Door window channel cap

[Anbele]

I acquired a ‘79 not long ago and I’ve been bringing it back to life during the last two months…thankfully, it was mechanically and rust proof sound. But the interior needed a major overhaul. So, I’ve come across listings for the “door window channel cap” on eBay as well as in the part suppliers inventories. But I cannot figure out where do these go. I suspect I might need them to be replaced since my windows rattle a bit when the windows are up and the top down…

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I think you're referring to the rubber "plug" that goes at the very top of the felt-lined channel for the front of the window. If yours are missing, then yes, the window probably would rattle and it might not be obvious where they go. These plugs are riveted in.

If you replace these, it's also a good idea to replace the vertical felt channel that the front of the window rides in, as the window can rattle if these are worn. And the rear if you're so inclined. The rear channel is inside the door, so you can't see much of it from the outside.

It's usually easiest to remove the triangular vent window and the long rail that support this, and we can walk you through the process. It's not terribly hard, but it does involve taking apart some of the door insides.

-Bryan

[Anbele]

Thanks Bryan..you said “we can walk you to the process”, who is these “we”? And Yes! I’ll need the walk thru…thanks again!

[manoa matt]

That rubber cap is molded over a stainless steel tang. The tang is spot welded to the door glass channel prior to installation of the felt channel. Once you rip the old one out, the new one can only be slid in and maybe you get creative with securing it. Epoxy might work, but I was not going to try and weld it in. I bought a set years ago from an old vendor that is no longer in business, the rubber quality was very poor, and it cracked and disintegrated in about a year. Took them out and there is no rattling or leaking.

The felt channel in the vent wing gets deteriorated from UV where exposed above the door, and turns grey. The portion down inside the door is usually still nice and black. Drill the rivet out at the bottom, and flip it end for end and you'll be good for another 40 years for the cost of 2 pop rivets.

[Anbele]

Manoa…I cannot think of a better place on earth—well, yes, Positano, Italy—to have a 124…very, very envious of you! Many thanks for the tip. Will defined look into it.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Thanks Bryan..you said “we can walk you to the process”, who is these “we”? And Yes! I’ll need the walk thru…thanks again!

"We" is just the people on this forum.

Manoa Matt has a good suggestion above, and yes, I think he may be right in that some of these setups are welded, although my recollection is that the early cars had rivets.

The forward window channel is part of the vent window assembly, so it comes out as a unit. Here's the basic process, and I can go into more detail if you want:

1. Remove the door card. Usually involves the three screws in the armrest, the door release handle, the plugs around the edge, and the window crank.

2. The vent window/window channel is secured by 3 bolts/nuts. Two are at the top, behind two 1.5" holes in the frame, usually covered with tape during assembly. The nuts for these are welded inside the door (thank goodness). The nut/bolt at the bottom is accessed through one of the forward 3" holes, usually covered with a plastic plug.

3. The vent window can be tilted around to remove it, and I don't recall having to remove the side window for this. You do have to work your way around the window regulator and other hardware inside the door.

4. Once removed, you can either install a new window channel felt, or use the trick suggested by Manoa Matt. You can also have your top cap welded in if you so desire, or maybe a small rivet would work.

5. Installation is just the reverse.

-Bryan