Ignition problems

2thmaker · Post by **2thmaker** » Wed May 17, 2006 11:31 am

I'm at a loss here, hopefully someone can tell me how to proceed. I have an '81 Spider that won't start when I turn on the ingnition. I stored the car over the winter outside under cover, but when I went to start it nothing happened. After trying to trace down the problem this is where I am. I've run a line from the battery to the solenoid with a switch in it. If I turn the ignition on and then close the direct line switch, the car will start and continue to run. I've checked and cleaned the connections to the ignition switch and they look good. The wiring diagram I have shows a relay for automatics but not for standard tranys, which is what I have. So does this mean my ignition switch is bad? How do I test my ignition switch? Is there something else that I should look at first?
Thanks,
Ted

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed May 17, 2006 3:32 pm

you'll need either a voltmeter or test light to do any diagnosis. You can check from the starter back to the ign switch for power. There is a connector on the left inner fenderwell for the starter solenoid wiring. You could have a voltage drop there.

spider2081 · Post by **spider2081** » Wed May 17, 2006 9:47 pm

I agree with Mark I would check the single red wire connector (C6). I believe if the brown wire that feeds the ignition switch had a problem your headlights would not work either. The brown wire feeds 2 sets of contacts in the ignition switch. One set is for the starter the other is for the lights.
The ignition switch starter contacts became intermittent on my car so I installed a 12 volt Bosh 30Amp relay in the circuit. The ignition switch seems handle the current required to work the relay but not the current of the starter solenoid. I had measured the solenoid current and I think it was around 5 amps. The relay draws less than 1 Amp. It has worked for a couple years now.

2thmaker · Post by **2thmaker** » Sat May 20, 2006 8:36 pm

Thanks guys for your suggestions! I checked voltage at the connector in the front and back at the ignition switch following the brown wire which had power at both places. The red wire going out of the switch to the solenoid wasn't getting anything though when the switch was turned. I shorted across the two and voila it worked! So it looks like I've a bad ignition switch. Have either of you repaired one of these or am I best to just buy a new one. Looks like they're around $160.
Thanks again for your tips!!!

Ted

spider2081 · Post by **spider2081** » Sat May 20, 2006 9:04 pm

I have not tried to repair one. I have seen others say they had good luck opening the back and cleaning the contacts. I would try and clean it. Also I have a good used one with key from an 81 that I would like $50 + shipping for. It is tricky to get the switch assembly out of the colum you need the key and a small straight slot screw driver to do it.

2thmaker · Post by **2thmaker** » Sat May 20, 2006 10:10 pm

Thanks for letting me know you have one for sale. I might take you up on it, but first I think I'll try to fix this one. I down loaded a pretty good article from miafiori.com on how to repair the switch. With any luck I won't destroy the dang thing in the process! If I do, you'll be the second to know (my wife will be first as she'll be hearing some expletives coming from the garage!).
Ted

spider2081 · Post by **spider2081** » Sun May 21, 2006 7:32 am

Best of luck. Really hope you can fix it.
I would then consider some of the relay mods to reduce the current flow through the switch.

John Donohue · Post by **John Donohue** » Mon May 22, 2006 8:17 pm

I just replaced my ignition switch about 2 weeks ago. I got it new from International Auto, and it wasnt too bad to install. There are a few postings in this electrical forum that cover the tricks about getting the switch out. There are markings on the back of the switch that help straighten out what wire goes where. Believe me, I am nothing more than a weekend mechanic, and it was pretty easy for me - however, I have to hand it to those that helped with their suggestions on this forum, I would still be trying to figure out how to remove the switch without them!

2thmaker · Post by **2thmaker** » Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:58 am

Well I FINALLY got around to fixing the ignition switch. (Took freaking forever to find a free day to devote to it.) Taking the ignition out wasn't too bad and the tips given here were helpful- Thanks! I completely disassembled the switch; removing the soldered wires; drilling out the rivets; pulling the spades out; and cleaning off the contacts in it. Then reassembled it back together using 2x20mm machine screws and nuts in place of the rivets. The hardest part was getting the circlip back in place as the nuts interferred some.
Once back in the car, she started up first turn of the key! Yippee!!
I'm a very poor mechanic, but the instructions I'd found from an article by Chris Courter was pretty straight forward and easy for me to follow- which was important. His instructions were for a different year switch, so I had to modify it a bit, but it seems to have been a success. If it hadn't been for finding his article, I probably would've just bought a new switch, but it sounded like the newer ones aren't of the same quaility as the OEM's, so I gave this a shot instead.
Thanks again for all the tips and guidance here!
Ted

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