Weber 32/36 DFEV Upgrade: Game, but Ignorant

[opus10583]

I can see the light!

Received the 8mm ball-stud, s-bend in the linkage rod, full rotation on the throttle shaft, throttle cable set so the pedal stop is the limit of travel, idle mixture and speed dialed in over an afternoon of tracing shorelines in the reservoir area of Westchester county; and woo-HOO! ...There it is!

Here's what's left:

1) The binding fast idle linkage issue seems rather to be a misaligned linkage element, the fast idle adjustment screw is cocked from the plane of the fast idle cam. Tweaks are pending.

B) There's an awful lot of oil build-up on the crank breather tube fitting and lid of the air filter housing; I haven't a clue, what's in that vapor separator?

Thanks,
Mark

[opus10583]

Come on warmer weather, I've still got mine setting on the bench waiting to be installed.

These have been very active posts (about the 32/36) & I think any questions I may have had have been answered for me.
You gotta love this site, seems most times when an issue arises there has just been a post about it & all I have to do is read to get the answers.

Let us all know what you think of this new carb compared to the old, performance wise.

Hi Don,

Again: Just DO it. ...<$300 all-in and an easy afternoon at that.

My Baseline: 7/77-build 1978 49-state CS1 with emissions-gaming BS absent, Petronix Ignitor, stock 4-1 drainpipe manifold feeding a parts-store-sourced exhaust system having seen better days.

First, get a pre-75, 4-2, exhaust manifold, I don't think it matters much which. Get an 1598/1756-block pre-75 2-1 downtube - this matters.

You will notice a flatter, fuller torque curve. You will experience free-er, if not truly free, revving. (I also replaced the previous owner's exhaust cobble with a full NOS Abarth exhaust at the same time, an ANSA rear section should be similar.)

Buy your choice of 32/36 DFEV (I have found nothing other than provenance or price to be determinative).

If you buy an EMPI, you most likely need to buy Mark's linkage kit.

If you buy either EMPI or Weber and have a Spider other than '78 you may need to buy Mark's linkage kit.

If you buy a Weber and have an unmodified '78 you only need to get the 8mm ball-stud from Pierce Manifold.

DO NOT listen to the chorus of people, and vendors, who've clearly never even seen this done who continue to post everywhere "all you need is the EMPI Universal Linkage kit".

I went with IAP's 12mm spacer and stud kit: Some like the 20+mm spacer for ease and putative torque advantage, I went with throttles closer to valves. My understanding is longer intake horns increase torque. You need some clearance.

Loop the choke coolant line from the water pump pipe to the head, or replace the water pump pipe with Mark's and cap the head nipple.

I went with the FRAM fuel filter with a return port, not wishing to stress a fuel pump I might find suspect to begin with as I do a good bit of highway driving. I went with the EMPI air filter, you can get one under $20 from one of the VW outfitters.

I found a large tube plug at Autozone (the HELP bits) that fit into the breather tube and then snuggly over the EMPI filter fitting and cut the end off with a Swiss Army knife.

Fit the carb, fit the fuel lines, fit the linkage (trim the threaded rod in Mark's kit, s-bend in the stock '78 rod), fit the breather hose, and a cap on the Weber's vacuum nipple, burp and re-fill the coolant system.

Push the car out of the garage. Take the safety off the fire extinguisher. The hood's open, right?

Crank, pause, crank, pause, crank, pause. Floor the throttle, release, crank: It should run.

It should run staggeringly well. ...Your altitude may vary.

Shut it off! ...Tighten the fuel hose you thought was too tight to begin with, wash down the spilled fuel.

Check timing, set mixture and idle speed.

Check again for leaks.

...Go, drive; smile: Tell your friends.

You've now just restored your FIAT 124 Spider 1800 to as near as designed as you can without 9:1 pistons.

Ciao,
Mark

[jsab]

I can see the light!

Received the 8mm ball-stud, s-bend in the linkage rod, full rotation on the throttle shaft, throttle cable set so the pedal stop is the limit of travel, idle mixture and speed dialed in over an afternoon of tracing shorelines in the reservoir area of Westchester county; and woo-HOO! ...There it is!

Here's what's left:

1) The binding fast idle linkage issue seems rather to be a misaligned linkage element, the fast idle adjustment screw is cocked from the plane of the fast idle cam. Tweaks are pending.

B) There's an awful lot of oil build-up on the crank breather tube fitting and lid of the air filter housing; I haven't a clue, what's in that vapor separator?

Thanks,
Mark

Good to hear. I figured out my binding issue, was a small burr on the carb body where the linkage is screwed in to it. Now it operates properly, no binding. Mine didn't appear to be misaligned.

-John

[DocGraphics]

Yes doing it, new 32/36 weber sitting on bench & '74 4-2-1 exhaust lying on floor in front of car.
20mm spacer & gaskets in box next to carb, car is a 78 so linkage should work just fine with new ball stud.
Also have a used 79 on electronic ignition (w/ vacuum adv.) with all new electrics ready to go in too.
Have the electric choke carb so yes will loop the coolant lines, still need to get the fuel filter with the bypass for the fuel return line.

Will be doing all this, all new hoses & timing belt & removing the emissions stuff soon as weather & time allow.

[opus10583]

[...] have a used 79 on electronic ignition (w/ vacuum adv.) with all new electrics ready to go in too.

Hi Don,

What exactly are those electrics?

[...]still need to get the fuel filter with the bypass for the fuel return line.

Summit Racing.

Thanks,
Mark

[rrrrob]

Can someone put up a pic and explain this file filter with bypass. Is it a FI thing?

[DocGraphics]

electrics are the cap, rotor, pick-up, plug wires & ignition module. everything but the coil will be new.

Summit for filter, got it, have an account there already too.

[opus10583]

Can someone put up a pic and explain this file filter with bypass. Is it a FI thing?

Hi Rob,

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRM-G3499

The DFEV doesn't have a fuel return fitting.

Ciao,
Mark

[opus10583]

ignition module

Hi Don,

That right there, "ignition module", what's that?

Part no.?

Thanks,
Mark

[124JOE]

the eletronic conltrol module
is a GM part that fiat started using in there fi cars 1980
it controls the ING just as pionts did without having to set dwel and stuff"because i dont know"
so it tell the dizzy when and how long to spark
ive seen pics on here of it

i converted to ele ING years ago
to the fire ball 3000 from CRAIN CAMS
they have since revised it"better"
and ditched the pionts

[So Cal Mark]

the pickup replaces the points and creates the secondary spark in the coil, the module amplifies that signal from the pickup. If you install that system I suggest you buy a 2nd module as a spare and carry it with you

[DocGraphics]

Here's the module I ordered from autoricambi

http://www.autoricambi.us/cgi/commerce. ... ey=IG3-464

I will be testing the used one & keeping it as a spare if it's good or getting another, thanks for that suggestion Mark.

[Kent124]

Here's the module I ordered from autoricambi

http://www.autoricambi.us/cgi/commerce. ... ey=IG3-464

Doc if they don't include thermal grease with the control module make sure you use some when installing.

[DocGraphics]

I have a large tube of dielectric (same???), Use it on everything electrical that I have replaced or have repaired for years on all my vehicles.
Good call for any that don't know to keep electrical contacts insulated from the elements & counteract any corrosion.

[Kent124]

Doc my understanding is they are different products. Dielectric retards corrosion while thermal grease promotes heat transfer, in this case to the heat sink.

The best thermal grease actually has bits of silver in it to promote the task.