We have had a lot of help and good advice from many folks very knowledgeable in FI trying to solve this issue. We have had three sets of cams in there, two different heads, two differeent exhaust headers, different sized injectors/fuel pressure combos, three intake manifolds, including a sweet custoom version from Mark that tilted the TBs 22.5 degrees (won't work on IDFs - damn!), chased dozens of potential electrical issues, and made over 185 dyno runs (and used two dynos to compare!), and did at least 10 disassemblies to carefulyl and painstakingly measure and record every change - all of which were done one at a time in the last 17 months. And lets not forget the hundreds of hours doing over the road tuning using at least three different wideband sensors refinements .
The fact is, we never got it to make power past 6000 rpms, and it never really ran smoothly. I firmly believe that when you get into performance cams (40/80 or stronger) and TBs, the number of variables is infinite, and while you can get a TC to make decent power and run reasonably smooth if you are happy spending the time programming, the cost vs benefit is way out of wack, and I am not convinced -
dyno verified -that you will ever get all the potential out of your motor. I have spoken to a lot of helpful souls, and they all seem to hit that 6000 rpm wall, and what I hear too often is "....I have it running real well, but there is this little flat spot, or this electrical issue, etc. And I learned form the over 185 dyno runs that when you think you are making really good power because it is reasonably smooth and revs to 7000 rpms OK, you probably are about 20 HP shy from what you think the power is.
We got slapped the IDFs on (only change from the last run), got about 144 RWHP, and hadn't even ported the manifold, and the jetting was way off. I managed to improve the AFR ratio a bit by playing with floats, etc, and it truly screams to 7500 rpms. When we port it and get it jetted correctly, we'll be back to the dyno and report again. My guess it will be an honest, dyno'd with zero correction 148-152 RWHP.
My take after this very painful experiment is that you should spend your money on all the things that make your engine more powerful (porting, headers, cams, CR lightening, balancing, rods, etc), not on the expense of TBs, management systems and custom pieces that come with a conversion, and put on a set of 40 or 44mm IDFs and have a very powerful, smooth running motor you can drive and enjoy.
BTW, the TBs, intake system, manifold and headers are all for sale.
