Ignition Connector Block is HOT HOT HOT!

[manoa matt]

Last night while cruising around Waikiki I noticed a dreaded familiar smell of heated/burning plastic. I reached down and felt the ignition switch connector block, it was so hot I could not hold if for more than 5 seconds. I'm guessing I need the headlight relay conversion. Throughout the life of my spider I've done the following to maximize the system: brown wire surgery, cleaned all the ground pods and connectors, cleaned the fuse panel and installed all new fuses, also made sure they were securely clamped in. New Sylvania H6024XV 65/55 watt headlights, And have upgraded to the 65 amp alternator.

I've seen four different but similar headlight relay conversions, and wonder which is the best, which process do you guys prefer? I already have all the necessary relays and wires to do the conversion. Also Is there something else that would cause the connector block to get hot, or is it for sure the headlights?

1. http://www.mirafiori.com/faq/content/relays.htm

2. http://www.spidercenter.com/ then go to the service topics for the solution for dim headlights

3. http://flumichigan.italiancarclub.com/T ... cedure.pdf

4. http://users.chartertn.net/jseabolt/elect.htm

[pope]

I too am having headlight problems, seems the lights are drawing too much juice. Seems I can barely get my cigar lighter to work. Can any one look at my car and tell me why? I cant figure it out.
Sorry Matt, cant help you there. Havent done the procedure.

[ga.spyder]

Yes.You will have to run a new power supply and relay to your cigar lighter

[racydave]

Matt, however you do your headlamps, youll need to repair the connections at the ign connector. I just by-passed the offending terminals with butt-connectors.

[rlux4]

Matt, have you done night driving before since you got the new headlamps? I don't know the amp draw of stock headlights, but yours do sound like a high draw. I think it's Greg Smith up Seattle way (on Mira) that sells a kit for the relay conversion. He does a lot of them.
Pope; On your Club Italia Abarth car, does the problem only appear when you apply the brakes? Could be the brake light bulbs don't have a good ground. That's the only thing I could think of that may be causing a problem. (emoticon wouldn't copy here.)
Ron

[pope]

Matt,
Let me ask you, are the wires that lead to the connection also hot? I am not talking about the area right next to the connector, but how about 8 or 10" away. If they are cool, then the harness connection is the cause and I would try some dielectric jelly on each of the connections. Its possible that some of the connections have too little connection surface area and is trying to push too much juice through. Like trying to get 5 gallons of water through a 1/2" pipe.

[manoa matt]

I've had those headlights in for about 8 months now, maybe longer and have not noticed any thing out of the ordinary. Considering its my daily driver and it rains at some point each day there have been many occasions that I've been driving around with the lights, wipers, heater fan motor, radio, and engine fan all on at the same time without problems.

Well, for 12 volt systems the watts to amps conversion is pretty simple just divide the watts by the volts to get amps.
My low beams (55watt) currently draw 4.58 amps at each bulb, and each bulb is on its own 8 amp fuse.

According to a 1974 Haynes manual the low beams were 40 watts and the high beams were 45 watts. (3.33 amps for the low beams)

All that aside, I would figure 4.58 amps would still fall well within the safe zone for an 8 amp circuit.

[rlux4]

I agree. I just didn't know the amperage of the original lamps.
Seeing as you've had then on for a while, I'm leaning toward a connection in the connector not making a good connection. To phrase it with alliteration.
Unless a short is developing in one of the circuits supplied by the ign. switch. Is one of the wires showing more signs of overheating than the others?
Ron

[ROOK1]

I just made a harness for my Spider. I used the conectors from my parts car to make a plug and play harness. I used the two connectors that were on the harness and one of the connectors from the light bucket. I used the light bucket plug to connect to my existing harness as the switch/trigger for both high and low beams. I then made harnesses from the relays to my existing buckets with the harness plugs from the parts car. I took power directly from the battery to the relays. I like this because I can easily go back to stock if needed.

[limey1332]

Matt,
Let me ask you, are the wires that lead to the connection also hot? I am not talking about the area right next to the connector, but how about 8 or 10" away. If they are cool, then the harness connection is the cause and I would try some dielectric jelly on each of the connections. Its possible that some of the connections have too little connection surface area and is trying to push too much juice through. Like trying to get 5 gallons of water through a 1/2" pipe.

This tip was very helpful in solving my problem.

Thanks