1982 124 Spider No Spark

[82spider]

Been a few years since I logged in. Our spider started having an intermittent starting problem last season.
In the a.m.,you'd hear the fuel pump run when the key was switched on, and then it would fire up no problem.
After arriving at a destination and shutting down, it would become difficult to restart, sometimes requiring multiple attempts twisting the key to hear the pump cycle on again.

Over the winter the car sat. Now there is only endless cranking and no start up. Spark is not there.

If this is an ignition switch issue, can I test it by simply buying a second switch and plugging into the harness, or does the switch have to be properly installed/mounted to function? Dual relay as well?

I've read over a few posts and checked the inline fuses behind the fuse block. They are good.
This car has only 18k and was a rescue mission. Spent all of it's life in dry storage.
http://upwiththemachine.com/FIATSPIDER2 ... ATION.html

Any help appreciated!
Thanks-

[So Cal Mark]

couple of issues here
first, the pump shouldn't run unless the engine is turning. The flap in the AFM has to move to activate the fuel pump. The AFM switch may be misadjusted or someone may have tweaked the wiring around the dual relay.
You can plug another switch in, no need to mount it.
The pump may have gotten stuck from fuel varnish if it has sat for awhile.
You're gonna need a test light at the very minimum to troubleshoot this issue

[82spider]

Shouldn't the pump pressurize the system when the key is turned? That was what I was referring to.
The wiring is all original. No-one has been under the dash before. I've got a multi-tester.
Thanks-

[124JOE]

test the coil to see if it has 12v when key is on
2nd test the ignition to see if its giving 12v to the coil
if you belive its the pump then turn it over and spray starting fluid to make it run for a short while
if you have power at the coil and no spark then you have a bad coil
undo the cap and inspect for corotion,check wires for burnt spots,
and plugs for deterioration

HOPE THIS HELPS

[rlux4]

Our system doesn't build up the fuel pressure when you turn the key on. The fuel pump has a check valve so the pressure should hold. As Mark said, the fuel pump runs whenever the flap in the AFM is open, this is when the engine is turning over. The intake of air opens the flap, this closes a contact in the AFM which sends a signal to the dual relay, which has gotten 12V from the ignition switch and sends the 12V to the fuel pump.
To check if the AFM is working correctly, pry the black lid off the top. To the upper right of the sweep arm you'll see a curved, chrome arm. It acts like a set of points, the contact end should be open with the engine off. Crank the engine, the contact should close. If this is working correctly, test the positive wire at the fuel pump (green with a black stripe) to see if the 12V has gotten there from the dual relay.
You're lucky, in most cases when someone has a fuel pump that comes on when the key is turned to "on" then someone has bypassed the original wiring and it can be a pain to find out where, or to get the wiring back to original.
Ron

[82spider]

Thanks everyone-

I got the spider out of storage and into my garage.
18k on the odometer, my relatives never spun a wrench on it.
Some of the turn signal/headlamp wires were disconnected during resto, but that's it.
Ran fine for about 1000 miles when the intermittent starting problem arose.

Pulled the OEM (?) Bosch plugs, they smell like stale gas, so maybe fuel is not part of the issue.

Installed new plugs, spun it over with starting fluid in the throttle body - nothing.

Pulled the coil cover, key on, fluctuating readings on the + side, none higher than 2.7 volts.
Dropped off after testing a few times. Same readings when spun over.

Big yellow warning label saying not to ground the coil directly. What is the proper procedure?

[wikkid]

Service manual's electrical section has very clear instructions for testing of various components of the ignition system, starting on or around page 55-19. These include checks for primary input check, ground check and coil resistance check, among others.

HTH.

[82spider]

Update:

I bought an ignition switch, and the car fired up - but - the ignition switch is a POS to put it mildly.
Does not fit the receiver. Does not disengage power when in the OFF position. Key nearly broke off already.
Looks like Russian origin?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWNX%3AIT


Disconnected the fuel line past the filter and purged the gas. Fired it up and took a long drive. Still does not like to hot start; is there a temp sensor/relay to look after, or could it be just bad gas?


Thanks.

[rlux4]

Sure: yourself.
Here's a very good turtorial on the procedure.
http://www.mirafiori.com/faq/content/switch/index.html
If you think your original is shot anyway, it couldn't hurt to give it a shot.
Ron

[82spider]

Thanks. I just got a used OEM one.
Here's a link to the bad one. It is worthless.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWNX%3AIT