NEW problem creaping up!

[tfitzgerald]

Hi guys,

recently I have had a problem where my car will loose all power for about 3 - 5 seconds then kick in as if nothing happened. Its like the fuel pump stops working.

Today i went for a drive and when i shut it off she stopped no problem. When i tried to start the car again, the radio worked but none of the dummy lights (Seatbelt/Exhaust sensor/etc..) came on. I also never heard the fuel pump. I turned the key off and then on and it did the same thing. Then with the key still in the 'on' position all the lights came back and the pump came on. The car then started and off i went.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated .

Regards,
Todd

[azruss]

sounds like the beginning of ignition switch going bad. May want to check your fuses and see if one is a little loose.

[tfitzgerald]

That is the first thing i suspected... I 'moved' the key around while the car was running but i can not duplicate the problem. Last thing i want to do is get stranded with my daughter in the car !

Thanks.
Todd

[divace73]

if it is a Fuel injected model, it will more than likely be the twin bosch relay, it may have a dry joint. If it is this it can be fixed if you are handy with the soldering iron.
If it's not a FI model, it maybe something else....check for firm connections on the coil

[tfitzgerald]

Hmm.. probably should have stated year/model it is a 1981 FI. Where is that relay?

[JammerX19]

My car does the same thing. Changing the double relay did not fix it. Ignition switch is next for me.

[So Cal Mark]

the dual relay won't affect the warning lights. You have a voltage drop somewhere, It could be the ignition or loose fuses or a loose cable at the starter

[spider2081]

I agree with Mark the dual relay does not affect the warning lights. Try and get a wire diagram and a trouble light to isolate problem. Another recent post traced this problem to a loose wire at the alternator output.
The smaller of the black wires from the alternator output feeds fuse 10 and fuse 10 is internally jumped to fuse 9. There are 2 wires on fuse 9 one goes to C31 the ignition switch connector and then to terminal 30/1 of the ignition switch. These connections are not fuse protected but the connections are made at the fuse block. When the switch is in the start or run position that power exits the ignition switch on terminal 15/54 on a pink wire at C31. From there it feed, the ignition, fuse 1, fuel injection, and battery charge indicator.
I believe your problem is in the above path.
I would first check the ignition switch connector C31 for voltage on the black wire mating with the pink when the ignition switch is in the run position.

[tfitzgerald]

Thanks very much for the posts guys... its appreciated.

Just came back from a short spin and she did it again. This time, the fuel pump stopped working and i coasted to the side of the road. I noticed a couple of things while trying to restart... she started right up about a minute later and i was able to make it home.

The oil pressure light and the battery charging light WERE working properly. The 3 dummy lights in the middle were NOT working (Brake-Exhaust Gas Sensor-Seat Belt) and the fuel pump was NOT working as well. The RADIO AND STARTER continued to work.

Spider2081.. with the added information about the working charge indicator do you think the problem still lies with C31?

ALSO

If the RADIO AND STARTER still work, would you consider the ignition switch to be still a potential problem?

Again, thanks for any and all replies.
Todd

[rlux4]

You should check the connection just down from the ignition switch. They're famous for making bad connections and turning brown from the heat of resistance. I'm thinking it's a possible culprit because the gauge lights and the fuel pump power from the ignition switch don't share wires but they do share that connection. Besides the separate inline fuse wire there's a red wire that comes from the ignition to the dual relay through it.
Ron