toyota and was very happy with them then.



They are zinc plated... and not going on anytime soon.

Should I re-build my calipers? I plan to get steel lines.

[paintdudeluke]

I have the same set on my bench with caliper rebuild kits and all new hoses. I'm hoping I can do it in under 6hrs, but you never know what's going to happen. I'm soaking everything with PB the day before so everything comes loose without too much trouble. I'd do the calipers because mine hang up and I think the hoses are shot. The rears hardly work unless I really stand on them , then they are stuck on about 60% for the rest of the day. Sounds like swollen hoses to me, but calipers should release nicely and sticky pistons ruin the fun. Total redo for this one. I think all was under 200-

[MrJD]

where'd you buy your caliper rebuild kits?

[paintdudeluke]

where'd you buy your caliper rebuild kits?

Midwest, they were under $20 for all four.