Yet another electrical - possibly ignition challenge. Looki

[spider2081]

If you think the problem is electrical I would start at the alternator output terminal. The make sure that connection is clean and tight. The smaller of the 2 wires on the alternator output goes directly to fuse 10. Fuse 10 is jumped to fuse 9. From fuse 9 there are 2 black wires one of these wires goes through the ignition switch connector to pin 30/1 on the ignition switch. These connections are hot all the time the battery is connected. When the ignition switch is in either the run or start position power comes out of pin 15/54 of the switch through the connector to the coil. A very common problem is the spade connectors in the car side of the ignition switch connector loose their tension and make intermittent contact with the male pins on the ignition switch side of the connector. If there is any discoloration of the nylon (brownish) it is caused by a poor connection at that terminal. To correct this you need to release the spade socket from the connector. This is done by sliding in something close to the size of the small square opening in the nylon and depressing the keeper on the spade socket. the socket is then pulled out the wire side of the connector. Use a pair of pliers to tighten the spades tension. make sure you re-straighten the keeper and then push the socket back into the connector. I recommend doing each socket one at a time so not to make a mistake.
If you continue to have a problem I would connect a test light to the pink wire on the car side of the ignition switch connector and ground. as long as the light is lite you know power is getting from the alternator through the ignition switch. If it is not lite when car dies the you are loosing power before that point.

[ronfrohock]

Thank you for your descriptive post. I understand exactly what you are suggesting and I will look at this tonight when I get home if I don't get slammed by the wife and kids:).
I sincerely appreciate all of the recommendations and I will post my results.
Thanks
- Ron

[ronfrohock]

I wonder if I found the issue.....
Along the top of the engine where the spark plugs are in a line, there are two additional - what I believe to be sending units. One is in between two spark plugs on the oil filler cap side and the other is closer to the front of the engine.
The sending unit that is closer to the oil cap end of the engine has a cracked connector and I believe the wire is suspect at best.
I've been trying to search around to see what this sensor is , looking on IAP diagrams and also in my service manuel and I have not been able to find information on it.

Can anyone tell me?

[spider2081]

The senders in the center of the head between the spark plugs are temperature senders. On my 81 the one closest to the radiator is the over-temp switch that makes the temp gauge peg into the red if the car overheats. The one closest to the firewall is the temperature sensor for the temp gauge in the dash. With the wire removed from the sensor the gauge should read below 120. With the wire momentarily grounded the gauge should momentarily peg.

[ronfrohock]

Thanks Spider 2081 for your reply. I guess it's back to the drawing board....my temp gauge has not been acting up. It works as it should. I did spend some time putting around under the hood today. Looking at the wiring diagram found above, I tried to locate all of the grounds and connectors. Everything that I could find was tight and not corroded.
I did find an old duel rely in the trunk amongst a bunch of old parts and wonder if it's a clue.
I hope to take a look at the cues panel tomorrow to see if everything looks good there and also plan on making sure the ground at the battery is tight and clean.
Thanks again for your help.
- Ron

[digitech]

Replace ignition control module.

[124JOE]

get a lond screwdriver and put it on #4 injector then have some one turn it over a bit listen for clicking noises
then do #3 then #2...
3 things you need fuel spark and compresstion
no spark go straight to the ing and figure out all the wires"where they come and go"
with help from brad we figure this out
http://www.artigue.com hover on the fiat then select what you need"basic"then pinpoint it on the next page

[mhuppert4]

Like everyone has said here, check those grounds especially the FI harness on the plenum. My car was running great and then out of the blue one morning decided to stop. It would start for a couple seconds then die. Got it towed home and changed out all the big items with my spares, checked sensors and voltages. Changed the ECU and viola it started running again perfectly. Drove for 3 days, then yesterday morning driving to work lost all power and again the same starting issues. Got it back home and started wiggling all the FI harness connections when low and behold, one of the bolts holding a ground and the plenum together was a bit loose. Tightened it up and she's running like a champ! Thanks to all the knowledge available here I'm loving my Spider again!