My '76 so far....

[reidyyz]

I'm a meathead, I meant the INT as I have one post available, but reading your explanation, the 16 was stuck in my head as I typed my last response for some odd reason.

And thanks again to you both for the ign sw. breakdown from before, it's great to keep notes.


Regards

[reidyyz]

I swear, one day I will be in a position to give to this forum, but until that day, here is another ridiculous question:
I redid the glove box door with brand new, slightly thicker wood. When it comes to mounting the panel back on the hinge brackets, has anybody used new nut inserts, like the original and where were they procured? Reused the old inserts? Some third mound option?

Thanks,

[18Fiatsandcounting]

No worries, Henry, I'm a patient person.

I've always reused the old inserts. It's been a while since I have done this, but my recollection is that I used a flat-tip drill bit (I think it's called a Forstner bit) to drill a hole for the insert, being careful to to break through the opposite side of course. I then screwed in the old inserts (they are threaded on the outside), with perhaps a bit of epoxy on the outer edge to hold them securely. Since they are metal into wood, they don't seem to vibrate loose.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

Threaded on the outside? Didn't even think of that, that's fantastic. I was just assuming it was dropped in and potted with the epoxy taking the brunt. Would a 1/4" bit be too big?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Would a 1/4" bit be too big?

I don't know for sure, but you could take one of the threaded inserts out, and use a scrap piece of wood to get your technique (and bit size) perfected (without epoxy) before moving to the actual glovebox door.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

I got the inserts out without destroying the holes using a 10/32 bolt and jam nut. I measured the hole to be close enough to 1/4" that I will try and perfect my technic on a scrap piece before moving on to the panel. Thx as always.

[reidyyz]

*technique

[reidyyz]

After a lot of practice, I transfered the inserts and the glove box door is installed. The rest of the interior is a shambles, but not the g/b door, so I have hope.

As I've been discovering PO mods, my deletes (smog) and fixes I've been updating my wiring diagrams but have come across a curiosity that has gone unnoticed until after I replaced my ignition switch. I have a green/black crimped with a grey wire at the female terminal together connected to what was 16. I have jumped it over to 15 (with existing P and LB/B) but I see no grey wire to/from 16 on my wiring diagram? The green/black I see goes to the fuel pump (120) through connector C23. Does anyone have a different diagram than my '76 that might shed some light, or steer me in the right direction.

Thx

[18Fiatsandcounting]

My wiring diagram shows the grey and green/black wires connected together at C23, but I think in your case, the grey wire is connected to the green/black wire at Terminal 16 on the switch, rather than at C23. It's the same outcome, so it doesn't make a difference where it's connected.

The fuel pump relay is only powered when the oil pressure is sufficient (thus powering the fuel pump), so the green black wire was added to Terminal 16 on the ignition switch to power the fuel pump when the engine is cranking (but with little oil pressure until it starts). Terminal 16 is powered only when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.

Connecting the grey and green/black wires to Terminal 15 will work, but this means your fuel pump will run whenever the ignition switch is in the "start" or "run" positions. That's OK, but if you got in an accident and the engine stalled but the ignition were stilled turned on, the fuel pump would continue to run. Could be a safety issue if fuel is leaking as a result of the accident.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

This is a result of changing my ign sw. The original had a 16 (double 16 prongs, actually) to a newer one without 16. The mech pump was deleted long ago, or never installed. Plus I replaced the old elex pump with a new one, for reliability reasons. I see what you are talking about where the two wires meet at the 16 terminal on the ign sw vs. connector C23, so I'll be documenting that change so there's no confusion later.

As always, you're a wealth of info

[reidyyz]

Oh, surprise! A new question!
So, I got a new clock and after perusing the wiring diagram, checking and rechecking, I am hoping if anyone can confirm my research for the connections between C31 and the clock:

-W/R from rheostat to bulb

-R/B from C31, from C26, from 74(cig. lighter) power in to +ive post

-W/B from C31, from C24, from 30 (turn signal flasher) -ive post

Thanks

[18Fiatsandcounting]

That sounds correct to me. To restate: The red/black wire goes through C31 and C26 ultimately to the cigarette lighter, providing the +12V for the clock mechanism. The white/black is the ground for the clock, ultimately coming from a ground connection at the holder for the turn signal flasher. The power for the clock bulb is the white/red wire through C26 and C38 and ultimately to the panel lighting rheostat.

-Bryan

[reidyyz]

Excellent, as always thank you Sensei Bryan.

[reidyyz]

So, it's been some time and the current status is good. I got it running, which had me really concerned considering all the smog and wiring deletions I did (about 40 ft of wiring alone) that are no longer an issue here in Ontario. However I'm still working through items to get it certified and plated to get it on the road.

But now I have to:
1) replace the wiper motor gear, as it got messed up with the wiper arm pivot points being seized, since cleaned and freed up.
2) deal with one of my my reverse light sockets that is rotten so I drilled out the rivets and pulled it out of the light assy, because I don't want to pay $300 because of a $6 socket. Does anyone have experience in replacing one of these or a close enough replacement part (different model car etc...) that can either be riveted in, or epoxied in place?
3) fabricate a bracket to hold the parking brake cable off the exhaust pipe, where it is slowly eating through the outer sheathing. The plan is to mount the bracket to a new 1 5/8" exhaust clamp that is on the pipe, keeping a clearance and extending the life of the cable.

And once it's off the jackstands, there will be more.....

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Does anyone have experience in replacing one of these or a close enough replacement part (different model car etc...) that can either be riveted in, or epoxied in place?

Yes. In my case, I drilled out the rivets and replaced it with a good bulb socket from another assembly, using small machine screws to hold it in place. I've also heard that Walmart sells generic automotive bulb sockets that work pretty well, perhaps with some riveting to hold it in place. Auto parts stores also sell generic bulb sockets which could be riveted or epoxied.

3) fabricate a bracket to hold the parking brake cable off the exhaust pipe, where it is slowly eating through the outer sheathing.

Is your parking brake cable below or above the exhaust pipe? I know it sounds counterintuitive, but I believe the brake cable goes beneath the pipe because it's cooler that way.

-Bryan