Gear Reduction Starter- Wiring Question

[Fiat88]

So, I bought one of the new gear reduction starters our vendors sell and just want to make sure I wire it correctly.

Is this correct? Brown wire(lug terminal), red wire(lug terminal), and battery cable lug to starter post. On the old starter there was a red wire with a female terminal that pushed in, is this the one I solder to the new wire which is included with the starter. Thanks.

[joelittel]

So, I bought one of the new gear reduction starters our vendors sell and just want to make sure I wire it correctly.

Is this correct? Brown wire(lug terminal), red wire(lug terminal), and battery cable lug to starter post. On the old starter there was a red wire with a female terminal that pushed in, is this the one I solder to the new wire which is included with the starter. Thanks.

I'm in the same boat, and hoping for clarification.

[So Cal Mark]

the wiring is no different than the oem starter; all of the wiring from the old battery post goes on the post of the new starter, the wire with the spade connector attaches to the pigtail supplied with the starter

[joelittel]

Thanks Mark, I just wanted to be sure before committing.

[DieselSpider]

I ended up adding a high amperage relay to trigger the starter solenoid since the starter solenoid that engages the drive on some of the gear reduction starters can draw well over 10 amps. This greatly reduces the starting load on the ignition switch since it will no longer be carrying the full load of engaging that 10 to 20 amp solenoid. A generic 40 amp lighting relay which draws only a few milli-amps and cost less than $10 which is not that big an expense can extend the life of the ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter drive and flywheel ring gear making it very cheap insurance.

When the starter solenoid is not getting enough current it pulls weak so that then drive gear will not engage the flywheel as well as it should and the solenoid is not getting full pressure on its contacts which can be carrying 1 to 2 kilowatts of power to the starter motor. The partially engaged drive can flutter accelerating wear, the solenoid overheats, contacts burn and the starter motor itself then can run hot leading to premature failure of any or all the components on the starter.

Mine since it has the diesel is an extreme example of this since the starter draws 2 kilowatts. I went through 2 solenoids and 1 gear reduction starter in the first 8 months since I bought it despite the brown wire fix having been done. Now it has started consistently the same with no gradual degradation since I installed the relay to take the load of the solenoid off the ignition switch.

[joelittel]

Any chance of you having a wiring diagram I could look at?

I like the idea of adding extra insurance to protect my car, but I need to see a diagram to wrap my head around this.

[DieselSpider]

Any chance of you having a wiring diagram I could look at?

I like the idea of adding extra insurance to protect my car, but I need to see a diagram to wrap my head around this.

Hook the existing wire that triggers the starter to the coil on the relay and the other side of the coil to a ground. Run power to the switched side of the relay using the battery cable lug on the starter and a sealed fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse in it then run a lead from the output of the relay to the trigger terminal on the starter solenoid. Its pretty generic just like putting a relay on any other system be it a light, horn, etc so the basic diagram that comes on the relays packaging should suffice.

Instead of triggering the multi amp starter solenoid directly you are triggering a milli amp relay and need to provide a fused power source to feed the relay and trigger the starter.

This Video may help:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tw9QkkT2ptU

Per the diagram printed on the side of the relay the old starter trigger wire goes to terminal 85 with terminal 86 going to ground (this engages the relay when you turn the key to the start position). New 20 amp fused power goes in through terminal 30 with power to trigger the starter coming out from terminal 87.

[ShantzBoyz]

My 14 year old son and I have taken on a barn-find 78 Spider. We are not mechanics, but learning as we go - much thanks to this forum.

I'm now at the point of installing a gear reduction starter, and based on all the recommendations, I plan to install a relay for it. All the guidance is clear, but I'm curious about the best place to add the fuse on the wire to the battery. I found a wiring diagram somewhere that suggested the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible - which would lead me to put it with the battery in the trunk? Does that make sense? And are fuse holders for 6 gauge wires common?

[spider2081]

which would lead me to put it with the battery in the trunk? Does that make sense? And are fuse holders for 6 gauge wires common?

Electrically the alternator output post is the same point as the battery positive terminal located in the trunk. Many people pick up hot all the time power for relays at the alternator output terminal.

The red wire on the starter solenoid has power from the ignition switch to energize the starter solenoid. It is shown on in the wire diagram passing through a 2 pin connector C19 which I believe is located on the driver side fender well. I like to remove the red wire that comes from the ignition switch from the connector and use it to energize the relay. Then from the relay add a new wire to the starter solenoid. The gauge for this wire is #12. Some people splice the brown wires in that connector together eliminating the connector all together. The " brown wire fix" many make on their cars simply bypasses this connector which can be the source of intermittent "dreaded Click" symptoms.
The relay is used to remove the starter solenoids current from the ignition switch. The starter solenoid's contacts still carry the current for the starter motor.
A 20 amp fuse and #12 wires are adequate for your relay circuit.

[ShantzBoyz]

Thank you! That make so much more sense.