TX82FIAT wrote:You could have a couple issues at the same time makeing it harder to diagnose. First, did you test the voltage with the car on and the car off? Second, is it the original ignition switch? the voltage test is required to see if you have a charging issue or a battery issue. The fan does not run through the ignition switch like almost everything else including the headlights on a stock set up. If your alternator is not charging the system for a variety of reasons (regulator, grounds, lose wire, belt, age) then your battery is running down and is more prone to fail. Does you battery hold a charge? A voltage meter is only a couple bucks at harbor freight.
I'm going to catch hell for this one.... In the abscense of any testing equiptment, you could hook a running car up to the spider using jumper cables the same way you would jump start the car. start the spider up and let it run for a few heating cycles to see if your fan cause a stall and your headlights work.
Most likely it is something in the charging system (bettery or alternator) however, the possability exists that you have an ignition switch issue as well.
I measured the voltage on the battery terminal "engine off" 12.3V measure it again on the same terminal "engine on" 13.9V.TX82FIAT wrote:Try measuring it from the battery terminals with the engine on and off. The 14.61V at the alternator terminals is very strong with engine on. I would verify that there is not too much of a fall off from the alternator through the ground to the negative terminal. If you do not have an original switch that could be part of the problem with the headlights as i am told the switches made in china and russia are not very good quality.
Hopefully you will not need to start testing circuits to find the week link.
TX82FIAT wrote:Well, the good news is that should rule out the battery and the alternator. It does not rule out a voltage regulator or internal voltage regulator just yet. As you turn the lights on the voltage regulator should in teory adjust for the increased demand.
Yes, i took measurement "engine on" with highbeam on, radio on, wiper motor on, hazard on, and i am getting 12.6 v - but i can see that the lights dims just a little - my rpm is at 900. i let it run until the cooling fan turn on then the car dies. i start it again leaving everything as is the will not start. raditator fan still on. but when i turn off the headlight and put it on parking light on the car starts. where is this voltage regulator located that was mentioned?81SPIDERMATT wrote:TX82FIAT wrote:Well, the good news is that should rule out the battery and the alternator. It does not rule out a voltage regulator or internal voltage regulator just yet. As you turn the lights on the voltage regulator should in teory adjust for the increased demand.
AGREED..... did you do voltage at the battery car running after headlights on,,, fan on ...wipers on and such... either or all ??
also autozone can hook up a tester and tell you quick
Keith, I measured the voltage from the coil terminal, first measurement I place the + probe on the positive side of the coil and place the neg probe on the body of the engine - with engine on. I am getting 12.9 to 13.2V.majicwrench wrote:Your charging system working fine. It IS NOT your voltage reg giving you issues.
Need to find where the volt is dropping. Start by hooking voltmeter to coil positive, should show system voltage as car is running. Now start turning things on. Voltage should not drop much, never below 12 volts. What does it read when car dies??
Keith
Alright, more testing done. I place the +probe on the coil terminal and let the car run, Voltage reads at 13.1 -13.2, I turn on the lights - voltage reads at 13.1, turn on the hazard lights - voltage reads at 13.1, turn on the radio with amp voltage reads at 12.8 - 13.1v - Car Temp reach 210 and the fan kicks in - Voltage went from 13.0V to 11.80 up to 13.V down to 10.8 up 12. V down to 9.8 then the car stalled. When the engine turn off voltage reads at 11.9 as final reading. Its seems like the radiator fan is sucking up all energy of the car...ronj81 wrote:Keith, I measured the voltage from the coil terminal, first measurement I place the + probe on the positive side of the coil and place the neg probe on the body of the engine - with engine on. I am getting 12.9 to 13.2V.majicwrench wrote:Your charging system working fine. It IS NOT your voltage reg giving you issues.
Need to find where the volt is dropping. Start by hooking voltmeter to coil positive, should show system voltage as car is running. Now start turning things on. Voltage should not drop much, never below 12 volts. What does it read when car dies??
Keith
Then I measured the voltage again placing the probe on the positive side of coil and place the neg probe on the negative side of the coil - engine on, radio on and head lights on. I am getting a 1.9V - then I turn off the radio and headlight and see if there is any gain the on the voltage. Measurement still at 1.9 to 2.0V between the + and - of the ignition coil.
I am doing doing steps you gave above and I am not done yet but I thought I point out the obvious finding.