Resto of '78 124 Spider

[SanRafaelFaz]

Greetings:
I'm looking to restore my 1978 124 Spider. Bought it in new in '78,
put close to 200K on it, refreshed the engine about 40K ago, but for
the past 4 years, it has sat under a cover, untouched.
Last time she ran, she was smooth, and in need of very little
mechanically, but in dire need of an interior overhaul, and some body
work and a full paint job. My first order of business, (after a
thorough going over by my tech for leaks, seals, etc.), is to replace
both front seats. The WHOLE seats, mechanisms and all, as they are
pretty shot. Driver seat is pretty back, back no longer moves, and track is "catchy", and will occasionally break loose while I'm driving and slide all the way back. Problem is, I can only find re-upholstering material, but
no actual seat frames (runners, tracks, etc.). Any idea where I might
begin to look?
Also, eventually I want to dispose of all the smog restrictions (will
be legally registered in a Ca. county which does not require it), and
was wondering the best way to go in that regard. Headers, higher end carb and
maybe a new intake? I've already switched over from points to elec.
ignition.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

[narfire]

Try and source used bits and pieces. I was rumaging around one of the many boxes of fiat bits I have laying around the other day and noticed some seat rails... interested? from a 79 I believe.
Post in the parts wanted section here, I'm sure you won't find too much dificulty in sourcing parts. Craigs list is another source.
Chris

[SanRafaelFaz]

Try and source used bits and pieces. I was rumaging around one of the many boxes of fiat bits I have laying around the other day and noticed some seat rails... interested? from a 79 I believe.
Post in the parts wanted section here, I'm sure you won't find too much dificulty in sourcing parts. Craigs list is another source.
Chris

Thanks for the offer, Chris. I'm not quite ready yet to tackle the seats, but I will keep you in mind.

[donerehart]

I have everything hardware wise for a 76 driver seat - except for the bottom pan. It also includes the plastic covers and rails. It all works great, just took it apart because my bottom pan nut broke out. If you have a good bottom pan, you are in great shape! Let me know if you are interested.

[SanRafaelFaz]

I have everything hardware wise for a 76 driver seat - except for the bottom pan. It also includes the plastic covers and rails. It all works great, just took it apart because my bottom pan nut broke out. If you have a good bottom pan, you are in great shape! Let me know if you are interested.

Will do, thanks. I expect to get around to taking out the seats this coming weekend hopefully, and having a look around to see what exactly is the problem.

[SanRafaelFaz]

What's the consensus here regarding removal of the big fat ugly (IMO) US spec chrome tube bumpers on my '78 and replacing them with the earlier versions? Can this be done without mods?
Thanks.

[TX82FIAT]

There are a few threads on this exact topic. I had one a couple months ago. Basically there will be some fabrication required. There is a trick to removing the rear bumpoer mounts with respect to the gas tank. The front mounts are too high even with a bumper conversion kit. I recently pulled some old style 72 chrome bumpers off a car in a junk yard and decided I'm going to stay with the uglies. If your interested in the bumpers I pulled and have the patience for this mod let me know. I'll sell them to you for what i paid at the yard plus shipping. I always evaluate the time, money and look of a mod. In this case I decided the cost of a great set of old style bumpers with kit and mods for proper look was not something i was interested in. However, it is a cool look. I may go with the abarth blocks.

[SanRafaelFaz]

Update on my project:
The head gasket was blown, steering damper busted off at the mount and tie rods all pretty shot. Got the head off and had everything checked for spec. Fortunately when the gasket blew it was stopped and not driven again, so no heat damage, everything looks good. Took the carb apart and cleaned 33 years worth of gunk out of it until it looks and operates like new. Got her back together and fired her up. First crank and VAROOM! Ran perfectly, smooth high idle, and after getting warm she kicked down all by herself in a nice steady and smooth low-idle. No leaks, and ran cool at idle for 20+ minutes. Next up are new springs, shocks, steering damper, tie and connecting rods, A-arms, brake calipers to be rebuilt, new brake lines and a bit of exhaust work. As soon as she's ready to road test I'll have to have her smogged, but from what we see thus far, it should pass with few problems.
I should have her ready for the interior work in a month or so. It was like an Italian opera to hear her run again!

[SanRafaelFaz]

There are a few threads on this exact topic. I had one a couple months ago. Basically there will be some fabrication required. There is a trick to removing the rear bumpoer mounts with respect to the gas tank. The front mounts are too high even with a bumper conversion kit. I recently pulled some old style 72 chrome bumpers off a car in a junk yard and decided I'm going to stay with the uglies. If your interested in the bumpers I pulled and have the patience for this mod let me know. I'll sell them to you for what i paid at the yard plus shipping. I always evaluate the time, money and look of a mod. In this case I decided the cost of a great set of old style bumpers with kit and mods for proper look was not something i was interested in. However, it is a cool look. I may go with the abarth blocks.

I've seen the blocks, I think they would work fine. Otherwise I'll just go with a "naked" front.
About your comment re: the rear bumpers with respect to the gas tank. Not quite sure what you mean. Does the tank obstruct removal?

[SanRafaelFaz]

UPDATE:
As of last Friday my "Rosa" is back on the road.

Items addressed:
1) Head gasket replaced
2) New timing belt
3) Cleaned and adjusted carb
4) All new fluids/basic tune-up of course
5) New rear brake calipers (old ones rust frozen)!
6) Rear brake lines and a portion of the fuel line
7) New springs all around
8 ) New steering damper
9) New lower ball joints, tie rods, A-arms
10) New head pipe
11) Thermostat
12) Fan switch
13) Motor mounts
14) Re-tap all lugs in wheels as most were cross-threaded(!)
15) General re-torqing of everything, etc.
16) Smogged and registered.

She runs just shy of excellent now. I say just shy beacuse she's still a bit rough idling in the mornings, and I still need a steering box and a couple minor suspension tweaks, but once she's warmed up she is smooth as glass, sounds awsome and is reminiscent of how it felt when I first brought it home new in 1978! Everything works as per spec, even that damn obnoixious annoying buzzer(!) which I can't seem to find in order to disconnect. In fact, I'll bet that buzzer is probably the only thing that has never stopped working or needed service!

My next challenge is the interior. I need pretty much everything from a full set of OEM carpets, steering wheel, visors, top, dash and upper/lower consoles. Seats are in rough shape but I think I can save them. Frames seem OK, but the driver's side back tilt mechanism is messed up and no longer moves. I will need new foam for the bottoms (any ideas?), and then I'll either re-upholster or use high end covers. I have yet to see any replacement foam for the seat backs. Is it available? The back seat is passable in its original form and condition, all it needs is a bit of cleaning.

Final thing will be paint. Original 191 Rosso. I have a local guy (Santa Rosa, Ca.) who painted it about 20 years ago and did a better job that the factory paint. I'll probably use him again if he's still reasonable. I'll post pics one of these days.
Thanks for your on-going help, this place is the best source of info I have ever found!

[DocGraphics]

Congratulations, great to hear, you must be excited!
I just got my 78 on the road again too,this last Sunday.
2 more 78's goin again, ups our share of the market

Looks like you have done it up right, good luck on the rest.
I have most the interior & the trunk all restored on mine already & the paint is OK from 10 ft.
I will be starting on the mechanicals next. Slowly going thru it all one section at a time.
I imagine I will have a similar list as you as I am working on the same vintage Spider.

Keep us all updated & looking forward to pics?

[SanRafaelFaz]

Congratulations, great to hear, you must be excited!
I just got my 78 on the road again too,this last Sunday.
2 more 78's goin again, ups our share of the market

Looks like you have done it up right, good luck on the rest.
I have most the interior & the trunk all restored on mine already & the paint is OK from 10 ft.
I will be starting on the mechanicals next. Slowly going thru it all one section at a time.
I imagine I will have a similar list as you as I am working on the same vintage Spider.

Keep us all updated & looking forward to pics?

Thanks, and good luck to you, too! It will be interesting to compre notes.

[manoa matt]

I got all kinds of seat pieces, bottom foam, back foam, mechanisms, and a lower console too. Send me an email matt.scarton@gmail.com

[SanRafaelFaz]

My original steering wheel is cracked in two places. I suspect this is common with the resin coated wheels like those used on my '78. I have a NOS wheel, but have no idea how to remove the old one and replace the new one. For starters, how do I get the horn button off?
Then, will I need some kind of fancy and expensive "steering wheel puller" gizmo which I will only use once?

Next item: Rubber bushings on front anti-sway. One side has slipped out. Looks a bit ragged but I think it will still function until I get around to doing them all. Can I simply loosen the bracket under which this bushing lives and shove it back in, then re-tighten?

TIA as usual!

[DocGraphics]

The horn button comes off by slipping a blade or thin screwdriver under the retainer ring @ the metal spoke area then pry it up carefully to pop it off & then the wheel is held on by a big nut, 15/16" socket works great, then wiggle the wheel off off.