Weber 32/36 DFEV Upgrade: Game, but Ignorant

[opus10583]

Hi,

There's a red-ish sealant on my heater-pipe to water pump joint, I'll be replacing the pipe with one of Mark's SS nipple-less pieces: What's that sealant? Anyone have a guess as to the pipe joint nut torque? ...Two pumps on this car have been replaced due to stripped studs in the pump housing.

Carb gaskets, specifically carb-to-spacer and spacer-to-manifold gaskets: Do I use any sort of sealant?

Any sealant on the heater hose to pipes joints?

Any sealant on the fuel lines?

I'll be pulling the valve covers as well, any sealant there?

Is there a known solution to adapting the breather hose to the usual-suspect EMPI air filter housing?

I can't find the picture I saw for the EMPI Uni-link adaptation.

How can I tell if my new IAP heater valve requires a plumber? (..."sealant?")

Anyone have a manifest of hose clamps required?

And: All manuals I have specify a spark plug torque that's twice my Honda's; for real?

Thanks,
Mark

[Kent124]

The red-ish sealant is probably RTV Ultra Copper.


For intake manifold and around carb gaskets you could use Permatex Hylomar Universal Blue.

[124JOE]

i wouldnt use sealant on
valve covers
fuel connections
or carb gaskets

as long as you use sealant on the tube flange
just make it snug and let cure

[manoa matt]

The heater hose to pump joint is notorious for weeping, some people tighten the hold down nuts in an attempt to stem the flow, but the flange on the end of the pipe is the problem. It warps easily. When the pipe is off, dress the surface with a flat file, or sandpaper glued to a flat surface. There should be a gasket between the pump and heater tube, RTV sealant on both surfaces will help. The hold down nuts are small and don't require a high torque, just snug them up with the sealant "wet" then once it cures maybe a little more.

No sealant on the carb to spacer and spacer to manifold, most sealants won't hold up to gasoline. You can smear the surfaces with axle grease which will help it seal and allow you to remove the carb/spacer at any point without tearing the gaskets so they can be reused.

No sealant on the heater hose to pipe joint. The hose is just clamped to the heater tube with a pipe clamp.

No sealant on the fuel lines, just clamped.

No sealant on the valve covers, just use the gaskets, you can also smear them with oil or leave them dry.

The EMPI air filter housing will come with the appropriate crank case breather hose connection.

Not sure what the uni link system, I suppose its the kit SoCal Mark offers. If he sells it, it should work. Alternatively you can use this linkage ball:
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99901.770.htm
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/45027.153.htm

For the heater valve, get the rubber gaskets from the vendors, they have a special raised lip on both sides. Without the special gaskets, the connections will leak. Its difficult enough to access and install the valve, you don't want to do it twice.

There should only be two hose clamps required for a 32/36 install. Two clamps for 5/16" fuel hose at the supply line.

The spark plugs should have an aluminum crush washer. Once the crush washer makes contact with the head surface, turn an additional 1/4 turn, or torque to the specified torque in the factory manual.

[opus10583]

Hi,

Thank you all!

...And Matt especially, for going above and beyond!

I think I'm going to be OK.

Ciao,
Mark

[opus10583]

The red-ish sealant is probably RTV Ultra Copper.


For intake manifold and around carb gaskets you could use Permatex Hylomar Universal Blue.

Hi Kent,

...I provided a tube of that when I had my manifold replaced. They mentioned they didn't use it, they also didn't give it back.

Can I assume that's the universal high temp application RTV of choice?

Thanks,
Mark

[opus10583]

i wouldnt use sealant on
valve covers
fuel connections
or carb gaskets

as long as you use sealant on the tube flange
just make it snug and let cure

Thanks Joe!

I have a problem with "snug", I watched someone who really should know better strip the stud.

Thanks again,
Mark

[124JOE]

if that happened to me id drill and tap it one size bigger

[opus10583]

if that happened to me id drill and tap it one size bigger

The shop labor rate being what it is replacement is the cheaper option.

Thanks,
Mark

[Kent124]

I use the red RTV for exhaust work and providing a seal on bolts going into the oil galley. I would NOT use it for intake work.

John Logan (Midwest124) recommends Permatex Hylomar Universal Blue (85249) for intake work. It is a very different product than the red RTV. Universal Blue seals well but never fully hardens making removal easy later on down the road.

[Kent124]

Mark, here's a link for the Universal Blue. Places like Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts etc probably carry it.

Hylomar Universal Blue

[opus10583]

Mark, here's a link for the Universal Blue. Places like Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts etc probably carry it.

http://r1.cygnuspub.com/files/cygnus/im ... 101187.jpg

Thanks Kent!

[opus10583]

Hi,

Here's another dumbass question: Is the 12mm (looks like 10mm and two gaskets, to me) spacer I bought going to be enough?

And the nuts on the engine side: ...how the hell?

Thanks,
Mark

[manoa matt]

If you want to install a 32/36 DFEV on the stock manifold with the stock manifold studs you need at least a 1 inch spacer, but 1 1/8" would be better.

If you use the 10/12mm spacer you will need to find and install shorter manifold studs.

Yep those two nuts on the engine side are tricky, you may need to buy a "crow's foot wrench" or find a cheap 13mm wrench and put a 90 deg bend in it. I have an original Fiat factory tool/wrench that is specifically for the carb hold down nuts.

[So Cal Mark]

or stack up two spacers if the studs are that long. There are also reduced clearance nuts available, they use an 11mm wrench rather than the 13mm wrench normally used on 8mm nuts