My '76 so far....

[reidyyz]

I tried Partsource and NAPA today and unless I can get the highest seniority employee that knows the inventory fwd and backward, I'm just going to get a "I need a part number" type service person at these big box stores. It was a gamble, that did not pay off.

I still have the option of a parts supplier near work that has in the past took the time to look for a specific odd ball item for a few days and have delivered. I'm going to work tomorrow and will pursue that avenue then because I'm an old man and I like to give bricks and mortar shops a chance at my money before I give it to Bezos:

https://www.amazon.ca/SAUTOP-Socket-Hol ... 2DLN&psc=1


And yes, parking brake cable is routed under the exh. pipe, just trying to give it some space, to extend the life.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

And yes, parking brake cable is routed under the exh. pipe, just trying to give it some space, to extend the life.

Sounds good. The parking brake cable should have an extra layer of plastic (rubber?) insulation where the cable passes under the exhaust pipe. On my spiders, the exhaust pipe rests on the brake cable for the most part, but no harm seems to have come from this. Maybe I don't drive fast enough to get the exhaust really hot....?

Your plan to separate the brake cable from the exhaust pipe is a good one. Something Fiat should have thought of.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

Yes, I have the extra layer of rubber sheathing, but thats been melted through, as well as the outer shell, that runs the length of the cable. The spiral metal core is a little exposed so I wrapped a couple layers of thick aluminum tape and clamped it there.

For the last two years walking past the car in the driveway I kept thinking that I'll lower the suspension one day, but I took it off the jackstands.... I don't mind the ride height, so the springs will stay as they are. And with it on 'terra firma', un-plated, I went around the block and it was fantastic. Then I took the Woman around as well, she enjoyed it. And then the kids, and they REALLY approved.

A few test drive defects that need addressing:

1) Gas gauge reads empty with red light on, with at least 1/4 in it. Its a new sending unit, so wiring to be looked at.
2) Rev light- socket replacement in progress, just need some tiny pop rivets
3) Wiper motor plastic gear is all chewed up, need new one

So hopefully I get those fixed up and certified before winter and then I'll start with short drives to see how it holds up.

[reidyyz]

The solutions to the findings:
1) After checking the fuel indication by jumpering in my old qty transmitter, the wiring and gauge ops check normal. It turns out that 10 liters is not enough to turn off the low light or move the needle, but another 10 liters is, so thats good. Plus, good to know I have 10L reserve when light illuminates.
2) New reverse light socket installed after some modification to fit it.
3) Plastic gear replaced, wipers ops normal

I can't see any other issues that would preclude me from getting the Holy Grail that I've been seeking, the "Ontario Safety Standards Certficate"

Meanwhile, after my brief maiden voyage it was quite clear that the heat insulation under the passenger knee/calf area needed replacing as the original (pulled out 2+ years ago) was soiled and gross and the cat makes the floor dangerously hot. My friend, who just finished a 70's muscle car, had left over so I'm not sure the brand but it was just enough for what I needed and if it was good enough for a monster V8, its good enough for the inline 4. Having gone around the block a few times yesterday, the carpet isn't even warm to the touch.

Next on the list is:
1) changing the water only solution to the required 50/50 coolant. I wanted to make sure there were no leaks before I did the 50/50.
2) flushing the brakes system and as I've read, DOT 3 is the optimum brake fluid, with some arguments in favour of DOT 4, but not DOT 5, but DOT 5.1 is okay as well?? Its like the manual transmission fluid all over again. Nothing is straightforward on this car......

[reidyyz]

So.... I went to Service Ontario to get a 10 permit to be able to drive it to get it certified up by my work (35kms away), where I know the owner of the shop, but having never been a position to get a car certified, I learned a new and ridiculous way the government thinks. When I bought the car 2+ years ago, I transferred the ownership into my name, paid my sales tax on the purchase price and just kept it unplated, as indicated on the ownership. Now I was told because it is also labeled as 'unfit' a 10 permit cannot be issued. What I was told was that I should transferred the ownership but also get a 10 permit back then, even if I wasn't going to drive it for 2 years. This way it would just be unplated, but 'fit'. In this case, I could get another 10 permit today without a problem and go on my way to certification. So if you're following the Gov't of Ontario logic: the car was safer to drive in a slightly @#$%ed up state two years ago with crap brakes and a hole in the floor, than it is today with all the work I've done.

So my plan B is now to drive, unplated up the street to the corner where there is a Registered Inspection Station, but they don't know me so there was the fear of serious scrutiny. I swung by yesterday had a chat and they seem reasonable, so I made an appt for this morning. I started it up then... the wipers died with a blown fuse, which is kind of a good thing because it gave me a chance to soak the arm pivot points again, since I did it the first time two years ago. It also motivated me to change the blades because, upon reflection, they were borderline at best.

So note to self: carry spare fuses.

[reidyyz]

Well, mission accomplished! Certified and plated and now on the road.

I'd like to thank everyone that contributed to this project to date, but I know it's not over. It is far from "concourse" show level, but "good enough because I want to drive it" level will do for now. My first official drive was taking my daughter to her friends house and the smells and sounds are going to take some getting used to, but Jesus, it's way more fun to drive than I thought.

One side story that could help in the future, the replacement wiper blades I ended up getting were NAPA Exactfit model pn 6-013-1. At $26 a pop, not cheap, but Canadian Tire didn't have anything of their 6 brands that fits even though their self serve computron says they do.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

My first official drive was taking my daughter to her friends house and the smells and sounds are going to take some getting used to, but Jesus, it's way more fun to drive than I thought.

I know that the brakes, acceleration, handling, and all that can easily be beaten by your basic Toyota Corolla, but I get more fun from driving my spiders than from any other cars. Hard to explain.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

I'm on vacation this week and still went into work as they had a co. BBQ and, I'm never one to turn down a free meal. I decided to go in to bring the newly minted project to show the boys, which they would talk shit about it, because that's just what happens in a healthy work environment. I stuffed my face and on my way out, the V.P. of my department commented that it was nice looking, my only response was "just for the record, this is no indication of you paying us TOO much, this car did NOT cost a lot!!" Like I said, we talk shit to each other, at all levels because nobody is safe.

On the way home, I stopped for gas and then it happened: It did not want to start. It turned over, had gas, brand new fuel pump whirring away, positive fuel pressure (vis-a-vis my fuel gauge modification) so I tinkered with the ignition system as it was one of the few systems I didn't even touch over these last two years. After jiggling the wires, tapping on various related components, I pulled off the distributor cap and thankfully I had some emery cloth and cleaned all the points of contact in particular the spring loaded center post which was quite dirty and it fired up and off I went. So, thats the next point of interest I'll be looking deeper into.

And after the obligatory shit talking, there were still words of praise from the boys.

[reidyyz]

So, It happened again. On my way to work (30Min drive), stopping 2 mins short for gas, the car would not start. Healthy batt and starter turn, fuel qty and pressure good. In the 20 mins or so surfing possibilities, I found a lot of references to ignition system components overheating on a long run. Coil? Ballast resistor? Any guidance is greatly appreciated. After the 15-20 mins surfing, fired right up. Just wondering what the most probable cause could be.

Thanks,

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Hi Henry, I have two thoughts:

1. The engine is flooded. What carburetor setup do you have? Stock? If it does it again, try cranking while holding the gas pedal to the floor. Don't pump it.

2. Something in the ignition is overheating. This usually happens with electronic ignition when the Ignition Control Module (ICM) overheats and stops working. Upon cooling, it works fine until it gets too hot again. But, I'm assuming that you have the standard coil and points? If by chance you have an aftermarket ignition system, like Pertronix or the like, I've heard that those can be problematic when hot.

It does sound like a heat related issue. Not the coolant overheating, but something in the carburetor or ignition is crapping out when the engine gets hot.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

Ok, I'll make a note if it as I've pulled the carb out to rebuild and replace the sticky throttle cable.

Thanks again

[Nut124]

Hi Henry, I have two thoughts:

1. The engine is flooded. What carburetor setup do you have? Stock? If it does it again, try cranking while holding the gas pedal to the floor. Don't pump it.

-Bryan

I suspect this as well ^^

A cold engine needs gas pedal pumping to start. A hot engine sometimes just needs air to dry up, open throttle, no pumping.

[reidyyz]

I have a 32 ADFA carb and I started taking it apart and cleaning it. I mooched an ultrasonic cleaner from a work associate and it cleans up real nice. I waited until I got the rebuild kit before I got too deep into further disassembly, but hit a snag. On the upper throttle (top of the three piece carb body), I removed the two tiny screws holding the upper solo butterfly plate (choke plate??) but the screws are not cooperative going back in. So I have a few ideas 1- get new, un@#$%ed screws, 2- over size with bigger screws or last resort, 3- oversize and pop rivet the plate on. It was at this point I decided against a full all shafts, springs and butterflies out rebuild, however, I did pull and clean the jets and emulsion tubes, replaced the needle and seat as well as the ICU solenoid. There was a significant amount of carbon at the bottom of the cleaner with every stage, especially since I did a once over with carb cleaner before and ran the parts twice. My theory is that the screws are installed long and then either cut or purposely mushroomed as a lock feature to prevent backing out. They were stiff, but not impossible to remove, just impossible to reinstall.

Also on the agenda this winter is looking into getting the original rims blasted and powder coated with the trim rings re-chromed. They're currently black/silver two tone, same as here (not my car):

https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/198 ... pider-2000

They're not super fancy, but I like the look and they're original, so why not.

[bobplyler]

The cloverleaf wheels ONLY came on the 1979. And the 1980 had a 85 MPH speedometer. Both of which indicate the referenced car was a 1979.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

My theory is that the screws are installed long and then either cut or purposely mushroomed as a lock feature to prevent backing out. They were stiff, but not impossible to remove, just impossible to reinstall.

Correct. The choke plate screws, and the throttle plate screws, are "crimped / mushroomed / expanded" so that they can't back out and be "swallowed" by the engine. What this means in practice is that, once the screws are removed, you either have to get new screws and use Loc-tite to secure them, or buy a new shaft.

I try really hard to avoid removing these screws. When it is really necessary, I use a Dremel tool to grind off the mushroomed threads, then carefully back them out, then clean up the threads in the shaft with a tap, then use a new screw with some Loc-tite to hold it. Pierce Manifolds sells new screws.

Since you have removed the screws, try getting new screws (Pierce Manifolds) and then securing them with Loc-tite. Clean up the threads of the shaft if you have the appropriate tap. You may need a new choke plate shaft.

-Bryan