ignition switch wiring - brown wire fix

[geert]

hello,
quick question about wiring ignition switch

about an aftermarket ignition switch with only one '30'contact for the original brown wire., 2 'int' contacts

but : is it an option to wire the extra brown wire to one of the 'int' contacts, because :

"Sounds like the car has the aftermarket ignition switch commonly sold by the vendors. The reason the INT terminal is not used, is because it is on all the time. So whatever you connect there will be on even with the key off.
This switch is configured like the pre-1972 Spiders, where you could run the wipers and the heater fan with the ignition off."
(last thing is a quote from another topic in this forum) : that should mean there is a constant contact between the '30' and the 'int' contacts, or am I wrong ?

Should be easier and probably better than putting the 2 wires on the one '30' contact ?

thanks in advance, Geert.

[kmead]

You might consider going to a load reduction relay approach. Instead of running all that current through the ignition switch, run it through a relay. This will work much better than just adding an additional power wire to the switch. Move the "load" wires off the ignition switch and onto the relay then run an exciter wire from the position the "load" wires were on to the relay so the system will behave the same way it always has.

Karl

[vandor]

Hi Geert,

You can use an ohm-meter to test continuity between the INT and 30 terminals. Take the wires off, so the rest of the car's wiring does not influence the reading.
I second the relay idea, it'll help longevity to take the load off the ignition switch contacts.

[divace73]

you have to be careful with the afermarket units, I bought one (which was rubbish) and even though I wired it the same way (mine is a 1980 FI model) it didn't work the same way.
Do the relay thing first especially the head lights. It might be worth spending the money and getting the original SIPEA (how ever it's spelt) unit

[geert]

thanks for your input

- the aftermarket switch works well, but with the Blue/black wire on the "INT" pole it's a bit weird , but no real problem, that the heater fan and the wipers function even with the key removed, and not in the 'intermediate' position. (I've read that was also so on the old spiders)

- @kmead : very interested in your suggestion, but I don't understand it.
Relay between switch and powerconsumer ( lights, fog lights, extra lights ) I understand and I did.

But the relay on the "load" site, before the power is 'divided' , I don't understand. I hope you can help me a bit further.
(or do you mean a relay for every 'out' wire after the switch ?)

- @vandor : continuity between the INT and 30 terminals with the key in every position except the 'intermediate' position

groeten, Geert.

[kmead]

- @kmead : very interested in your suggestion, but I don't understand it.
Relay between switch and powerconsumer ( lights, fog lights, extra lights ) I understand and I did.

But the relay on the "load" site, before the power is 'divided' , I don't understand. I hope you can help me a bit further.
(or do you mean a relay for every 'out' wire after the switch ?)

Yes I wasn't very clear. I would take all of the load wires off of the switch and run them off of relays. Use the ignition as the exciter for the relays. You could use a relay for the things you want to be able to run in the accessory position and then another relay for the items which should be on when the ignition is in the On position. This effectively has the ignition switch not carrying any real load (besides possibly the starter which can also be offloaded to a relay: https://sites.google.com/site/vanagonhe ... tart-relay a number of X1/9 owners have changed to this, you can make your own).

I have also created a load reduction relay arrangement which shuts off the power to non starting related items when you go to start the car:



Hope that helps

[geert]

Yes that helps, all clear now. Thanks !

groeten, Geert.