Car won't start, Alternator? Starter? Please HELP!

[FirstSpider]

Hey guys, I posted on here a while back that I couldn't seem to get my car to do anything when I turned the key and several users suggested that it could be the ignition switch. I replaced the switch and my car still won't start. The battery is good, yet none of my lights will work aside from the battery indicator on my instrument panel. The clock, A/C and radio still work but none of the other gauges do. It's pretty safe to say I'm stymied. Could it be the alternator or the starter? Has anyone had a problem like this before? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
Brendan.

[So Cal Mark]

sounds like a voltage drop at a connection, unless you've connected the switch incorrectly. It's not an alternator problem. Have you checked voltage, starting at the battery and working towards the starter connection and verified the ign switch connections?

[FirstSpider]

I have not tried this yet. How should I go about doing it?

[wizard124]

I have not tried this yet. How should I go about doing it?

If you dont have wiring diagrams for you model year, get them!
For checking voltages, a multimeter is best. They are pretty cheap. Read the directions for checking DC Volts, probably the 15 volt scale.

Check the voltage between the Pos and Neg terminals of your battery. Should be 12-13volts. Then check between the Pos terminal and a body ground there in the trunk (any unpainted, rustfree bolt). If it is different than the battery voltage, then you have a bad ground connection from the battery. Either clean the end connections or buy a new ground cable.

Moving to the starter. Check the positive connection and ground. Is it much less than the battery? A little V drop is expected due to the wire gauge and length of wire, there are tables for this. If you read 0, then there is a break in the wire. If there is a significant drop, then there is corrosion, a short, bad connection, etc. Then study the wire diagram to learn if this is a continuous wire or if there are connections and branches. The problem could be at any point.

This is the methodology as you go through the electrics. As you follow the diagrams, you can check your ignition connections, check your fuse block. Sometimes when you reconnect large junctions, individual plugs may not join. The multimeter contact can be pushed in from the back to check this.

Take notes, be meticulous. Electric circuits can be frustrating. Dont rush. Unless the wiring harness has been messed with, the problem will probably be on the ends where corrosion and exposure occur. Double check your ingnition switch connections. Did you blow a fuse when replacing the switch?

[4uall]

This should help http://car-service-manuals.com/catalog/fiat/124-spider


here are some good videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YxW6bc_gk8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgwR9sYN5f0

[FirstSpider]

Thanks guys, I'll get a multimeter ASAP. I can now hear the fuel pump humming behind me, does that change anything?

[wizard124]

Thanks guys, I'll get a multimeter ASAP. I can now hear the fuel pump humming behind me, does that change anything?

I can't hear mine, so u probably shouldn't either. Is it stock? Mounted properly with rubber insulator bolts? If u hear it with the key in run but the engine isn't running, then the wiring has been altered or u didnt wire the ignition switch properly.

[FirstSpider]

Thanks guys, I'll get a multimeter ASAP. I can now hear the fuel pump humming behind me, does that change anything?

I can't hear mine, so u probably shouldn't either. Is it stock? Mounted properly with rubber insulator bolts? If u hear it with the key in run but the engine isn't running, then the wiring has been altered or u didnt wire the ignition switch properly.

The Wiring has definitely been altered by the PO, there is no pink wire leading to the switch. the weird part is, the car ran fine before.

[fiat218]

I think it needs that pink wire