I drive a 1980 Fuel Injected Spider 2000 if that helps.
Starter Romoval
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RMadden
Starter Romoval
So I am in the progress of trying to remove my starter and am having quite a bit of trouble. I was able to get the very bottom screw out with ease, but the remaining two are causing me some headaches. Any info I should know, tools to use and parts to remove to make the job easier? I don't have a lot of equipment or money, I'm a high school senior, but any help would be appreciated. Hopefully I hear from you all soon and can get my baby back on the road
I drive a 1980 Fuel Injected Spider 2000 if that helps.
I drive a 1980 Fuel Injected Spider 2000 if that helps.
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TulsaSpider
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:33 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Spyder 124 2L
- Location: Tulsa, Ok
Re: Starter Romoval
extensions and swivels!
1978 Spyder 1800 make that 2L! Finally making real progress!
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TulsaSpider
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:33 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Spyder 124 2L
- Location: Tulsa, Ok
Re: Starter Romoval
Sorry. I have not done it on the car! But I have read about it!
1978 Spyder 1800 make that 2L! Finally making real progress!
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adrians
- Posts: 851
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:07 am
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider Turbo - missing the turbo
- Location: Sydney - Australia
Re: Starter Romoval
2 of the 30cm extensions and 2 swivels, brings the rachet all the way out along the side of the motor.
EDIT - Apologies - I meant the gearbox not the motor.
EDIT - Apologies - I meant the gearbox not the motor.
Last edited by adrians on Tue Apr 26, 2011 5:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
THE FLEET
2014 Abarth "SS"
1981 Spider 2000 (Legend Industries Turbo - minus the Turbo)
1978 X1/9 1.3 Dual IDF 40's, Coupe Cam, Allison Header/Exhaust
1971 128 Sedan 1100cc, Coupe Cam/Headers
Motokhana Special 127 rear engined Rail 903cc
2014 Abarth "SS"
1981 Spider 2000 (Legend Industries Turbo - minus the Turbo)
1978 X1/9 1.3 Dual IDF 40's, Coupe Cam, Allison Header/Exhaust
1971 128 Sedan 1100cc, Coupe Cam/Headers
Motokhana Special 127 rear engined Rail 903cc
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narfire
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
- Location: Naramata B.C.
Re: Starter Romoval
You will be under the car and the ratchet will be somewheres near the back end of the tranny. As mentioned, extensions that will give you the length to get a good angle on the bolts. I believe I managed with one universal on the extension,but regardless it is a fiddly thing to do.
Good luck and once you have done it a few times, the starter is not that awkward to remove.
Chris
Good luck and once you have done it a few times, the starter is not that awkward to remove.
Chris
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
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RMadden
Re: Starter Romoval
I think I need more than luck haha. I spent a good hour and a half trying to get that second bolt off, but to no avail. I decided to call it a night, re-attach the first bolt and battery cable, and see if I could still roll start it. Even more bad news.. As soon as I turn the key and the fuel pump kicks on, my intake manifold/hoses connecting to the manifold begin to drip and leak fuel! 
I was hoping to get it to my school's auto shop, so I could use better equipment, but now that really isn't an option unless I get it towed. Just one thing after another...
I was hoping to get it to my school's auto shop, so I could use better equipment, but now that really isn't an option unless I get it towed. Just one thing after another...
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paulw106
Re: Starter Romoval
Just to add to the mix on this, I've just swapped out my stater and here is what I had to completely get it out of the car:
1 - Remove the two easy bolts on the starter.
2 - After reading a few other message boards and posts on here I elected for the drop the back of the gearbox method, as I have an auto box I had even less room to get to the top bolt than manual boxes. Basically you loosen the two gearbox cross member support bolt as far as you can without removing them completely, then slack off the two engine mount bolts slightly. I then jacked the front of the engine very slightly to with a block of wood under the edge of the sump pan (and I do mean slightly, just enough to tip the engine and box back 1/2 an inch. This just gave me the extra room I needed to get a socket on the end of the top starter bolt, as other people have mentioned you'll need at least one if not two universal adapters and a couple of extension bars to get to it. I ended up using a socket with an universal a shortish ext bar then another adapter and an 18" extension. I am not saying I am right here it just worked for me.
Once you've got the bolt out (which I thought was the hard part) the real fun started for me, I found that I couldn't get the starter out no mater how I turned and twisted it. In the end I did the following.
3 - removed the mechanical fuel pump under the manifold, you won't have this problem if you have an electric fuel pump.
4 - remove the alternator and support bracket. Be careful here as the support bracket sits on a stud in the engine block that goes right through to the water jacket (and yes I found this out the hard way).
One the fuel pump, alternator and bracket were out I found it relatively easy to get the starter out and back in again, although removing the wires from the back was a bit of a pain.
This might sound a lot of faffing about but I really did find it helped me to get the starter out and took surprisingly little time compared to the couple of hours I spent trying to figure out how to get the damned thing out without taking anything else off.
I'm not saying it's the easiest way but it worked for me, now watch someone tell me there is a real quick and easy way to swap that starter out!
hope this helps.
Cheers,
Paul
1 - Remove the two easy bolts on the starter.
2 - After reading a few other message boards and posts on here I elected for the drop the back of the gearbox method, as I have an auto box I had even less room to get to the top bolt than manual boxes. Basically you loosen the two gearbox cross member support bolt as far as you can without removing them completely, then slack off the two engine mount bolts slightly. I then jacked the front of the engine very slightly to with a block of wood under the edge of the sump pan (and I do mean slightly, just enough to tip the engine and box back 1/2 an inch. This just gave me the extra room I needed to get a socket on the end of the top starter bolt, as other people have mentioned you'll need at least one if not two universal adapters and a couple of extension bars to get to it. I ended up using a socket with an universal a shortish ext bar then another adapter and an 18" extension. I am not saying I am right here it just worked for me.
Once you've got the bolt out (which I thought was the hard part) the real fun started for me, I found that I couldn't get the starter out no mater how I turned and twisted it. In the end I did the following.
3 - removed the mechanical fuel pump under the manifold, you won't have this problem if you have an electric fuel pump.
4 - remove the alternator and support bracket. Be careful here as the support bracket sits on a stud in the engine block that goes right through to the water jacket (and yes I found this out the hard way).
One the fuel pump, alternator and bracket were out I found it relatively easy to get the starter out and back in again, although removing the wires from the back was a bit of a pain.
This might sound a lot of faffing about but I really did find it helped me to get the starter out and took surprisingly little time compared to the couple of hours I spent trying to figure out how to get the damned thing out without taking anything else off.
I'm not saying it's the easiest way but it worked for me, now watch someone tell me there is a real quick and easy way to swap that starter out!
hope this helps.
Cheers,
Paul
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RMadden
Re: Starter Romoval
Thank you all so much for your help I was able to get the starter out, and surprisingly the third bolt was the easy one. The second was the bugger. My part should be in soon and hopefully the installation goes well
I was able to get the starter out, and surprisingly the third bolt was the easy one. The second was the bugger. My part should be in soon and hopefully the installation goes well