No Brakes
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- Patron 2020
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- Your car is a: 1981 2000
No Brakes
I replaced my idler assem and afterwards when I went for a test drive I had no brakes. Is there something I could have knocked loose while doing that ? Or, just coincidence? I don't see any fluid leaking
Thanks for any guidance
Thanks for any guidance
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- Posts: 3900
- Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:23 pm
- Your car is a: 1969 and 1971 124 spiders
- Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Re: No Brakes
Weird. The only brake component in the vicinity of the idler assembly is the hydraulic line from the master cylinder to the front right brake. You might have somehow cut open that line, but I would expect to see brake fluid leaking.
Did you disconnect anything on the front right brake when you worked on the idler?
-Bryan
Did you disconnect anything on the front right brake when you worked on the idler?
-Bryan
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- Patron 2020
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Re: No Brakes
I didn’t think I even touched the brakes. No fluid leaking anywhere
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Re: No Brakes
Check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir. The only thing that I can think of at this point is coincidence, in that you somehow got air into the brake lines and it chose the moment after you worked on the idler to become apparent. Weird if that's what it is, but I'm at a loss otherwise.
-Bryan
-Bryan
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Re: No Brakes
Thank you for taking the time to respond. The fluid is fine, but I will be bleeding the system next week. Hopefully that fixes it.
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Re: No Brakes
I had a frozen right rear caliper so I ordered a new one along with a new e brake cable from Vicks. Replaced them. After bleeding all the brakes and new cable E brake works better than ever but still no main brakes. It felt like I could not get the front passenger side completely without possible air. Looking next to the master cylinder. Does that sound like the next logical step?
Thanks
Thanks
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- Posts: 3900
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Re: No Brakes
Looking at the master cylinder would seem the next logical step, but I'm still perplexed why your brakes were working fine and then they weren't after you worked on the steering. When you did the brake bleeding, did fluid come out of all four calipers as it should? Bleeding the rears should be done by lifting the car by the rear axles, not by the body (the rear brake compensator can shut off fluid flow to the rear calipers if the axle is hanging down).
Also, did you bleed the brakes by pulling a vacuum on the bleed nipple, or by the traditional method of pumping the brake pedal? If the latter, and fluid came out, then that would imply that your master cylinder is working, although it may not be building up pressure. If that is the case, the vast majority of times the issues is air in the lines.
-Bryan
Also, did you bleed the brakes by pulling a vacuum on the bleed nipple, or by the traditional method of pumping the brake pedal? If the latter, and fluid came out, then that would imply that your master cylinder is working, although it may not be building up pressure. If that is the case, the vast majority of times the issues is air in the lines.
-Bryan
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Re: No Brakes
I started rear rt, rear left front rt front left. Pumping the brakes. I did have car up by rear axle.
I kept getting air in the front rt line. Checked it from master. No leaks anywhere. Pumped at least a quart through it. But every time I thought I was good I would get some bubbles. Other 3 cleared of air relatively quickly.
I am also perplexed about the timing. Frustrating but I always figure that comes with the territory when restoring a 44 year old car.
Thanks for your input and advice
I kept getting air in the front rt line. Checked it from master. No leaks anywhere. Pumped at least a quart through it. But every time I thought I was good I would get some bubbles. Other 3 cleared of air relatively quickly.
I am also perplexed about the timing. Frustrating but I always figure that comes with the territory when restoring a 44 year old car.
Thanks for your input and advice
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- Posts: 3900
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- Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Re: No Brakes
It sounds like you bled the brakes just right. One thought: I have often seen bubbles continue to come out of a caliper when bleeding, even though I have bled the heck out of it. I believe it is due to loosening the bleed screw TOO much, so it draws air past the threads as you are pushing fluid out the center. So, nowadays, I only loosen the bleed screw just a crack, no more than 1/4 turn I would guess. And for unknown reasons, this phenomenon seems more pronounced on the right front caliper.
But even with a bit of air in the lines, you should have some braking action. If there is just nothing, then it does sound like your master cylinder has failed. Or something totally weird like the plunger to the brake booster has slipped off the brake pedal....
-Bryan
But even with a bit of air in the lines, you should have some braking action. If there is just nothing, then it does sound like your master cylinder has failed. Or something totally weird like the plunger to the brake booster has slipped off the brake pedal....
-Bryan
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Re: No Brakes
I appreciate you taking the time
New master has been ordered
I will post afterwards
Thanks
New master has been ordered
I will post afterwards
Thanks
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- Patron 2020
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Re: No Brakes
New Master cylinder. Then bleed the lines.
Working perfectly.
Thank you so much for your patience and guidance
Pat
Working perfectly.
Thank you so much for your patience and guidance
Pat
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- Posts: 3900
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Re: No Brakes
Awesome Pat, glad you fixed it. Any indication of what was wrong with the old master cylinder?
-Bryan
-Bryan
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Re: No Brakes
When removed the old master there was fluid at the rear seal at the plunger. I think that is were air was getting in. Fluid was not dripping there but I couldn’t see any other issues.
Now to tackle my drivers side window and flashers not working.
Pat
Now to tackle my drivers side window and flashers not working.
Pat