parking brake cable

[bernhfv]

I am replacing my parking brake cable on my 1975 Fiat 124 spider, but the ferrules on the new replacement do not fit into the rear caliper indents! The new cable ferrule are about .025" bigger diameter than the ferrules on the old cable, which makes the parking brake tight with very little travel. The supplier told me this is a common problem and that there is one one company that manufactures these cables. (I have pictures of the problem, but don't know how to attach them...)

Is this indeed a common problem? Does any one have a solution to this?

The only thing I can think of is demounting the rear calipers (which are new) and then drilling out the recesses to accommodate the oversize ferrules...

Frank

[TX82FIAT]

Frank, I'm not sure I fully understand so stick with me for a minute. Are you saying the cable does not fit in the slot cut into the side of the caliper for the wire routing or that the nipple part of the cable has a diameter that is too wide for the seating position on the outside of the caliper. If it is the first than that is really odd. If it is the second, I was told one could use a flathead screwdriver to carefully open the circumference of the area by opening the slot that the cable is routed through. The person that did this is no longer on the forum and moved to Colorado, but I do recall him saying it was an incredibly tight fit. However, I did not have to do this years ago when I replaced my cable. Also, have my doubts about the ability to open the female section of the brake caliper with a screw driver. I would think the caliper metal is stronger than that and it is not something you would want to bend.


On the other hand, I would have a hard time drilling out new calipers to fit my new cables. Hopefully someone more learned than myself will jump in on this one.

[kmoses]

If you are talking about the stamped metal ferrule that the cable passes through and the rubber boot fits over? If so, I had the same problem. My solution was to reuse the old ones. Cut the "ball end" off the old cable using a .032 thick cutoff wheel mounted on a air die grinder. Then take the old ferrule and cut a slot into it on a 45° angle using the cutoff wheel. Using a small file remove the burrs from the slot you cut in the ferrule. Using a large screwdriver, pry the slot open so you can insert it over the cable. Remove the ferrule from the new brake cable without damaging the metal core. Place the old ferrule that is now slotted in position and close up the slot using pliers and place the boot over the end. Because the slot you cut is at 45° to the cable going through it's center, the cable can't come out. I did try to slot the ferrule that came on the new cable but because of the stamped shape it would not seat properly.

[bernhfv]

Guys, thanks for the quick response.

The cable fits in the slot; problem is the ferrule being too big to fit indented seat in both the arm and the post.

I can get the old ferrules off the old cable to reuse on the new cable, but I wonder if there is anyway to put a "replacement ball" on the one end of the new cable rather than slot the ferrules - thoughts?

I found an Beck Arnley cable on another parts site that the seller "guarantees" me is up to manufacturers specs. They also promise a full money back refund if it doesn't fit... At $20, I took the chance and ordered it. I will let folks know if this one "really fits"...

Frank

[kmoses]

I read that the ball on the cable ends are compressed/staked in a die under very high hydraulic pressure. I'm not sure it's a good idea to go DIY on that.

[bernhfv]

I suspected as much and was just hoping for some "magic". I'll see if the other new cable (the Beck Ansley), which is due is a few days, works any better first, then will be giving the "ferrule surgery" option a go.

It hard for me to imagine that there is only one manufacturer for this critical part and he can't produce one that fits. However, I have found that life isn't fair, but can still be fun.

Frank

[spider2081]

I replaced my emergency brake cable a couple years ago and had the same problem. Leaving the ferrules outside their intended positions does not seem to effect the operation of the Emergency brake.

The demand/volume of Spider parts continues to diminish so the number of manufacturers willing to manufacture small quantities of replacement parts also diminishes. Manufacturers won't make a product run that takes years to sell.

[JohnMc]

I had the same issue a few years ago and went with a different supplier. The new one worked fine.

[JohnMc]

I just looked it up and the last one I got that worked was from AR.

[architect]

I replaced my cable from AR. Went without a hitch,, very simple to do. Let me know if you have any questions!

[SteinOnkel]

I have a follow-up question to this.

So I replaced the cable with an AR unit, no problems there. However, when I adjust the handbrake cable undearneath the car, the lever in the interior gets really hard to pull up, but it doesn't seem to really grab all that well. Does that make sense? On a "normal" car if you pull way up on the lever it'll lock the wheels that much harder. But on the Fiat you have to give it all you got to barely have it resist rolling away on a 3% grade.

Any ideas?

[ORFORD2004]

Any ideas?

Oh yes, replace your calipers for new Fiat 500

[DieselSpider]

Calipers weren't rebuilt correctly. Some (even rebulding services and those that make new ones) really mess up in the way they install the Belleville Spring Washers by doubling then instead of dishing them alternately when the build the stack. When you put two together like spoons in a stack you double their strength which for a 0.0315" thick Belleville can take it from around 160 to 200 lbs to 320 to 400+ lbs resistance. The stack should contain 5 with a flat thrust washer between the Bellevilles and the caliper body in this orientation ()()(| however some so they can assemble the parking brake assembly without having to compress them do a variation of this (())(| making it so the first part of the pull is light as the bottom one gets compressed and then it gets really hard.

The second issue is the self adjusting mechanism inside the piston which if you do not bleed your brakes every two years will jam up making it so no matter how tight you adjust the cable it can't extend the piston enough the hold very well since the self adjuster is sticking from the water absorbed and acid build up in the old brake fluid. Old brake fluid that has not been flushed regularly is also responsible for pitting brake pistons and rotting out brake lines from the inside. Testing the brake fluid at the Master Cylinder Reservoir can give a false impression that all is well since its at the calipers that brake fluid can take a real beating from heat and small amounts of moisture getting past the piston seal making it so its best to just follow the 2 year rule for brake flushes.

Also if the parts under the rubber boot are not greased properly with brake grease and the boot secured in place dirt will wear out the bushings and shaft making it sloppy so it can't depress the parking brake stud in far enough to engage the brakes fully.

On my car I found 4 Bellevilles on one side with one pair doubled and 5 on the other so when I engage the parking brake only one wheel holds unless I press the brake pedal very hard before I pull up on the parking brake lever almost to the point of bending it while you really should just have to depress the brake pedal firmly and then just give a quick tug on the brake lever to set the parking brake. The previous owner assures me he bought both calipers from IAP as a set and that is how they were delivered. One even had a badly installed brass bleeder repair kit in it that is showing signs of electrolysis between the brass part and the aluminum body of the caliper.

I am considering buying 10 new 158 lb capacity Stainless Steel Bellevilles from Fastenal to ensure both sides are equal so the parking brake holds more evenly and there won't be as much resistance from them and rebuilding an empty caliper core to get ride of the one with the bleeder repair kit in it.

[RRoller123]

That is good stuff, very good informative post, thanks for sharing that.

[SteinOnkel]

Very informative answer as always DieselSpider, thank you.

My rear-right caliper is leaking and needs to be rebuilt anyways. I'll tackle that after I'm done with the front suspension.

Which Bellevilles do I need? 7/16?

And how much brake fluid do these bad boys take for a full flush?