Fuel Injector Issues - 1980 Spider 2000

[Spiderman80]

Anyone have a good thread, diagram, or video showing the best way to remove the fuel rail and the injectors on a 1980 Bosch Injected Spider 2000? Also, could use some guidance as to how best to connect a fuel pressure gauge...

[RRoller123]

First note:

Test the Fuel Pressure NOW, before you take all this out, work on it, and then reinstall it, only to find that there may be a problem with the Fuel Pressure Regulator. The CSI is where you want to install a Fuel Pressure gauge, with a "T" fitting. The "T" fitting sits on the line supplying the CSI from the Fuel Rail. [NOTE: FI fuel pressure gauges read HIGHER (up to ~40psi) versus the mechanical pump/carb FP gauges (up to maybe only ~5psi), make sure you have the right one].


Working from memory:

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!

Remove the hose from the CSI. WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES. As you remove the line, do it while a disposable rag is wrapped fully around it to collect any gas that may spray out, depending upon how much pressure remains in the Fuel Rail system. It can spray with surprising force and distance, but the volume is small once the pressure is broken, like a couple of teaspoons. I remove the line by pulling down on the end at the CSI. It can be a bugger to get off if it has been on there a long time. A 5mm ball end Allen wrench will get the CSI nuts out so you can pull the still connected CSI and manipulate it more easily out in the open air. I had to cut the CSI supply line off the first time I removed the Fuel Rail.

Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the Fuel Rail. I find that a bolt snuggly fit into the open end keeps gas from running out. The lines can be propped up against something else in the engine compartment to keep the ends up high enough to stop dripping. Maybe mark which is which on some tape, unless their position makes it obvious.

Remove the vacuum lines attached to the rail.

(Taking the rail and injectors out as one unit):

Leave all the Injector fuel line hose clamps untouched.

Loosen the hold down clamps that hold the injectors in place in the Manifold, The nuts are small, like 8mm or something like that, threaded onto stud in Manifold. (1) plate and nut per Injector. You get at them from underneath, with a lot of contortion of wrist and hands. Remove these nuts and washers etc. Curse and crawl around on the ground for a few minutes trying to find the 1 or 2 that fall below. I replaced everything with S.S. when re-assembling.

NOTE: When reinstalling all of this, pay a lot of attention to the exact desired rotational positioning of the clamps, so that every one of them (8 total) can be more easily accessed by the screwdriver. (I replaced all the stock friction type clamps with FI hose and clamps from AR)

Wiggle the hold down plates at each Injector, to loosen them in case they are bound. They are roughly egg-shaped sheet metal pieces. Lift them slightly off the studs, as far as they will go at this time, which is just a little.

Remove the Mounting bolt at the center of the Fuel Rail, at the integral Pressure Regulator that holds the Rail to the Intake Manifold. (10mm?)

Everything is now mechanically disconnected.

Reach in and wiggle each injector while pulling it straight back and out. Once each is loose, the entire Fuel Rail and Injector assembly should pull out.

While it is out, it can be cleaned and painted pretty easily by masking and spraying. I used rattle can self etching primer, and rattle can silver ceramic engine paint.

Hope that helps!

Pete

[Spiderman80]

Pete,

You are awesome!!! I'm learning on the job and many thanks for helping... I'll post some photos and give an update after I sort through all of this. I've been through hell with this little car, and my wife and kids still don't understand the obsession, but love is love!!!

Thanks again!

Brad

[RRoller123]

Ah, you are most welcome. These little cars can be very irritating at times (as many here will know from my ramblings on occasion ), but in the end, it is worth it when whatever the task is, it gets done, and you drive around in a pretty rare and fun little beastie.

Pete

[RRoller123]

I did forget a few things: There are 2 sealing rings on each Injector; They are heavy black plastic . There is a large outer one that holds the overall position of the Injector, and a smaller inner one that positions the tip in the Intake. The larger ones will probably stay in place on the injector when you pull the rail assembly, but a couple of the smaller ones are sure to fly off and roll into the most inaccessible corner of the shop.

If it hasn't been done, or is unknown, or performance is poor, getting the Injectors cleaned is a great maintenance item. I use OK Injectors, but there are many good services out there. Get the CSI done at the same time as a package service. The Sealing rings are available from the usual suppliers, I use AR.

[Spiderman80]

Pete, I got a little delayed on testing my Fuel Pressure, but did get 40 PSI, so pump, etc seem to be good. Now I guess it's time to pull the injectors. Is it me, or do I need to remove some stuff before I pull the fuel rail? I can barely see, let alone touch, the fourth injector. I certainly don't want to take out more than I have to, but man this is some tiny space, and I got some big meat hooks! Ideas?? Encouragement??

-Brad

[RRoller123]

It is tough to get at all the hardware, but with some patience it can be done! You have to pull just a few vacuum hoses, etc.

Pete

[Spiderman80]

Well gents... You did it! Many thanks for the guidance and input. I got her started and she sounds purrrrfect!

Here's a photo of what I'm fighting for:

/Users/bradbodine/Desktop/Scarsdale - Greenacres - Montrose Rd, April 24, 2017/IMG_1567.jpg