soldering vs. mechanical connections

Gotta love that wiring . . .
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eman2112

soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by eman2112 »

For everyone that looks to make quick splices in wires just to get things working; I say this. Always take the time to make perfect solder joints with heat shrink tubing which can be slipped over the connection after. Save your self a lot of trouble from trying to find shorts later on just to figure out that the butt connector was not seated or crimped properly. Just solder it and use shrink tubing to cover the joint. Our cars demand a lot of preventive maint. Save your selves some headaches.
Now saying all that... I am an aircraft mechanic and we never use any mechanical but connectors or quick splices. Lives depend on it. So why trust you beloved fiat and your life to the same BS connectors. Do it right the first time. Drive her again another day.
Danno

Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by Danno »

Apparently you feel so strongly about this that you had to post it like 5 or 6 times.
htchevyii
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by htchevyii »

There's a lot of controversy about what is the best. I've heard that soldered joints are more likely to fatigue and break, but the solder also keeps corrosion out. I don't think that you will find a new car with Soldered joints, but that may just be because they cost more. The cheapie parts store connectors are a no go, buy quality connectors and a quality crimper and you won't have issues. They even have connectors that have shrink tubing around them that makes a goo when heated to help seal out moisture. Just giving some other options.
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4uall
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by 4uall »

Danno wrote:Apparently you feel so strongly about this that you had to post it like 5 or 6 times.

ROTFLMAO :lol: This is what happens when we "drunk post". All kidding aside I have used both crimp and solder with no issues............................................yet :shock:
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by Danno »

4uall wrote:
Danno wrote:Apparently you feel so strongly about this that you had to post it like 5 or 6 times.

ROTFLMAO :lol: This is what happens when we "drunk post". All kidding aside I have used both crimp and solder with no issues............................................yet :shock:
I guess I shouldn't be like that to newer members that don't know me. They might take me seriously and EVERYBODY who knows me knows to NOT take me seriously...
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Redline
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by Redline »

I think you should differentiate between those crappy single-crimp connectors ("Lucas" connectors) that every kid uses to install their stereo and proper double-crimp connectors, which almost never cause problems.
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by wikkid »

I use Posi-Lock connectors, even on my motorcycles where water and vibration are definite issues. They work great. Posi-taps are also great for tapping into a wire without any stripping of the insulation.
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divace73
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by divace73 »

Redline is correct, if it can be avoided use proper crimps and avoid soldering, even though I have soldered connections in my car, if I can I use the double crimp, the solder stiffend up a wire that should be flexible to allow for movement and vibration. If you do use solder make sure that connector/crimp and a portion of the wire behind it is firmly secured so there is no possibility for the soldered part to flex.
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by focodave »

4Uall,
Please notice that Danno posted at 7-something in the morning.
I hope he wasn't too drunk at that time of day!
Not that some of us haven't been there, though...
Dave
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by spider2081 »

This debate comes up about once a year. So I might as well put in my opinion! I have been employed for the past 46 years in the general aviation industry as an avionic tech. For over 20 of those years I was a vocational instructor teaching aircraft electrical and electronic maintenance and repair.
The industry transitioned from solder to crimp in almost all areas of aircraft wiring.
Soldering is a skill few individuals can learn on their own. Proper solder tip size, solder and heat ranges and techniques are much more critical than most people ever dreamed. A good solder connection should take less than 2 seconds to complete. If one is not skilled enough or does not have the proper tools to complete one that quickly the connection suffers.
In many cases the physical position of the needed electrical connection makes soldering a compromise. In some cases (soldering above one's face) is simply not safe.
Solder connections have a proven stress point where the solder wicking stops on the conductors. A flex point is required with no solder, the diameter of the wires conductor, before the insulation starts. If this is not maintained the wire under vibration tends to break where the insulation on the wire begins after the solder. Installing shrink tubing over soldered connections does not prevent this stress point. In fact I have seen the shrink tubing hold a broken wire so it makes an intermittent connection..
Over the years I have seem many more bad solder connections causing problems than crimp connections.
Crimping is easier to learn than soldering.
Quality crimp terminals come in various types. AMP manufactures a good quality line of terminals.
Quality crimping tools are affordable for the home mechanic.
Environmental crimps are a little expensive however there shouldn't be too many needed in making repairs or mods to our cars.
There are times when I solder connections on my cars but at least 90% of my connections are crimped and most are not environmental.
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RRoller123
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by RRoller123 »

One area to watch out for is the crimp tool itself. It is important for the home mechanic (us generally) to spend a couple more bucks and get a ratcheting one. They come with an adjustment screw near the ratchet head to adjust the depth of crimp. This is absolutely critical. Mine came with what appeared to be a proper factory adjustment, then I noticed a few crimps letting go under fairly low pull stresses. They should withstand at least 10 pounds of pull force, and it takes a little fiddling with the adjustment and testing on scrap pieces to get it right. Don't skip this step!
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by Danno »

pfft. You all know I'm gonna just strip the wire with my teeth, twist the connection and hope the bare wires don't touch other bare wires.
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RRoller123
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by RRoller123 »

Hahahah! I used to do that back in the day in the factory, and I have a small groove in a front tooth to show for it. (not kidding! :( )
'80 FI Spider 2000
'74 and '79 X1/9 (past)
'75 BMW R75/6
2011 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Ext Cab 4WD/STD BED
2002 Edgewater 175CC 80HP 4-Stroke Yamaha
2003 Jaguar XK8
2003 Jaguar XKR
2021 Jayco 22RB
2019 Bianchi Torino Bicycle
jimincalif
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Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by jimincalif »

Two words - "wire nuts"

:wink:
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Danno

Re: soldering vs. mechanical connections

Post by Danno »

jimincalif wrote:Two words - "wire nuts"

:wink:
Who you calling "nuts"?
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