Electrical Downsizing

[pope]

I agree with you except that spar varnish tends to yellow over time where poly has a slight amber and tends to stay that way.

[rlux4]

Now, this is just my personal opinion, so it can be taken for what it's worth. I never saw a veneer made out of anything but wood that looked like wood. They all look like fake wood.
That being said, wood would work. Pope is right on, it would have to be sealed on all surfaces to protect it from the atmosphere, moist or dry. And UV protected.
There are wood products that are hundreds of years old, doors, furniture, etc., that are still in good, unwarped condition.
I think this dash is gorgeous and obviously took a lot of work to create.
I've been a carpenter for 37 years and have never done a project like it. But I sure would love to tackle it.
Ron

[mdrburchette]

Like Pope said, use several coats of a good poly and make sure the wood is sealed. The original early dashes were made of a plywood with veneer, covered with lacquer and they lasted several years.

[Hutch]

Think about classic sailboats...

Excellent point. I have seen some absolutely beautiful old Chris Crafts as well. I have also seen people put incredible numbers of varnish on them. Thanks.

[4babycar]

I must admit, that I have that dash picture in my collection of thing that I like and will hopefully, one-day do to my cars picture collection. Regarding finishing, I had wondered about using a stained CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) http://www.rotdoctor.com/index.html on a solid wood dash. CPES is a product that I used on my previous house to stabilize some wood that had prior water damage. The stuff mixes like any 2 part epoxy and then you paint it on and the wood soaks it right up. Once inside the wood grain it hardens and prevents any moisture from entering the wood and the epoxy has UV protectants in it so it helps prevent sun damage. It started out as a product for boat builders but found its way into wood restoration for homes. From what I have read you can stain it to your liking before applying and the color with be locked into the wood by the epoxy. Since I am by no means an authority on this subject, I will certainly default to those who know far more about wood craft and finishing. I just wanted to throw it out there.

[apexwc]

I would ask Jeff Jewitt at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com, or just search their forum. Lots of great wood finishing information there.

[Blast]

Today i got a little more done. Its going so well with this pine board, I am tempted to use it. Here are some pics, and more can be seen at the link I'll try to post.
Blast






and heres the link
http://s432.photobucket.com/albums/qq46/XBLASTX1956/

[Hutch]

Wow. You have an eye for this don't you? Looking good. Can't wait to see the finished product, and then the one you build for me, lol.

[Blast]

Thanks Hutch,

If I don't get a load and get to work soon, I may be making these for a living
I still have more sanding to do, then 2 more holes, then final sanding, then stain and protective coating.
I kinda hate I haven't messed up yet, I hate to do it again with hardwood, but I hate pines tigerstripes, and I plan to match everything to the nardi wheel anyway. The next one will be a little easier, so by the time I get to yours, I'll be a master

[So Cal Mark]

it looks good, but wouldn't it be stronger if you took the 2 small gauges out the stacked arrangement and placed one on each side of the tach/speedo? That section below the small gauge looks very thin

[Blast]

Theres only about 1/8 to 3/16 inch above, below, and in-between the small gauges, but the wood there is about 5/16 inch thick. I'm sure it could break, but not without some serious force. The hardwood one I plan to build next, should be a little stronger also. I plan on putting two more gauges over to the right next, like in the first photo in the thread. You have a Good point though So Cal Mark

[apexwc]

White pine is not good for much except what you're doing. However, salvaged old growth quarter sawn heart pine or cypress would look very nice and be very stable and durable. Of course, walnut or cherry would be nice, too.

[Hutch]

Sorry to be so dense on this topic, but couldn't you use a real wood veneer on top of the pine and then seal the whole thing up real good? That way you could have any look you like and still use the pine as the "core". Wouldn't that look the same as making the whole deal out of say Oak or Cherry while costing less and being less work?

[mdrburchette]

Here's a guide for different woods:
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood/

It doesn't look like white pine would be a bad wood for this application, although I've always used a hardwood.

[Blast]

Hey Hutch,

I think that would be great, but the ends of the board are curved, and I think trying to overlay that part would be almost impossible. Take a close look at the photos on photobucket and see how it could be done. If there was a way, it would be so much easier to make it out of pine and overlay it. I couldn't even get the subfloor foam in the floorpan to cooperate around curves without folding and cutting angles. Also there are some very slight angles on the flat part of the board that may not show up if the overlay was not like shrink wrapped to it. Even in my photos, its hard to see some of the details. It may be easier to see once it has been stained. But with those pine tiger stripes it will still camoflouge the subtle details that are shaped into the board.

I worked on it just a little today. I had been using 100 grit, today after cutting the other 2 holes, I went over it with 150 grit. The board really started coming to life. The pine is so soft, I dropped it onto the plastic sawhorse from 2 feet, and it left a mark.

All thats left is to find a voltmeter, oil pressure gauge, stain it, and figure out how to attach it. Since this is not going to be the one I use, I don't think I'll put a protective coating on it. Untill this one is completely installed and is tested, I'm not going to start on the hardwood one.

Here is what I got done today. For some reason its chopping off the right hand side of the pic