Clutch Cable Too Long?

[CharlieB]

Hi all,
I finally got around to installing a new clutch cable on my '76 Spider after my firewall repair.
The problem I'm having now is, I have the cable connected but when I touch the clutch pedal, the pedal just slams to the floorboard. I have adjusted the new cable all the way, almost to the end of the threads. I think it's routed correctly. I ran it between the master cylinder and carb and then through the opening on the transmission and then to the fork. My only guess is that I was sent the wrong cable even though the label on the package says it will fit my car.
When I removed the old cable I did not remove the clutch lever return spring at the transmission or the big clutch spring above the clutch pedal even though my manual says to. I din't see the point of removing those. Could that have something to do with my issue?
Does anyone know of any thing else that would cause this, other than the cable being too long?
Thanks,
Charlie

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Does anyone know of any thing else that would cause this, other than the cable being too long?

Yes. Your cable is not connected properly to the "hinge" at the other end of the clutch pedal. The cable length won't make a difference, as the cable is fixed between the firewall and the clutch bellhousing, and heck, it could even be two miles long and it would work just fine as long as the outer sheath and inner steel cable are appropriately matched. Except for where to store all that extra cable as you're driving along, and the fact that your gas mileage would suffer as a two mile long clutch cable would likely weigh several tons.

But I digress. What you need to do is make sure that the little pivot "thingie" on the end of the clutch cable is inserted correctly into the end of the clutch fork at the top. That's easy to say, but much harder to do. It's not a job I relish, but it can be done. The approach is to remove the driver's seat, put some blankets down on the floorboard, get on your back, make sure your hands are very small, learn some Italian swear words, get lots of light up where you're working, and have a go at it. The key is to tilt the cable in order to get it to slide into the clutch fork cutout the right way.

-Bryan

[CharlieB]

Hey Bryan,
Thanks for the response.
Yeah, I had been dreading that barrel end hook thingy but was able to hook it up fairly easily with a pair of really long needle nose pliers. After I got it hooked up I balled up some tape and shoved it in behind the cable end just to make sure it didnt unhook itself from the pedal. Now it is possible (probable) that my tape method did not work. I'll check it after work this afternoon.
Thanks again,
Charlie

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Let us know what you find out, Charlie. I've had that barrel "thingie" at the end of the cable unexpectedly pop out of the clutch fork groove (when not installed correctly), with the result that the clutch pedal goes to the floor. The clutch spring attached to the clutch pedal actually pulls the pedal down to the floorboard, which is counterintuitive. The spring on the clutch fork that goes into the bellhousing is the one that helps pull the pedal back up.

One trick I have used is some stout string or bungee cord around the clutch pedal, attached to the rim of the steering wheel, to keep the pedal from slamming back to the floor as you're working.

-Bryan

[CharlieB]

Bryan,
Once again, you were right. The cable was not hooked to the pedal.
I need to figure out a better way to hook it up. Apparently the method I used did not work.
Thanks for the help,
Charlie

[18Fiatsandcounting]

It is a challenging job. Here's a little more detail on what I do. I move as much of the wiring and other stuff away from the top of the steering column/pedal support box as I can. You don't have to disconnect anything, but try to get as much room up there as you can. Next, I keep the bottom part of the clutch cable loose (that is, don't insert it into its receptacle hole in the bellhousing). I also slide the outer sheath all the way down on the cable, towards the bellhousing.

So, at this point, the only thing entering the firewall from the engine side should be a couple inches of the bare inner cable. From inside the car, I bend the cable with my fingers so that it is almost facing directly vertical at the end (with the "half barrel thingy" horizontal but pointing down). I then slide the cable into the groove cut into the clutch pedal lever, working that "half barrel thingy" into position. I then release the cable back to a horizontal position, and the cable should then be in position.

Sometimes this goes really quickly for me, and other times it takes an hour of frustration and swearing. Eventually, it all clicks into place, and then I put the bottom end of the sheath into the bellhousing hole, and the inner cable onto the clutch lever with the rounded ball nut (but don't tighten quite yet). I then verify that the upper end of the sheath is properly inserted into the firewall, and then adjust that ball nut on the clutch bellhousing fork so that the pedal has about an inch of free play before it starts to release the clutch.

Believe me, I had to do this just a few weeks ago, and I feel your pain. If it's any consolation, successfully replacing a clutch cable in a Fiat spider moves you into the "Grand Master" category of ability.

-Bryan

[CharlieB]

Thanks for the info Bryan, glad to see I'm not the only one that dreads hooking the cable up.
Ok, dumb question of the day, if I remove the wiper cowl can I see the top of the cable? I've never removed it and I'm guessing the answer is no, but thought I'd ask.
Thanks again,
Charlie

[RRoller123]

No, it comes out into the engine bay through the firewall below the cowling

[CharlieB]

Ok, thanks Roller

[18Fiatsandcounting]

RRoller is right, but man, that would be awesome if there were an access port in the "drain pan" below the cowl. That's where rainwater collects after it goes through the cowl grille, and the water drains out of those two tubes coming into the engine bay (one on each side).

Some slow day in the future, I might see if there is a way to cut an access panel in that drain pan, right above where the clutch cable attaches. It would have to be watertight when closed, but I don't think you would lose much structural rigidity and it would make life so much easier. I can't tell you how many hours that I have wasted on all the clutch cables that I've replaced...

-Bryan

[CharlieB]

Success!!
Well my wife's dainty hands saved the day again. She was able to reach under the dash and hook the cable on in no time.
Of course I immediately unhooked it by accident but she got it back on again.
We also used my cheap inspection camera to help guide it into place.
The slight bend on the end of the cable was definitely helpful (thanks Bryan).
I got the cable adjusted with an inch of "free play" and all is well.
More importantly, my new firewall reinforcement weld held up.
Thanks for the help guys.
Charlie
PS - Bryan an access panel in the cowl would be fantastic and I briefly thought about cutting a hole above the cable but, as you mentioned, I was concerned about being able to seal it and wasn't sure about the structural aspect.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Hooray, Charlie! Yes, small hands definitely help with this particular job, and I'm glad you had a spouse who was willing to help. As for an access panel, I'll give it some thought next time I have the cowl off, but my guess is that waterproofing it would be tough, given that the drain pan is curved in that particular area (going by memory here). I doubt you'd see much loss of structural rigidity, but water leaks could be a problem as they would end up right in the vicinity of your pedals, steering column u-joints, electrical wiring, feet, etc.

-Bryan