Grounds

[joeko575]

This may seem like a bit of a silly question, but bear with me, I'm new to the wonders of Fiat ownership. I'm looking for a comprehensive list of the ground points for my 77 Spider. I've been trying to sort through the electrical, and I'd like to start by cleaning all of the grounds since I hear that corroded grounds account for a lot of problems. Anyone know where I can find this? Thanks in advance.

-Joe

[TX82FIAT]

Joe, you may have more or less grounds than the basic depending on who owned the vehicle before you and what has been done to it. Some of the basic grounds...and I'm sure there are more.

under the dash near your knee
On the inside drivers fender/engine bay wall
On the inside passenger fender/engine bay wall
In the trunk near the drivers wheel well
Chasis to bell housing strap
Carb to manifold strap - I've never been a fan of multiple ground straps - One good clean braided strap should be all you need.
Ground connection to the battery itself
Any relay specific grounds? - for example, do yourheadlights ground to the headlight bucket, the fendor hub or some other grounding point?

[unkel1969spider]

When I first got my 69 124 I was pulled over because the police could not see my tail lites and all my lights were dim...I just went through all my electrical starting with the alternator and cleaned all the grounds and used a spray called Fluid film I could not believe the results!!!! Still good after 15 years.....

[4uall]

I followed this and it made significant improvements

http://www.mirafiori.com/faq/content/el ... estore.htm

[RRoller123]

Here is my approach, replaced the pod with a buss bar connector. Has worked flawlessly for the past 1/2 year, so far.

Pete

[4uall]

Pete wins

[RRoller123]

I do admit that I have to check them for tightness every few months! But the resistance to ground is about as close to zero as you could get.

[RRoller123]

4Uall asked for some more details. Happy to oblige: The setup is pretty easy. The 10AWG brown wire (central ground) that you see goes to the old stud that the ground pod was mounted to. The other end goes to the lower left point on the buss bar, and is electrically common with every other connection point on the buss bar. I just wire brushed the existing chassis stud to get a good paint free connection, crimped on a heavy 10 AWG ring terminal and attached with nut and star washer to the existing chassis stud; gives a good connection. I clipped off all the terminals from the various existing ground wires and attached new ring terminals (RINGs because they stay on if the screw comes loose. They are obviously NOT well connected with a loose screw, but they won't go flopping around in the engine compartment where they could cause a big problem). I also soldered these connections, but that is a point of much disagreement here on the forum and I won't go there. At any rate, make sure the crimps are made with a high quality ratcheting crimper and resist a 10 lb minimum pull test after crimping. The buss bar itself is rated at 60A, more than enough obviously. The buss bar was mounted with 2 sheet metal screws just below the old pod location. The only problem so far is that these buss bars are not automotive (I couldn't find what I wanted in "automotive" style) so I need to check the screw tightness every few months. Not a big deal. No failures sos far, works perfectly. This, combined with relays for the headlights and new sealed beam bulbs, at least DOUBLED my light intensity. I have no need whatsoever to change over to halogen bulbs, with the new wiring it is more than bright enough with inexpensive sealed beams. I replaced the pods on both sides of the car, but NOT the one in in the passenger compartment. The environment is far more forgiving in there.

Pete

[rodman]

Here is my approach, replaced the pod with a buss bar connector. Has worked flawlessly for the past 1/2 year, so far.

Pete

I like this ideal but think maybe connector like this one will be good just have to change all the ends

[RRoller123]

The one you picture has isolated ground sets, i.e. the points are not connected side to side, only across, hence the application of the brass buss bar in the one I used, which runs end to end and commonly ties all the points. They do make add-on clips that you can put across each set, side to side, in the style conector that you show, but they seemed a little clugey when I tried them. I had a devil of a time finding a fully common buss connector system that would handle the amperage and fit on the fender wall too. But if we do find anything smaller, I am sure open to trying it! Would be easy to change it out.

[4uall]

Pete, where did you get yours?

[RRoller123]

http://www.youdoitelectronics.com/

You Do It Electronics in Needham, MA. We affectionately call it "you blew it".

It is an engineer's dream state, walking in there you could mistake it for the set of "The Big Bang Theory"

Pete