Still intermittent no start

[majicwrench]

JiminiCalif,
Did it do this "no crank" BEFORE the new starter??

If lights dimming when trying to crank, like you said, current is probably trying to go somewhere. Is it starter humming??

Those gear reduction starters ( at least the one I have) has contacts inside the soleniod that can cause problems. Is same basic starter on many honda's and chrysler products. I replace and adjust those contact every month on somebody's vehicle.
The starter will " click, click " several times and eventually start.

Again, did it do this BEFORE the new starter??
Keith

[jimincalif]

Craig,

Here is the connector on the red starter wire. Alternator to the left, starter motor to the right. Really can't see any purpose to this connector at all, it just extends the wire to the starter. I cleaned it, and spread the male end a bit so the it is very tight, but I will likely remove it entirely and solder/heat shrink a new length of wire there.

[So Cal Mark]

It's best to eliminate those connectors and solder the two wire ends.

[jimincalif]

Keith,

Yes, it did it before the new starter. I had tested the battery, cleaned the terminals, replaced the battery ground wire, cleaned the ground chassis connection, temporarily bypassed the ignition switch, so after all this I replaced the starter. Then it didn't start a few more times before I cleaned this connector.

Jim

[ga.spyder]

Thanks guys.I found the connector and cleaned it up for now.I will do as Mark suggests and solder it,to eliminate the connector.Hope that will take care of it.Thanks again,
Craig

[robmorais]

I did not take a picture of the connector before I cut it out... will remember that for next time... I did save them and have included a picture below.

Basically if you trace the wires from the starter they eventually will lead you to this kind of connection or perhaps to the kind of connection Mark described earlier in the posting.

I just cut them off and soldered the wires together - works perfectly now!

Click the link to see the picture of the connectors.

Good luck
Rob

http://s1006.photobucket.com/albums/af1 ... ectors.jpg

[spider2081]

I know some will not agree with this, but I install a 35 amp contact rated relay in between the connector everyone is discussing. The start current for the starter solenoid is quite high. It does contribute to the failure of the "start" position of the ignition switch. A Square automotive relay draws less than 1/10 the current of the starter solenoid. My 81 had the same intermittent start issue. I found my ignition switch was intermittent. I installed the relay, because the current needed is so low the ignition switch has worked every time for the past 10,000 miles. If the ignition switch begins to act up again I will change it. Having the relay will make the new switch last longer.
I mount the relay on the driver side fender well. Use the side of the connector that comes from the ignition switch to energize the relay coil. Other side of relay coil goes directly to ground. The common switch contact of the relay connects to the battery terminal of the alternator. The Normally open contact of the relay connects to the starter solenoid. wire gauge #14 is sufficient. If you chose to try this remember to disconnect the battery as the alternator output terminal is powered all the time.

[DoctorPDR]

It's best to eliminate those connectors and solder the two wire ends.

Mark, there is a brown wire with the same plug (terminal). Is it a good idea to solder that as well?

[So Cal Mark]

yes, that connector is a problem after 30 + years

[courtenay]

This is great - turns out I had the same problem. While I will eventually cut and solder these wires, for now I took them apart, cleaned the contacts and applied some dielectric grease. Car starts right away every time now.
Here's a couple of pics. You're looking for the brown and red wires running right behind the alternator - under the single red wire in these pictures. I have an '80 Fi.

[minimike]

Are you guys saying take the two wires under the altenator, brown and red, and connect them to each other thus disconnecting
them from where they are now?

I've got a 79 and just had a no start problem. Possibly related to me jiggling wires to get the horn to function.
I'm all for improvements. Where to the brown and red wires go and where do they come from?
mike

[Fiat88]

Are you guys saying take the two wires under the altenator, brown and red, and connect them to each other thus disconnecting
them from where they are now?

I've got a 79 and just had a no start problem. Possibly related to me jiggling wires to get the horn to function.
I'm all for improvements. Where to the brown and red wires go and where do they come from?
mike

What they mean is just get rid of the bullet connectors and just splice and solder the wires ends directly together. Cut the wire right before the black bullet connector on each side, strip each end, place heat shrink on, twist the ends together, solder, melt heat shrink, done. Do the same for the next wire. I think thats what your asking.

[minimike]

That's a good explanation of what I needed. Thanks.
mike

[jimincalif]

Yes, just remove the connectors. Don't cross connect those wires.

[minimike]

My no start appears to be a low battery situation. Hooked it up to the charger, and it cranks fine. DOH! Just coincidence that
I was trouble shooting the horn for 1 1/2 days and ran the battery down.