intermittant spark

[TulsaSpider]

I have had my 78 Spyder running about a week now. I was driving it today and parked it. I let it set a few min and tried to start it again cause I wanted to move it. It wouldn't start, no spark. I cleaned the coil connections. I noticed that the distributor (points type) seemed to be loose. I turned it clockwise till it stopped and it fired right up. It wouldn't start if it wasn't in this posotion. I tightened the distributor down and thought that should do it. I took it for a drive. It started fine once. then It didn't start twice more, then fired up. I brought it home and parked it, then tried to start it again, no spark again! What gives????

[TulsaSpider]

I just went out and tried to start it after about an hour 1/2 sitting and it fired right up........

[rlux4]

Have you checked the wires from the coil to the distributor? They get moved around during vacuum movement and get frayed pretty often.
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

have you checked the point gap? How is the rotor? Have the condensors been replaced recently?

[TulsaSpider]

I will inspect the distributor today. My distributor seems to be different than other pics I have seen, all the wire connections are in a straight line. (see pic) Why is this I wonder??
Are the condensors the standard variety same as say an old Chevy??? Meaning are they available at a local store? Sure hope so!

[ventura ace]

From the general appearance of things, I think it would be a good idea to pull the cap, rotor, points, distributor, wires, and coil off the car. Give them all a good thorough cleaning, then take a close look at each component and replace the ones that look like needing replacement. Be sure to clean all wire connecting points thoroughly, then reinstall. Your problem may be just a loose electrical connection, or could be electricity jumping accross oily components, bad adjusment of the points or electrical timing, or faulty components. It's best to start with clean parts and good electrical connections, adjust the gaps correctly, and troubleshoot from there.

Alvon

[rlux4]

Also, if I'm seeing the picture correctly, the black and green wires going to the dist. have uncovered spade connectors. They could be moving enough to come into contact with metal. Not so bad if the black ones do, they're probably ground anyway, but you definately don't want the green one to touch a ground. The connectors should be wrapped with electrical tape.
Ron

[TulsaSpider]

Well at work today I pulled the cap and there was a loose connection, and I found breaks in the insulation of two wires. I fixed these issues put it back together covered up those spade connectors... and so far so good! I do have one question... I took out the rotor to inpect it and when I put it back there was play in it like it wasn't a perfect fit. It fired up so.... it seems a bit strange to me...
Also, again...Are the condensors just generic condensors???
Thanks for all

[So Cal Mark]

the condensors are fairly generic, except it's hard to find units with the right bracket and length of wire unless you get the proper ones. The rotor should have a metal insert that keeps it tight on the shaft

[TulsaSpider]

Thanks Mark!! I thought that might be the case. Well it happened again... I started it with no problems about 8 or so times today with normal driving. I go to pick up my GF across town and it did the same thing, no spark. We waited about an hour or so and tried again, it fired right up. What do I do next? Change the condensors since Mark said they are generic?? This has to be related to heat somehow though so any ideas?? Car runs and drives fine otherwise!
Thanks for any ideas
Clark

[So Cal Mark]

I'd carry a test light with me, and check for power to the coil and points when the problem occurs. On my car, I switched the dual point system to use a single set of points and 1 condensor, but left the 2nd set in place. That way I have a spare and only have to switch the wire connector over if I have a failure.
In a pinch, you couid disconnect the condensor to see if you have spark. The only consequence is short points life, but at least you can get it started

[TulsaSpider]

I have checked for power to the coil when that happened the first time and there was. I didn't check for power to the points.
Why would it run great and start on short trips? Grrrr I hate electriical problems!
Clark

[rlux4]

Hang in there Clark. When I did my tranny swap back in March I had a bunch of electrical problems to deal with while I had the console off. It was very frustrating, but it all got done and everything works now, thanks to a lot of help from forum members. We're with ya buddy.
Ron

[TulsaSpider]

Thanks Ron. What choice do I have but to hang in there! LOL! I guess I'll price a coil and condensors it's been 20 years since I dealt with points, then I got frustrated and dropped in a Mallory Unilite and all was blissful thereafter!

Should there be power to both sides of the coil or just one?

[TulsaSpider]

Well I changed out the condensors and that seemed to do the trick! it hasn't happened since then!
Thanks so much!!
Clark