Swapping Rear Shocks on a '78

[SteinOnkel]

Hello Internet,

I'm looking to replace the worn out suspension components one by one. Next up are the shocks in the rear. My books say to remove the lines to the brake calipers. That would require bleeding the brakes which I would like to avoid.

Is there a trick so you don't have to remove the pressure line to the calipers?

Thanks
Manuel

[DieselSpider]

Hello Internet,

I'm looking to replace the worn out suspension components one by one. Next up are the shocks in the rear. My books say to remove the lines to the brake calipers. That would require bleeding the brakes which I would like to avoid.

Is there a trick so you don't have to remove the pressure line to the calipers?

Thanks
Manuel

That sounds more like in the section on removing the rear axle however to simply replace the shock its:

• Jack up the back of the vehicle until the rear wheels clear the ground and place on jack stands under the body support points
  Remove rear wheels
  Raise axle to release tension on the top nut of the shock
  Remove top nut on shock
  Remove lower fasteners and remove shock

Installation is the reverse.

[rridge]

The problem with replacing rear shocks on a Spider is that the shocks are trapped inside the rear springs. The springs must be removed to get the shocks in and out. After freeing the upper shock mount, the factory service manual suggests raising the body to allow the rear axle to drop as far as possible and then using a crow bar to pry the coil spring from its upper body mount and then lifting the spring out to allow access to disconnect the lower shock mount. Many owners instead use a small jack to raise up the opposite wheel while the axle hangs at full drop. As one rear wheel goes up, the axle housing drops further on the opposite side, freeing the spring without first prying or compressing it.

[DieselSpider]

The problem with replacing rear shocks on a Spider is that the shocks are trapped inside the rear springs. The springs must be removed to get the shocks in and out. After freeing the upper shock mount, the factory service manual suggests raising the body to allow the rear axle to drop as far as possible and then using a crow bar to pry the coil spring from its upper body mount and then lifting the spring out to allow access to disconnect the lower shock mount. Many owners instead use a small jack to raise up the opposite wheel while the axle hangs at full drop. As one rear wheel goes up, the axle housing drops further on the opposite side, freeing the spring without first prying or compressing it.

Just realized there are pages missing from my suspension manual. It stops at 44-23 and then skips to 44-27.

[ORFORD2004]

On my 83, the shocks pass in the bottom hole. You support the axle and pass the shock thrue the hole. If you remove the spring, unscrew the T on the axle because the brake line will flex a lot in order to remove tension from the spring.( you have to support the car and lower the axle)
So, remove the top bolt with the car on the ground. (both side)
Jack the car from under the axle in the center. Secure the axle as high you can go.
Remove the lower bolt and pass the shock thrue the hole.
When you install the new shock, install the top nut first.

[SteinOnkel]

So, I figured it out.

Yes, the shocks and springs need to be removed at the same time. What you do is loosen the top nuts (easy), then jack up the car. Now your remove the brake regulator from the rear axle and the two sway bar end links. Then, lower the axle down as far it will go. You now have access (in the Fiat sense of the word) to the bottom nut of the shock through the spring. What I mean by that is that you can turn it an 1/16th rotation at a time. This car seems to be big on fasteners like that. Removing the old shocks is easy, you just pull them all the way down and because they are blown they won't stretch out again. Then you just wiggle both the spring and the shock out of the car. Put the new ones into the spring (with them halfway-compressed due to the packing strip, leave that on) and wiggle it all back into place. Then cut the packing strip and wiggle it through the top hole. Tighten everything back up and you're done.

No idea why my manual says something about mucking about with the calipers. I've noticed it says a lot of things that don't make sense - typical of Haynes and the like.

Where can I get an honest factory manual for the car?

Cheers
Manuel

[tima01864]

https://www.mirafiori.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=71

[wetminkey]

Gotta register at Mirafiori to use that link,...
Midwest-Bayless has one who's content seems to resemble my Fiat Shop Manual:
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-7293- ... 5-new.aspx
spiral bound, too.