How to wire an ignition switch?

[wikkid]

My existing switch is the original, black-backed type, with 5 wires and six connection posts.

The new switch I got with the car is different: a tan back piece with 7 posts, none of them marked.

I can't find a wiring diagram or an old post that would show which wires get soldered to which posts. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Here is a pic of what I have, and a diagram of old (wired) and new.



I drew the post locations and orientations as accurately as I could with a freehand sketch.

[drenthe]

Wish I could help. Just rebuilt my seven post switch, but still having issues. I don't want to give you any bad info. If you get some info I will use it too. I would like to hot wire mine to see if it is something else other than the ignition switch. If anyone knows how to hot wire, let me know, thanks. Good luck, Drenthe

[leadguy]

I just googled "Fiat Spider wiring diagram" and it returns several pictures of diagrams that you should be able to copy and zoom in on on your computer.

[wikkid]

I searched and googled - there are the great Artigue diagrams, but they show a round symbol for the switch that does not bear any resemblance to the actual posts or positions of those posts. Plus, the posts in the "regular" switches (and in the diagrams one can find) are labeled with numbers and/or letters, whereas the tan, 7-post switch I want to swap in has no such labeling.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

[leadguy]

Okay - what's the background on why you are trying to use the beige switch? Is it because it was included, or that you can't find an original replacement?

Also, what year is your car?

[baltobernie]

Terminal numbers are stamped into the back cover of the switch. Reference terminal numbers, not switch position, when installing to your car.

[james124]

I am surprised that the switch vendor did not supply wiriing instructions for the switch installation. You should check with the vendor. The popular US vendors are usually able to assist you in the installation process.
I believe that unless you know how the posts connect with each other connect inside the plastic cylindrical switch and as the key is turned to different positions, it'll be difficult to make the proper connections with your wires.
You could figure it out by using a battery with a test light or a multimeter, but this could take time and patience. A good bet would also be to get someone who has done this to guide you. Hopefully, someone will chime in soon. Good luck. JimmyG

[wikkid]

Thanks all.

Leadguy, it's an '84 (see signature). The reason I am doing this is because the front part of the original switch was removed from the car, and I got the car with just a wired rear, black part of a switch, no front part and no keys. The PO tried to fix this by buying a switch, but the box it was in was a box that showed it was mailed to the PO from an individual in Australia (!) So, no instructions.

Bernie, the new switch does not have any of the OEM type of circuit indications that your image shows - there's my problem, and why I am asking if anyone else has one of these. I just thought that, with all the talk of switches going bad, and how bad these replacements are, someone would be able to step forward and tell me what needs to be done, or post an instruction sheet, or whatever.

I could buy a new replacement, but with so many other parts to buy to get this car up and going (mechanical, electrical and cosmetic), I was hoping to be able to get through this by using what I have: either hook up the new switch, or find someone with an old, fried switch that I could get the front part of, along with keys.

[ga.spyder]

Chris,many of our vendors have used parts.You might be able to source one from them.I re-did the 76 I had with almost all used parts.

[wikkid]

Thanks to all. I found one this afternoon.
I guess it would still be interesting to figure out what gives with the "new" one I have that is different - but it'll sit on a shelf unless someone wants to try working with it.
-Chris

[wbsterritt]

Couldn't you just do a continuity check between terminals @ different switch positions on the "good" switch and compare those to that of the switch in question? You should be able to figure out which contacts are connecting internally at certain switch positions on the switch in question and be able to wire it accordingly.

[wikkid]

Couldn't you just do a continuity check between terminals @ different switch positions on the "good" switch and compare those to that of the switch in question? You should be able to figure out which contacts are connecting internally at certain switch positions on the switch in question and be able to wire it accordingly.

That's what I will do if/when the second-hand switch I finally installed fails beyond rebuild/repair. But for now, I have an original style switch,with this eastern European switch held in reserve.

[james124]

If you are interested in the Russian switch, you can get a cheap fix by replacing the internal electrical switch only with this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LADA-NIV ... ccessories

The end result is that you keep your original Sipea switch and keys and get a cheap fix. You will have to try out the connectors to get it to operate as needed since the terminal ID numbers may be different than Sipea. Also you will need to remove the round spring-loaded thick metal washer inside the lock-set cylinder. Don't know if it is adaptable to the more recent Sipea switches of the 80's

[baltobernie]

Listing has moved:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LADA-NIV ... 1c187910cf

Here's some more info:

The terminal configuration is indeed different than those on my OEM switch. But the functions should work, providing you reattach the wires to the correct number, not position, terminal.



Remove the circlip



This spring thingy will fall out when you turn the switch upside down. You don't need it with the replacement module.



The new module does not have provision for the seat belt buzzer wiring. Cut them off as close to the bottom as possible



Install the Lada module, observing the keyway. There is a Wide and a Narrow end. The module will only seat properly below the circlip groove when oriented correctly.



I'm saving my old Sipea parts, just in case. Can't drive now, but will report in the Spring if there are any difficulties.

[divace73]

Hi All

I just bought the 'switch only' from Flea Bay of some company in Egypt of all places (I am having my doubts), I am waiting for the item to arrive, have to say that I assumed the spade layout would be the same minus the door chime switch?? I'll get most upset when these guys want you to give a 5 star feedback all for suppling a rather average product. Buyer beware.....
I was hoping to buy it now and replace it when I have some time, however it looks like I may have to try it as soon as I receive it. stay tuned.......
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