Headlight Relays & Dim Dashlights

[srwilson]

I finally got around to installing two relays for my headlights today. Is that suppose to brighten my dash lights too or is there more I need to do?

The headlights do indeed seem to be a bit brighter than before but I couldn't really see much difference in the dash lights. It could be it was just to bright in my garage to see the difference. Maybe I should shut the lights off.

[srwilson]

Went back and looked again with the lights off this time and I believe they are a little brighter, maybe. I think I'll do the famous brown wire fix tomorrow and see if that brightens things up a bit more.

Maybe a new 95 amp alternator. Does anyone have an extra they want to get rid of cheap?

[vandor]

It depends how you wired your headlight relays, but normally they do not include the parking light/dash light circuit.

[srwilson]

The Famous Brown wire installation went well. Really couldn't notice much difference in the brightness.

I did take a look at the alternator and can see it is a 55 amp unit and not a 65. I was thinking or had thought I'd read somewhere that from 76 on they were using 65 amp alternators. I'm guessing the original has been replaced with a lower amp unit. Anyway I'm thinking an upgrade might be worth while.

Back to the dim dash lights. Does anyone have a write-up on a dash light relay scheme or some secret sauce for my dim dash?

One thing I did check (because it was easy and I was working in the trunk) was the voltage drop on the trunk light circuit. One lead on the battery terminal and the other on the light bracket and a whopping 1v drop!!! Ouch... More investigation there for sure.

[geert]

Hallo,

others can correct me if I'm wrong,
but in my opinion it doesn't make much sense in using a relay in the circuit for the dashboard lights.(low in watt, hardly any relevant resistance in the wires ( even long and small diameter))
- clean the glass on the inside of the gauges
- control the bulbs, try new ones. The old ones are often dusty and blackish (compare old & new 'on the bench' ( or in the trunk if that's convenient )
- remove the 'rheostat' : it's a resistor and it only give you the choice between dim and very dim, so useless.
-control and clean all the contacts in the circuit : on the bulbs and ground contact .

If the lights are dim with a good battery on a non-running car, than a stronger alternator will not change anything
( only if lights are dim with wipers, fan, stereo, all lights on ...)

Hope this is of some help.

success.

groeten, Geert.

[vandor]

The 65 amp alternator came on some 1980s, and most Spiders after 1981.
1976-80 most of them had the 55A unit.

[srwilson]

The 65 amp alternator came on some 1980s, and most Spiders after 1981.
1976-80 most of them had the 55A unit.

Hey thanks, Csaba.

I thought I'd read differently somewhere so I went looking. Found it.
http://www.international-auto.com/fiat- ... rnator.cfm

I have no idea, so...

[TX82FIAT]

I put a few new bulbs in the 82' and now it is kida funny looking because some of the guages are clearly brighter than the others. This leads me to believe that new bulbs may help provided your grouning pods are clean.

[vandor]

Hey thanks, Csaba.

I thought I'd read differently somewhere so I went looking. Found it.
http://www.international-auto.com/fiat- ... rnator.cfm

I have no idea, so...

IAP has a great bunch of guys, but they don't have a lot of practical experience. My knowledge comes frm actually working on hundreds of Spiders.

[vandor]

I put a few new bulbs in the 82' and now it is kida funny looking because some of the guages are clearly brighter than the others. This leads me to believe that new bulbs may help provided your grouning pods are clean.

Even new, those bulbs come in three different wattages. They have different part numbers and I remember that the middle number has the highest wattage.

[RRoller123]

FYI: Daniel Stern Lighting has a lot of bulb info. I changed the turn signal bulbs as he suggested when I put his DRL/Turn module in and the result was fantastic. Well worth checking it out.

[srwilson]

Geert, Just to check things out I pulled the instrument panel and checked all the bulbs for dirt and cleaned the contacts as well as I could and then checked the bulbs with a power supply.

I was surprise to see that the bulbs were quite clean and even on a power supply they're not super bright. But hey that's what you get for 3 watts, right?

Csaba, do you remember what the highest watt bulb was? All the white lights are 3 watt bulbs on mine.

RRoller, I went and looked at the DRL module and that looks pretty sweet. That might get in my shopping cart someday

My head lights are much better after adding the relays and I feel well worth the time and effort.
I've decided that there's nothing really wrong with the dash lights and the problem was just my expectations needed to be realigned. I think I'm actually staring to like the low warm glow

Edit: oh I see IAP has 5 watt bulbs for the dash! Maybe a richer warmer glow yet!

[vandor]

>Csaba, do you remember what the highest watt bulb was? All the white lights are 3 watt bulbs on mine.

I do not remember, but I thought they were lower than that. Like 1.6, 1.8 and 2.2, or somesuch. But as I said, I don't remember

[redcars]

If you put in 194 bulbs they are 4 watt.

[srwilson]

Found new bulbs at a local shop, Sylvania 2825 13.8V 5 watt, and installed them tonight. They brightened things up quite a bit more. I can see the dials at a glance now which is good. I'm quite pleased

I also fixed my clock (stem had been pulled out) and replaced it's cloudy lens. I can actually set the correct time and see it now!!! Sweet!!!