My turn on the suspension rebuild.. SUCCESS!..Sorta...

[Nanonevol]

Good job! You helped me by answering two questions I had. Is it important to mark the drive-shaft to differential for reconnection? Apparently yes. I got about a tablespoon of oil leaking out there (I don't think that void would hold a whole cup) and I guess that means a leaking pinion seal.

[njoconnor]

"A cup" may be a tad overestimated, but it was way more than a tablespoon! It was quite a surprise.

I'd read that it was important to reassemble the drive shaft and axle flange exactly due to balance issues. The twist ties were a simple solution to the tight spaces and need for one handed application.

BTW....does anyone else have drive shaft bolts with a non-hex/one flattened side head, with nuts so tight against the diff that one needs a crowfoot wrench? Another surprise....but another welcome addition to the tool box!!

Neil

[Nanonevol]

Yes, You can't fit a socket on there. Or we couldn't anyway. Mine weren't torqued too tight though. Happen to know what the torque should be?

[njoconnor]

I will be checking my various manuals (factory, 2 editions of Haynes, and someone else's I forget), and adding it to my quick ref index card of torque settings; I'll post tonight. I suspect t's not much, since mine came off with moderate effort as well.

Neil

[DieselSpider]

Most torque values listed for the differential yoke are for when a new crush sleeve is installed which many will say is mandatory any time you remove the yoke. You really do not want to crush it appreciably more than it was when originally installed.

[Nanonevol]

Cool, but we're just talking about the drive-shaft to the diff connection four bolts and nuts. No crush washer there.

[DieselSpider]

Cool, but we're just talking about the drive-shaft to the diff connection four bolts and nuts. No crush washer there.

If its leaking fluid into that coupling at the rate the pictures are indicating then you should be replacing the pinion seal at the least and dealing with the crush sleeve to some degree. Why skimp on that now especially when dealing with a vibration issue that potentially accelerated the wear of the pinion seal. In my mind I would want to ensure that the driveline vibration hadn't collapsed the sleeve to a degree and at least ensure that it had not loosened from where it should be.

[njoconnor]

Pinion seal on order, and is a definite replace. Opinions on the crush washer seem to vary, with a lot of recommendations to mark the pinion nut location with a punch, then re-tighten just past the mark. I'll see what everything looks like once I'm in there. The bigger question, for me,is pinion nut torque. Haynes says 160 ft/lbs. Barn Find video sez 14 ft lbs. Big difference. Any other thoughts?

Neil

[4uall]

i came across this, it might help

https://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=15256

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... &sk=t&sd=a

http://archive.mirafiori.com/show.php?fid=2&msg=70264

[njoconnor]

Thanks, Jay! In addition to pinion seal info, it's a little history lesson on the prior whereabouts of a couple of current forum members....

Neil

[njoconnor]

Today was a typical one back three forward Fiat day!

Started with cleaning up the trailing arms for prime and paint. The exteriors went well,but when I went to clean the bushing sockets, the forward end of the lower t arms shoed significant metal loss from corrosion (see my "odd issue"post). Azruss had some good recc's, but I'm thinking new lower arms would be safer and less taxing on the mind. But the uppers will gettheir prime and paint this week, then I'll return to the vexing bushing issue (hoping 70Spider gets his HF6 ton pres going, and I can get a report....

Bummed by the arms, I figured I might as well get real dirty and scrub off the diff. It's had gunk soaking on it for three days, so I attacked it with a purple degreaser and a stiff wire brush. Loosened everything, then hit it with a narrow stream from the hose. Wow...it actually came out clean......mostly.....



Found cryptic numbers on the diff: 10/43, and BS1 10. I'll try and leave them visible when I prime/paint this week. Grabbed the cordless impact wrench and pulled the old shocks/brackets off; brackets and spring seats (rubber) will get cleaned and reconditioned prior to reassembly.

The front wheel bearings were beng obnoxious, so I loaded the right (leaky) one into the bench vise (on its flats), grabbed my new seal puller, and began prying out the rear seal. And it came out! As did the left, neither with any drama. Thankfully, all the bearings and races look real good, so it's clean and repack both hubs in the near future.

Finally, (after excellent grilled ground round burgers and a nice Merlot), back out and adjusted the new Koni rear shocks to full soft. Enough for today...time for a beer.

Prime/paint various things over the next few evenings. Wire brush and paint the diff. Plan the front suspension dismantle (spring compressor and 6 inch pipe nipple at the ready). Oh, yeah, maybe spend some time at work.......


Neil

[njoconnor]

No pix cause it was too rainy and too greasy...

Hit the panhard rod and all four of the trailing rods with their final coats of semi-gloss black enamel, and they are drying in the cardboard spray booth out back. A couple of days to cure and set up, and I'm going to try an idea I have for those bushings. Stay tuned on that.

Back to the main garage, and decided to tackle the weeping pinion seal. Had the axle totally off the car, on jackstands. Braced the rotors with quick clamps, marked the nut, and began counting turns. got everything out, but the old seal was in so tight the seal puller actually ripped the metal collar of the seal. Ended up dremeling 2 slots, and prying it out in two pieces. Somone prior had "sealed" it with a tannish putty like something, so got all that scaped off and the shaft well and oil slinger cleaned up. Thread locked the shaft, tapped the new seal in gently, and tightened the nut back down the correct number of turns plus an eighth turn. hosed the entire axle down with Gunk, let it sit, then hised it off with water and wiped it down. Prior to the replacing the seal, the pinion shaft was oozing pretty steadily. Once the new one was in....nothing!

Had to rent a three arm puller to get the rear rotors off the hub. Really rusted/gunky in there, so wire wheeled both rear rotors and will clean up the hub once I get the rest of the axle primed and painted. Also changed the diff fluid for some nice, clear 75-90 synthetic gear oil.

Hoping to tackle one of the front sides tomorrow, but numbah 2 son has decided to buy a new Cherokee, and needs Old Father to tag along and make sure the paper gets completed. Maybe there willl be time......

Neil

[SoFlaFiat]

Well done Neil!
Glad to hear all is coming along well! The peace of mind will be worth all the work, no doubt!!

[njoconnor]

Thanks, Allen. Still mainly removing things, but it was nice to add back for once.

Spent yesterday morning fumbling about with the front shock top nuts. Passenger side was ok, AFTER I removed coolant tank, moved the charcoal canister, and removed the battery (no more arcing wrenches for me!!). Driver's side was difficult, since I was not at all interested in removing the intake manifold and carb. Used a ratcheting box end with 1/4 turn travel. Had the usual turning issues with the top of the shock. Quick clamp didn't fit, but a curved jaw vise grip inserted between the top coils worked nicely. Not looking forward to the re-install; suggestions welcome!

Hoping to finish the front end dis-assembly this week, do one last parts order (gauged the rear rotors...waaayy too thin...), and start adding back on the front end while the rear axle paint is drying.

Neil

[4uall]

hey Neil, I have had success with crow foot wrenches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0YB1v68yCA