Bleeding the Cooling System? Not how I do it at all!

[DoctorPDR]

Recently, I had to get a new radiator fan switch. I called XYZ Company and made the purchase. When I received my part, I got a 2-3 page set of instructions about bleeding the cooling system. Raise the front end of the car, squeeze hoses, stick your right hand in, take your right hand out, then shake it all about...etc. etc. My jaw about hit the floor. This is not rocket science.

Everyone, I am going to share a very simple technique with you and you do NOT have to follow these ridiculous instructions (at least on an 80-85 Spider with FI).

Step 1: Drain your entire cooling system. Good idea if you R&R a thermostat, hose, radiator switch, and so on.

Step 2: Connect all of your hoses and replace the drain plug in the radiator.

Step 3: Remove the temperature gauge sensor connector and remove the plug (nut). See picture.



Step 4: Fill your radiator with 50/50 (pre-mix) coolant. They are all the same so it doesn't matter which one, but I use Prestone. Keep filling your radiator (take your time, you don't want to go to fast in this step because you can add un-necessary air bubbles) until the coolant starts to flow out of the Radiator "T". See picture above.

Step 5: Once coolant has started to flow out of the Radiator "T", stop adding coolant, put your radiator cap back on, and put the plug (nut) to the temperature gauge sensor back on. Plug the electrical sensor back in.

Step 6: Fill your overflow bottle about half way. Screw on the cap.

Step 7: Start your car and have a beer, smoke, or big fat fattie. If you don't engage in any of these activities, take your thumb and stick it where the sun don't shine. Just keep an eye on your temp. gauge. When it hits 90C or 190F (there abouts), the fan should kick on.

Step 8: Have another beer, smoke, big fat fattie, or thumb experience and let the fan cycle two more times.

Step 9: Shake it all about -- you do the hokey pokey and you shake yourself around -- that's what it's all about!!!

Step 10: DONE!

P.S. You can complete this process with the front end raised or level. It does not matter either way.

[mdrburchette]

And no need for the Prestone flush kit! Thanks for sharing.

[DoctorPDR]

And no need for the Prestone flush kit! Thanks for sharing.

lol Denise, forgot about that one.

[zachmac]

This is even easier if you have your coolant T, temp sensor and vent plug correctly installed so that the sensor is on the bottom and the vent plug is on the top! That way you just remove the vent plug and after filling put it back.

On my 80 FI car the sensor and a plug can be installed in either side of the T. The key is to put them in so that the T restiction is toward the thermostat when the sensor is on the bottom and the vent plug on top. Otherwise this procedure is indeed quite simple and effective. I did it yesterday (via the plug on top).

[DoctorPDR]

This is even easier if you have your coolant T, temp sensor and vent plug correctly installed so that the sensor is on the bottom and the vent plug is on the top! That way you just remove the vent plug and after filling put it back.

On my 80 FI car the sensor and a plug can be installed in either side of the T. The key is to put them in so that the T restiction is toward the thermostat when the sensor is on the bottom and the vent plug on top. Otherwise this procedure is indeed quite simple and effective. I did it yesterday (via the plug on top).

Actually zachmac, this is how it was installed when I bought the car and even questioned a FIAT mechanic here in Michigan, if it was installed correctly being on top. He stated that it can be installed either way, but bottom is where it should be. As long as it doesn't interfere with the hood and/or hinge, leave it alone. And mine doesn't interfere with either one of them so I just left it as is. Perhaps someday, I will go ahead and turn it around.

Glad to hear my simple instructions helped you.

[DoctorPDR]

Well, I removed the aftermarket Water 'T' from XYZ Company that I installed several years ago. I wanted to reverse it, so that the plug wire faced down. Upon further inspection, I noticed that in fact it was installed right, since the smaller inlet hole was facing toward the thermostat (passenger fender). However, installed this way means that my plug wire will be on top.

My question is this: I would like to have my plug wire facing downwards, which means that the smaller inlet hole would then be facing toward the driver's side fender. Can I do this? Will the cooling system still operate normally?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[billstyer]

You will find a plug on the bottom of the tee (actually angled forward - same as the sensor) that has the same thread as the sensor. Just swap them. Leave the tee the way it is. My tee was in backward, and I've seen a 5 - 10 degree drop in normal operating temperature since I set it right.
Bill

[billstyer]

Whoops! I just noticed that your tee seems to be a replacement, possibly machined from a solid piece. It may not have the plug, in which case, just stick with what you've been doing. BTW - When I fill my system, I put a (cheap) vacuum pump on the tee where your sensor is, and with the overflow tank full, and radiator cap on, pump the air bubbles out of the system until I get nothing but coolant coming out. Works for me.
Bill

[DoctorPDR]

Whoops! I just noticed that your tee seems to be a replacement, possibly machined from a solid piece. It may not have the plug, in which case, just stick with what you've been doing. BTW - When I fill my system, I put a (cheap) vacuum pump on the tee where your sensor is, and with the overflow tank full, and radiator cap on, pump the air bubbles out of the system until I get nothing but coolant coming out. Works for me.
Bill

As far as your method of bleeding the cooling system, I believe that would work to. However, I think it's going over board and all that work isn't necessary. Doesn't your arm/hand get tired of pumping? Or is this a 30 second process?

And yes, only one hole on mine because it's aftermarket made of aluminum. And I'm not even going to mention who I got it from because it seems they do EVERYTHING half ass on after market stuff. So what I'm going to do is drill the smaller inlet side out to match the other side, and reinstall with the plug facing down. I did order an OEM replacement just in case my method turns into another cluster f..k!

Thanks for the reply anyway.

[zachmac]

Glad to hear my simple instructions helped you. [/quote]

Actually, not to burst your bubble (no pun intended) but I have been using the vent in the T method fopr quite a while.

As another poster pointed out you seem to have an aftermarket T. Factory Ts have two threaded holes of equal size. When properly installed the restiction on the T points toward the thermostat and the snesor in on the bottom and a vent plug is on the top. That way the wires don't get banged up by hoods, clumsy hands, flying wrenches, etc. and the vent is where it needs to be to bleed the system.

As far as where the T restriction is supposed to be facing, I got it backwards initally and then went back and reversed it. My car runs at about 180 in 95 degree weather when moving and cycles from just over 195 to below 190 on the fan cycling when at a light.

[DoctorPDR]

Glad to hear my simple instructions helped you.

Actually, not to burst your bubble (no pun intended) but I have been using the vent in the T method fopr quite a while.

As another poster pointed out you seem to have an aftermarket T. Factory Ts have two threaded holes of equal size. When properly installed the restiction on the T points toward the thermostat and the snesor in on the bottom and a vent plug is on the top. That way the wires don't get banged up by hoods, clumsy hands, flying wrenches, etc. and the vent is where it needs to be to bleed the system.

As far as where the T restriction is supposed to be facing, I got it backwards initally and then went back and reversed it. My car runs at about 180 in 95 degree weather when moving and cycles from just over 195 to below 190 on the fan cycling when at a light.

I'm very familiar with the OEM Radiator Union, so you are not telling me anything new. And trust me, I'm fully aware that I have an after market Union. In fact, I'm the one that installed it when I replaced it shortly after I bought the car (read entire thread). I removed it yesterday because I wanted to confirm that I didn't install it backwards. The previous owner had an OEM Union installed backwards prior to me purchasing the car (which is why I removed the original and replaced it with the aftermarket -- I wanted a nicer look with aluminum). By looks, you would think that this aftermarket Union was installed backwards as well, but it isn't. It's a stupid, unplanned, and uneducated design because it has no hole for a bleeder nut, and the only hole that's on it is for the temp sensor which is located on the top. I paid over $70 for this poorly designed and fabricated mod.

Unfortunately, the aftermarket Union made of Aluminum has only ONE hole for the temp sensor. There is no hole underneath or anywhere else for a bleeder/burp nut. On either side of the Union, one inlet hole is smaller in diameter than the the other one. The smaller sized inlet hole needs to go towards the Thermostat (theoretically), unless you drill it out to match the other side. However, in FIAT's madness in design, this smaller inlet hole is actually un-necessary (serves no purpose) so I'm going to drill it out so it matches the other inlet hole. The inlets I'm referring to are for the upper rad hoses. I referred to me buying an OEM replacement in case I damage the aluminum Union in my drilling modification. Another option as opposed to enlarging one of the inlet holes, is adding another hole and tapping it to accomodate both the sensor and bleeder nut. The main reason for my post, was to place the sensor at the bottom because I really don't want to see it. If I don't drill another hole for a bleeder nut and only drill out the inlet hole larger, then I can place the sensor at the bottom and then I would have to bleed the system from the hose near the top of the Plenum because I would have no bleeder nut.

Maybe you need to review what I wrote originally (including the previous poster), because I think I was pretty specific in my explanation and so was he. But then again, maybe not and I'm missing something (I'm wrong) and if so, I will apologize in advance. But I don't think that's the case. And if I'm coming across like an ass...e, I will also apologize in advance because I ordered a wood dash kit over 3 weeks ago from another poster in this forum that I still don't have (was quoted a 1 week turn around time), and I'm a little pissy because I can't drive my damn car without it!

[zachmac]

DR,

First, I see that you are relativley new to the site. You need to understand a few things.

1. We are a pretty light hearted group (if you own a Spider you better have a sense of humor) and we make FRIENDLY jabs at each other all the time. It isn't personal, it isn't flaming and it isn't meant to offend.

2. My post about the bleeder was for persons who might have a stock T and were reading you post, not nessessarily you. Posts are public and read by lots of members so all response aren't just directed at you.

3. Yes it was obvious from your picutures that you have an aftermarket T but I don't know that T and have no way of knowing whether or not there is a hole on the underside from you post.

4. There definitely IS a reason for the restiction side of the OEM T, to restict flow until the thermostat opens up SO that the car will warm up faster to operating tempearatures. This was done to help reduce emmisions. I would think anyone living in La-La land (some of that hunor again, I am smiling with you not at you) would be concerned about adding to the brown air.

Keep it light!

[DoctorPDR]

DR,

First, I see that you are relativley new to the site. You need to understand a few things.

1. We are a pretty light hearted group (if you own a Spider you better have a sense of humor) and we make FRIENDLY jabs at each other all the time. It isn't personal, it isn't flaming and it isn't meant to offend.

2. My post about the bleeder was for persons who might have a stock T and were reading you post, not nessessarily you. Posts are public and read by lots of members so all response aren't just directed at you.

3. Yes it was obvious from your picutures that you have an aftermarket T but I don't know that T and have no way of knowing whether or not there is a hole on the underside from you post.

4. There definitely IS a reason for the restiction side of the OEM T, to restict flow until the thermostat opens up SO that the car will warm up faster to operating tempearatures. This was done to help reduce emmisions. I would think anyone living in La-La land (some of that hunor again, I am smiling with you not at you) would be concerned about adding to the brown air.

Keep it light!

1. I'm very light hearted, just not a happy camper at the moment.

2. From your post, it sounds like you were addressing me directly.

3. Before your original reply, I already stated that I had only one hole in my Union and that it was aftermarket. And the previous poster clarified his orginal post acknowledging the same thing.

4. I'm not worried about emissions on my car because her cherry was removed. So other than that, the smaller sized inlet hole is un-necessary.

Other than that, point taken and I will apologize for any mis-communication.

[SpiderJim]

I did not see anything about opening up the heater valve in filling the system.... A must I believe. PDR nice looking union.

[DoctorPDR]

I did not see anything about opening up the heater valve in filling the system.... A must I believe. PDR nice looking union.

You can open it Jim. Thanks, other than the poor planning in fabricating it.