1982 fiat spider 2000 pininfarina ecu??

[JackG]

Hey Guys,

I have a 1982 that sat for a few years, been off and on trying to get it ready to run, I have been thru many diagnostics on the "dual relay" fuel pump, took it out drained gas tank, old stale gas removed, and cleaned out the pump, pump will run if jumped with 12 volts, put that back in.. replaced the ICU, what I do not get is, the fuel pump to operate, flap opened, i can hear the relay click, I get spark and she will run if you give her some gas in to the throttle body, put the intake back on, she will run out the gas and sounds great, but my injectors are not firing, the fuel pump wont run on the cars system, ive checked the grounds, checked the inline fuses, under the dash, the 6x6 by 2 inch or so box... ECU, opened the cover, and being a "computer" of sorts, it has the smell of one, but a hint of burnt electricts, smells like and old radio repair shop, anyway, I could be wrong but I feel this is my problem, How can I get this checked, or how could I find another, without loosing my arm and leg?? I also have an 82 x/19 fi that I could steal parts from, but for the life of me I cant find it on the x/19 if there is even one on it.

Thanks in advance, I know you guys have nothing better to do than help me

Jack

[JackG]

AH HAH!!!


Found the ecu in the x/19 its behind the passenger seat, behind the panel, behind the spare, safe and sound and dry

Same set up, same looks, Il check the numbers, but from what Ive found around the interent, they are the same.

Il be back!!!!

Jack

[rlux4]

First, the power to the dual relay. It gets power from four sources;
1. A brown 10 ga. wire directly from the battery. (Unfused, constant power.)
2. A brown with white wire coming from the inline fuse up behind the fuse panel. (Constant, fused power.)
3. A pink with black wire coming from the ignition switch. This is energized when your key is turned to "on" and "start" positions.
4. A light blue with yellow wire coming from the AFM that is energized when the flap opens.
All four sources are needed for the fuel pump to run. The usual culprit is the inline fuse on the brown with white wire. In my case it was the fuse holder, which wasn't making reliable contact when I first got my car. I changed out the holder for a normal AGC type.
It could be your ECU, but that is extremely doubtful. They are pretty bullet proof. I've personally never heard of one going bad. But if no on in your area has one that you could swap out as a test, let me know. I have one I could send you if you covered postage both ways.
Do you have this diagnostic? http://www.wcmotors.com/personal/Fiat%2 ... agnostics/
It's really good for trouble shooting start and run issues.
Ron

[JackG]

Hi Ron,

Yes, been thru most of that, seems to be the ECU, in this case, now with the x/19 ECU it will now, fire up!! but it will not stay running, Seems to be operating the cold start but not the injectors now, I will go thru the list once again and test. It would not even get to the cold start before.

Jack

[JackG]

For the heck of it, I put the old ecu back in, same school of thought, they dont usually go bad, same thing happening, could be the connector, I will clean and keep trying, and testing. good to have a spare for testing I guess.

Jack

[rlux4]

Are the two ground wires attached securely at the rear of the outboard side of the intake plenum?
Do you have a noid light? By putting a noid light in the connector to an injector, you can easily see if it's getting pulse. I bought mine, but you can borrow them from Autozone. I tried a test light and voltmeter without much luck first. I found the noid light to be by far the best.
Was the part number the same on the ECU from the X?
Ron

[htchevyii]

From what I've read, x1/9 ecu will run, but not well, (differences injector pulse for the smaller engine).

[rlux4]

Same thing I heard Trey. That's why I'm curious about the part number. There are Bosch ECUs with very similar part numbers, but won't work well.
Ron

[JackG]

yes, I agree a bit different, last number on x/19 is a 1 last digit on spider is 0, but I have proven that it is not the ecu, and where I am at right now is the brown wire with a white tracer, its hot from the large white plug, it leaves there and goes under the dash above the steering colum, and exits on passenger side, I can not find the inline fuse, I have taken the cover panel off that holds the radio, I do not have power on the brown and white wire where it comes into the dual relay, As Ron had stated that it could be the inline fuse, it must be deep inside, before I dig further, Is it that deep???, I rolled her back into the garage but I can still trouble shoot.

Jack

[JackG]

Does the brown/white wire go anywhere else??? Could I run a new one and install a new inline fuse, and save myself from digging deeper?

Im about ready to set my big screen lcd on the hood, crank up my xbox with forza motorsport 3 and go for a "ride" least I cant get in any trouble for drinking and driving, and great gas milage!

Jack

[rlux4]

That wire can be a bear to find the first time. It doesn't go to the white connector off the ignition switch, it's up in the rat's nest of wiring behind the fuse panel. Mine was stuffed up on top of a brace under the dash and took several attempts to find it. There are two inline fuses benind your fuse panel. This one will be on a brown with white strip as you are already aware. Yes, you could patch in a replacement fused line to the same wire where you can see it on the dual relay, but I stayed persistent until I found the original, mainly because my wiring was very unmolested and I wanted to keep it that way.
This wire is seperate from the batches that are grouped together behind the fuse panel.
When I did find mine, the fuse looked good but wasn't, and the original style clamshell holder didn't make good, consistent contact to the ends of the fuse.
Ron

[JackG]

Ok,

Got in upside down, found the problem, the passenger side lead was plugged into a inline fuse holder, factory type, but, the other end was plugged into a blue clamp on diagnostic terminal, or something else is a miss, this clamp was onto a purple wire. the other end of the brown white, coming from the big white connector was spun around the wire group, so if you pulled it you would not get the end out unless you unwound it, and it was not connected to anything.... so, I took the fuse link off the purple wire, and made the brown/white connection with inline fuse holder the way it should be and tested cont to the dual relay, have cont., tested voltage with key on, got it, in theory she will run. the only reason I can think of was, theft prevention, or not letting anybody drive the car away with out paying, car was in a car repair shop yard. and I agree, I would like to keep it factory wiring if at all possible.

Jack

[rlux4]

Good on you Jack! I hear often that the wiring for the dual relay is butchered or bypassed. Probably from someone not doing the research to get the system figured out.
The pulse signal for the injectors come from the ECU, hopefully you're OK there.
Ron